Death wobble!!!
.... anyway so it started about 3 days agao. it drives fine for the most part but when im not expecting it its starts shaking (not sure if side to side or up and down). what could cause this??? ive already posted about my camber problems i have, but only iun reverse
. i was told on here that that is just a trait of my twin "i" beram but idk... i think the design is junk personally
Also check is the pivot beam bushings. If they're shot, it could throw off the caster enough to cause DW...
Get an angle finder and determine what your caster angle is for both sides.
it would drive great and then every once in a while it would start shaking I would have to almost come to a complete stop.Some of my bolts was coming loose.
Jack up the front end and have a buddy wiggle the tires real hard see if your brackets move at all
Also check is the pivot beam bushings. If they're shot, it could throw off the caster enough to cause DW...
Get an angle finder and determine what your caster angle is for both sides.
it would drive great and then every once in a while it would start shaking I would have to almost come to a complete stop.Some of my bolts was coming loose.
Jack up the front end and have a buddy wiggle the tires real hard see if your brackets move at all
I think I got screwed over. I paid $450 for a D44 complete with arms, coil buckets, etc. except the track bar had been cut off so unusable without modification. I was probably going to need a custom one anyways but still. It was 3:55 already so it matched my stock rear end which was the main plus and the only d44 I found around here in 4 months of searching. Then I saw a complete front D44 with the 9 inch rear a couple months later but it wasn't as high a gear ratio as 3:55 but he was only asking $300 for both. I don't know. At least the one I bought had the top of the line mile marker hubs (the chrome ones with chrome centers) and ball joints looked somewhat newer and the rubber on them were good so maybe I didn't come out as bad as I think I did. Its sitting in a barn right now so I can only hope none of the livestock have messed it up but its a hunk of metal in the corner so I think I will be fine.
Look on craigslist. If you live in the city look outside of the metropolitan area where these obs fords are more commonly found on the road. I live in Dallas and ended up having to drive an hour south to Ennis to get mine.
Good luck. A SAS is not a cheap option to fix your issue. You will need at least a 4 inch lift to make it fit and generally it costs around 1-2K to complete.
If I was you I would call around and find an alignment shop that still works on these (I ended up going to a 18 wheeler alignment shop, they even cold bended my i beams) and have them check it out. Or do what the other member suggested and get it up in the air and just start shaking stuff and inspecting. Also when the truck is off. Move the steering wheel left and right pretty hard to see how the pivot beam bushings are holding up. If it moves a good bit left and right your in for a world of fun.
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ok i will be sure to look at that, thanks
You likely won't notice them until you get the bracket off. The forward facing bolts tend to loosen over time, as mentioned already, and causes excess leverage on the inner bolts (facing the oil pan) and can cause cracks to develop there. But, gotta remove the bracket first. Hopefully the nuts are just a bit loose, and tightening them will fix it. If they are just loose, either stake the nuts or use some red loctite to keep them from loosening again.
The bracket can be found by following the driver-side beam to its pivot location on the passenger side of the crossmember. Look at the pic above.
Solid axle swaps are a whole different topic, with a lot of different opinions and options. I would only go this route if you were absolutely sure you wanted a solid axle. Luckily, they can be found almost anywhere. Junk yards may still have some, or get on CL or check any of the 4x4 forums for-sale sections. Mine came from VA, and I had it shipped to Dallas. 200 for the axle, and 200 for the ride, but it was my only option at the time, after nearly a year of searching for one...
FSB's SAS section has everything you'll ever need to know regarding the swap. Broncos and F150s are virtually idential regarding this swap, so everything regarding a Bronco is applicable to the F150 as well...
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I think I got screwed over. I paid $450 for a D44 complete with arms, coil buckets, etc. except the track bar had been cut off so unusable without modification. I was probably going to need a custom one anyways but still. It was 3:55 already so it matched my stock rear end which was the main plus and the only d44 I found around here in 4 months of searching. Then I saw a complete front D44 with the 9 inch rear a couple months later but it wasn't as high a gear ratio as 3:55 but he was only asking $300 for both. I don't know. At least the one I bought had the top of the line mile marker hubs (the chrome ones with chrome centers) and ball joints looked somewhat newer and the rubber on them were good so maybe I didn't come out as bad as I think I did. Its sitting in a barn right now so I can only hope none of the livestock have messed it up but its a hunk of metal in the corner so I think I will be fine.
Look on craigslist. If you live in the city look outside of the metropolitan area where these obs fords are more commonly found on the road. I live in Dallas and ended up having to drive an hour south to Ennis to get mine.
Good luck. A SAS is not a cheap option to fix your issue. You will need at least a 4 inch lift to make it fit and generally it costs around 1-2K to complete.
If I was you I would call around and find an alignment shop that still works on these (I ended up going to a 18 wheeler alignment shop, they even cold bended my i beams) and have them check it out. Or do what the other member suggested and get it up in the air and just start shaking stuff and inspecting. Also when the truck is off. Move the steering wheel left and right pretty hard to see how the pivot beam bushings are holding up. If it moves a good bit left and right your in for a world of fun.
but idk i prolly have to just keep it on the road till i can afford to get a solid axle.The bracket can be found by following the driver-side beam to its pivot location on the passenger side of the crossmember. Look at the pic above.
Solid axle swaps are a whole different topic, with a lot of different opinions and options. I would only go this route if you were absolutely sure you wanted a solid axle. Luckily, they can be found almost anywhere. Junk yards may still have some, or get on CL or check any of the 4x4 forums for-sale sections. Mine came from VA, and I had it shipped to Dallas. 200 for the axle, and 200 for the ride, but it was my only option at the time, after nearly a year of searching for one...
FSB's SAS section has everything you'll ever need to know regarding the swap. Broncos and F150s are virtually idential regarding this swap, so everything regarding a Bronco is applicable to the F150 as well...












