1988 f150 10in suspension 3 in body lift got it cheap an wanted another project truck even tho everyone said it's a money pit





Truck is a 88 but I think it's a 90 302 88 rotary button didn't work 90 did tho no clue if it's a roller engine or what anyone help figuring it out would be awesome first ford and willing to learn all I can don't have anyone but me working on it but me any advice will help me out alot

After getting it I realized it has a gas leak front tank doesn't work transfer case leaks also battery will start fine but I can kill it an fire it right back up an it acts dead as he'll let it sit for a minute then will fire right up? 4 speed tranny leaks motor leaked so I fixed the tranny and got value cover gaskets for it let it run before i started on it to charge the battery an build fuel up two days later got it done did a side at a time an made sure I didn't skip anything putting it back together tried to start it batt was dead so jumped it first few licks were fast then acted as the batt was dead i didn't worry about it at the time just figured the coil wasn't getting spark cause when taking coil wire off the spark pug cap came off with it so I replaced the coil with a super accel coil still wouldn't start thought it might be the starter relay solenoid an distributor module both accel still no start same thing as before couple quick turns then sluggish got the battery tested an came back bad I guess from sitting so I got another one but haven't made it out to put it on yet just looking for some advice idk if the battery will fix it but would like to find out if the timing is advanced where it wouldn't start back after Getting fuel heard it might be and would like to know the firing order any advice would help me out!

 

Ok, first things first...

Need to use punctuation where and when needed. Some of your description runs into walls when trying to decipher what you describe.

Next, what firing order are you running?

You need to have the ICM module tested before assuming it's dead.
There is also NO benefit to running anything aftermarket for igntion purposes. You probably didn't know, and that's ok.

Have you checked fuel psi?
What type of spark do you have or do you have spark period?
If no spark, remove the SPOUT connector and see if spark returns.

Next, using a noid light, see if the injector's are firing. If they aren't firing, then you have to determine why.

 

Sorry about that.
Yes I'm getting spark.
Haven't checked the fuel psi, but I did push the value steam core with a screw driver and gas shot out, after turning it over I repeated the following an fuel shot out, so I know fuel is building up in the fuel rail.
I had the battery tested an it only held 100 amps or something like that so I got a new 650 cold cranking amp battery.
I'm hoping the battery was the problem, I didn't know if the battery would could cause it to be sluggish when starting even with jumper cables hooked up with a running vehicle..?
The firing order I first had was
1.) -1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8- (since trying to start it)
While I was saving for a batt I found this firing order
2.)-1 5 4 2 6 3 7 8- (now)
It's now plugged up like that, but haven't had a clear day to hook new battery up an try it.
The first firing order is for a 351 I think.
The little chip between the air conditioner pump and distributor that says ECC or something like that how do you rest that? someone said my computer could be reading wrong??

I've always had carbed Chevys this is my first ford an only efi I've had to work on and it's only turned into a puzzle, thanks for helping!

 

Now that is a LOUD truck... sure wouldn't lose it in a snow bank.

I think you will find the 15426378 firing order is the correct one because I think you have a 5.0 in there.. the squared off intake runners are a give away. Sorry about your luck there because that truck needs a 5.8L or 7.5L.

What you need to do with an EFI motor is use the diagnostic tools it provides, which in this case means pull the codes. On this vintage truck there will be an EEC TEST connector over by the drivers side hood hinge either clipped to the rear side of the airbox or laying on the inner fender. If you put a jumper(paperclip) between the STI an SIG_RTN pins on this connector and turn the key to run(don't start engine), codes will flash on the check engine light. Here is a link showing the connector and how to pull codes. Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines You may want to make your life easier however and just buy a code reader, the Equus/Innova 3145 does a good job and only costs about $20. Pulling the codes will go a long way to determining if all the wiring is correct.. a good thing considering this truck had a recent engine swap, and note you will get codes for various engine temp sensors unless the engine is brought up to operating temp first, so you can do the test on a cold engine but you will probably want to ignore codes for those sensors at that time.

 

I would also suggest replacing both battery cables with new quality pieces. this alone can make a world of difference and help keep the new battery operating properly.

do as Conanski said and gather as much info from the ecu as you can. report back and we can go from there.

FYI, The TTB rigs only had an 8" lift max kit out there. nothing in the 10" range not that we need to worry about that now but at some point the suspension scenario will need to be fully understood and possibly reworked