Another Warm Start Issue: need help
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Another Warm Start Issue: need help
Hey guys,
I've ran searches on this, all week and can't really come to any closure.
My engine will crank over and start when cold. Fires right up. After I let it warm up for 10-15 minutes, then shut it off, it won't start back up.
I have a 92 5.0HO engine out of a stang. It's been transplanted in my 73 Bronco.
I have replaced the ECT, ACT, TFI, and coil. I'm getting 40 PSI at the shrader. I just replaced these items last night. Do I need to reset my ECU, or something? Is that thing intelligent enough to tell the engine not to fire up at the injectors? Reason I'm asking is because my spark is good. Fuel is good up to the shrader valve. I never ran any codes because I don't have a reader for it. The old ECT was a little beat up, but the ACT was pretty badly gunked with old oil and what-not. The TFI (hoping that's the right term for the ignition module on the dizzy) was replaced because someone told me to use dielectric grease on it. Come to find out I needed a heatsink compound. Just to be safe, I replaced it too. Only thing I can think of is that maybe I should have reset the ECU. The thing wouldn't fire up... even 4 hours later.
Thanks for any/all input you provide, in advance!
R,
Leo
I've ran searches on this, all week and can't really come to any closure.
My engine will crank over and start when cold. Fires right up. After I let it warm up for 10-15 minutes, then shut it off, it won't start back up.
I have a 92 5.0HO engine out of a stang. It's been transplanted in my 73 Bronco.
I have replaced the ECT, ACT, TFI, and coil. I'm getting 40 PSI at the shrader. I just replaced these items last night. Do I need to reset my ECU, or something? Is that thing intelligent enough to tell the engine not to fire up at the injectors? Reason I'm asking is because my spark is good. Fuel is good up to the shrader valve. I never ran any codes because I don't have a reader for it. The old ECT was a little beat up, but the ACT was pretty badly gunked with old oil and what-not. The TFI (hoping that's the right term for the ignition module on the dizzy) was replaced because someone told me to use dielectric grease on it. Come to find out I needed a heatsink compound. Just to be safe, I replaced it too. Only thing I can think of is that maybe I should have reset the ECU. The thing wouldn't fire up... even 4 hours later.
Thanks for any/all input you provide, in advance!
R,
Leo
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
So, today I went and bought one of them Actron cheapo ford vehicle scanners. It was like 30 bucks at a local parts store. I tried to do a KOEO test, and it didn't give me any codes. I could here some stuff clicking, but then everything just went silent. I'm really at a loss here.
It started up just fine again when the engine sat overnight. I timed it again, just to make 100% sure. I'm 10* BTDC per the specs for us EB guys. I'm using one of Ryan's EFI harnesses (www.fordfuelinjection.com) for EB engine swaps. I checked my voltage at the battery, and I'm over 12V regularly (new battery).
My ground from the solenoid and my ground from the ECU is on the back bolt of the upper intake plenum. Do you think this might be causing my problems? Should I put the ground for the batt. solenoid somewhere further down the block? If the ECU isn't kicking codes, the only thing I can think of is the ground somewhere. Or, maybe one of the relays on Ryans EFI harness is fried. Does anyone know how to test a relay with a test light, or multimeter? Any help with this would be highly appreciated.
Oh, and I did spray a little carb cleaner in the TB to see if I was fuel starved. Nope... not the issue. I'm pretty sure it's electrical in some nature at this point.
It started up just fine again when the engine sat overnight. I timed it again, just to make 100% sure. I'm 10* BTDC per the specs for us EB guys. I'm using one of Ryan's EFI harnesses (www.fordfuelinjection.com) for EB engine swaps. I checked my voltage at the battery, and I'm over 12V regularly (new battery).
My ground from the solenoid and my ground from the ECU is on the back bolt of the upper intake plenum. Do you think this might be causing my problems? Should I put the ground for the batt. solenoid somewhere further down the block? If the ECU isn't kicking codes, the only thing I can think of is the ground somewhere. Or, maybe one of the relays on Ryans EFI harness is fried. Does anyone know how to test a relay with a test light, or multimeter? Any help with this would be highly appreciated.
Oh, and I did spray a little carb cleaner in the TB to see if I was fuel starved. Nope... not the issue. I'm pretty sure it's electrical in some nature at this point.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MN_Andy
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
7
Jul 24, 2017 05:20 AM
ExPACamper
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
34
Aug 24, 2016 08:15 PM
Coresair
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
33
Jun 22, 2016 06:00 AM
chance.5e
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
18
Oct 1, 2015 08:53 AM
