So in trying to narrow this down, with all the codes that's coming up would you recommend trying another PCM to see if this could be the source of the trouble?

 

You could try, but I suspect there might actually be a problem somewhere.

 

would a PCM from a 4.9L Standard transmission, work with a 4.9L Automatic Transmission? Also I was talking to a friend of mine who has a 95 Ford F150 with a V8 in it with the exact same symptoms as mine

 

It will only work if you have an AOD or C6 transmission.
It will not work with a electric shift transmission (4R70W or E4OD).

 

with that being said, will a PCM from a 95 F150 V8 with an E4OD transmission work in a 95 F150 4.9L with an E4OD transmission?

 

No because the computer would get the wrong PIP id of engine position. Also the V8 and the 4.9L have different pound injectors and the mix would be rich.
You did not say the engine size of the V8 but with a E4OD it is more than likely a 351 so it would also be MAP and not MASS.

 

Have you pulled the computer for inspection yet?

You have a couple trouble codes that fit symptoms and match your description of how its running, nothing definitive suggesting its the computer at this point especially if it has been consistent in its returns.

You describe it as, " When going uphill it seems to be cutting in and out on the cylinders. very low power"

Which is exactly what the computer has to say about it. Missfires to the degree you describe could and easily would cause a rich condition, up hill giving it more and more fuel trying to maintain speed fuel that isn't getting burnt sent down the pipe.

You go on to say, "the check engine light came on"

Which is exactly what the computer should have done when the EGR system failed.
A couple of quick tests would verify that as true or false easy enough.

Knock sensor error you can toss it out at least for now.

The computer returned a system pass for the self test, a good sign.

Yea it might be the computer and I'd take a few minutes to pull it to look, lack of any obvious problem there I'd look to the distributor, the PIP in it as a possible cause of the problem.

Replacing the pip might very well correct the main problem in a single step.

 

Deleted, posted in wrong thread.

 

So what kind of test would I have to do to check for a bad PIP sensor and EGR valve system failure. One other thing when the connector to the coil would get wet it would operate very poorly or cut right out so I sealed it with silicone, should I check this connector again too? What would cause a truck to stall out when it's under load or if the tires are spinning on ice?

 

As for the EGR you can unscrew the large tube at the bottom and drop a penny in and screw it back on but not to tight to mess up the flare.

The only test for a working PIP is the code in CM. For a non running engine there a few but they do not apply here.

The PIP sensor would cause a truck to stall out when it's under load or if the tires are spinning on ice. But then if it does not start back up then you can test the PIP.
You could then watch this video for how to do that.

/

 

Testing the EGR system for 332 opening not detected, couple simple tests.

(takes longer to explain it than doing it)

Take a section of wire and connect one end to the negative battery post.
With the engine running at idle touch the other end to the EVR terminal with the BRN-PNK wire on it. You'll have to back probe the wire connector to do it so it retains power supply.

The engine should stumble and or stall depending on how long you provide the ground path holding it open.
Jumping a ground to that wire at the evr is a quick way to test the system as a whole.

Shows the EGR valve isn't stuck the EVR funtions if everything is as it should be.
If so then points to the computer or its connection with the EVR as cause of the problem.

If doing that doesn't cause the motor to stumble then connect a hose directly to the EGR valve, create vacuum on that hose engine at idle, you can connect it to a vacuum tap on the intake if you don't own a handy vac. The engine should stumble or stall depending on the amount of vacuum applied to the valve.

If applying vac directly to the EGR valve has no effect then either the valve is froze up and can't move or its vacuum diaphragm is ruptured.

If it stalls the EGR valve is free and functional, verify it will "hold" a vacuum that its diaphragm isn't leaking. A handy vac is ...well.... handy for some of these tests.

From there move on to the vacuum lines, remove the vac supply line from the EVR and verify it has engine vac to it. If not correct the problem, same with the vac line from the EVR to the EGR valve, make sure they are not leaking.

If your truck still has those plastic vacuum lines they would be suspect, they snap very easily especially when cold so check them carefully, better option replace all of it with new rubber vac line.

That gives you a couple of quick tests to begin to narrow down a issue with the EGR system, important thing and idea behind Subfords post is to make sure the valve is fully closed. For the time being it stays that way while you address more pressing issues. A frozen in place fully closed EGR valve isn't in anyway causing you grief.

Broken plastic vacuum lines on the other hand...

 

I just watched the video from subford, thank you by the way. There were some great tips I gathered from it. I will perform the test on mine. However it also raises some questions. I may not be understanding this right, but from what I gathered from the video, this truck did NOT start at all, which lead to the PIP sensor having to be replaced. But my truck starts and idles good. It's the loss of power under load I have trouble with. Could this still be sourced to the PIP sensor? If so the video I watched doesn't provide any info on it. Also inside the distributor there is a metal ring with tabs that pass through the magnet of the PIP sensor. If those are corroded or rusty could it cause it not to get full connection? Sorry to bother so much, I just want to make sure I'm on the right path before sinking money into parts I don't need.

 

As I said above the video only applies if the engine dies and does not restart.
Other than that there no test I know of for a PIP sensor when the engine is running to see if it is bad or not.

I do not think a corroded or rusty rotary vane cup would cause any problems. You might check for a floppy drive shaft as if the drive shaft bushings are wore the PIP sensor may miss a beat or two.

 

Thanks for the advice, it's starting to make some sense now. I remember that I had to change out my distributor cause the screws for the cap had broken. I took this distributor from another truck with a 4.9L inline six, so it could very well be worn. Also DANR1 had mentioned that the EGR valve could also make the truck stall. There were some test to check to see if it's bad or weak. But would this contribute to engine loss under load or am I still going in the direction of the PIP sensor

 

If the EGR valve remains open at idle the engine will die or run very ruff. Also if the EGR valve remains open at WOT or pulling a load or hill you will have less power.
The EGR vlave is only to be open during mid throttle at a steady highway speed.
As I said in a post above you could just drop a penny it the tube to block the EGR flow off for a test.
Note the penny will go away if you leave it in there.