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Death wobble!!!

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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:03 PM
  #1  
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Death wobble!!!

so my front end on my '93 f150 4x4 is.... well i wanna burn it but i cant cuz idk where to get a dana 44 solid front .... anyway so it started about 3 days agao. it drives fine for the most part but when im not expecting it its starts shaking (not sure if side to side or up and down). what could cause this??? ive already posted about my camber problems i have, but only iun reverse . i was told on here that that is just a trait of my twin "i" beram but idk... i think the design is junk personally
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:13 PM
  #2  
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If you're using the TTB drop brackets for the lift listed in your sig, I would first remove the driver-side drop bracket (located on the passenger side crossmember) and check for any cracks in the frame. I had that happen to mine before I put a solid axle under. Stress cracks allowed the bracket to tilt enough to throw off caster, and caused deathwobble at around 35 mph. Also check and make sure the drop bracket hasn't become bent from off-road use.


Also check is the pivot beam bushings. If they're shot, it could throw off the caster enough to cause DW...


Get an angle finder and determine what your caster angle is for both sides.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 05:13 PM
  #3  
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i know it sounds dumb but check the bolts on your drop brackets mine did the same thing
it would drive great and then every once in a while it would start shaking I would have to almost come to a complete stop.Some of my bolts was coming loose.

Jack up the front end and have a buddy wiggle the tires real hard see if your brackets move at all
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 08:07 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by animator
If you're using the TTB drop brackets for the lift listed in your sig, I would first remove the driver-side drop bracket (located on the passenger side crossmember) and check for any cracks in the frame. I had that happen to mine before I put a solid axle under. Stress cracks allowed the bracket to tilt enough to throw off caster, and caused deathwobble at around 35 mph. Also check and make sure the drop bracket hasn't become bent from off-road use.


Also check is the pivot beam bushings. If they're shot, it could throw off the caster enough to cause DW...


Get an angle finder and determine what your caster angle is for both sides.
i havent noticed any kinds of cracks in the frame but could you describe the drop brackets?? they the same as the radius arm brackets ?? also where do you suggest looking for a solid axle dana 44??? how much did it cost in part and such....

Originally Posted by chrismd188
i know it sounds dumb but check the bolts on your drop brackets mine did the same thing
it would drive great and then every once in a while it would start shaking I would have to almost come to a complete stop.Some of my bolts was coming loose.

Jack up the front end and have a buddy wiggle the tires real hard see if your brackets move at all
ok i will be sure to look at that, thanks
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 08:26 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Thedonk
also where do you suggest looking for a solid axle dana 44??? how much did it cost in part and such....
Drop brackets are if you lifted the truck. The passenger side has a bolted in braket either way so it might be worth checking.

I think I got screwed over. I paid $450 for a D44 complete with arms, coil buckets, etc. except the track bar had been cut off so unusable without modification. I was probably going to need a custom one anyways but still. It was 3:55 already so it matched my stock rear end which was the main plus and the only d44 I found around here in 4 months of searching. Then I saw a complete front D44 with the 9 inch rear a couple months later but it wasn't as high a gear ratio as 3:55 but he was only asking $300 for both. I don't know. At least the one I bought had the top of the line mile marker hubs (the chrome ones with chrome centers) and ball joints looked somewhat newer and the rubber on them were good so maybe I didn't come out as bad as I think I did. Its sitting in a barn right now so I can only hope none of the livestock have messed it up but its a hunk of metal in the corner so I think I will be fine.

Look on craigslist. If you live in the city look outside of the metropolitan area where these obs fords are more commonly found on the road. I live in Dallas and ended up having to drive an hour south to Ennis to get mine.

Good luck. A SAS is not a cheap option to fix your issue. You will need at least a 4 inch lift to make it fit and generally it costs around 1-2K to complete.

If I was you I would call around and find an alignment shop that still works on these (I ended up going to a 18 wheeler alignment shop, they even cold bended my i beams) and have them check it out. Or do what the other member suggested and get it up in the air and just start shaking stuff and inspecting. Also when the truck is off. Move the steering wheel left and right pretty hard to see how the pivot beam bushings are holding up. If it moves a good bit left and right your in for a world of fun.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 08:29 PM
  #6  
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I am a much huger fan of this forum but check out FSB. They have a whole section dedicated to do a solid axle swap and one member had a thread where he breaks down exactly how much his cost him in parts (not including his labor) and it was around 2K if I remember right but I think he did extended rad arms as well.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #7  
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I just realized based off your sig you do have a lift and most likely drop brackets. They look like this:

 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 09:33 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Thedonk
i havent noticed any kinds of cracks in the frame but could you describe the drop brackets?? they the same as the radius arm brackets ?? also where do you suggest looking for a solid axle dana 44??? how much did it cost in part and such....


ok i will be sure to look at that, thanks


You likely won't notice them until you get the bracket off. The forward facing bolts tend to loosen over time, as mentioned already, and causes excess leverage on the inner bolts (facing the oil pan) and can cause cracks to develop there. But, gotta remove the bracket first. Hopefully the nuts are just a bit loose, and tightening them will fix it. If they are just loose, either stake the nuts or use some red loctite to keep them from loosening again.


The bracket can be found by following the driver-side beam to its pivot location on the passenger side of the crossmember. Look at the pic above.


Solid axle swaps are a whole different topic, with a lot of different opinions and options. I would only go this route if you were absolutely sure you wanted a solid axle. Luckily, they can be found almost anywhere. Junk yards may still have some, or get on CL or check any of the 4x4 forums for-sale sections. Mine came from VA, and I had it shipped to Dallas. 200 for the axle, and 200 for the ride, but it was my only option at the time, after nearly a year of searching for one...


FSB's SAS section has everything you'll ever need to know regarding the swap. Broncos and F150s are virtually idential regarding this swap, so everything regarding a Bronco is applicable to the F150 as well...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 07:58 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by fordf350man
Drop brackets are if you lifted the truck. The passenger side has a bolted in braket either way so it might be worth checking.

I think I got screwed over. I paid $450 for a D44 complete with arms, coil buckets, etc. except the track bar had been cut off so unusable without modification. I was probably going to need a custom one anyways but still. It was 3:55 already so it matched my stock rear end which was the main plus and the only d44 I found around here in 4 months of searching. Then I saw a complete front D44 with the 9 inch rear a couple months later but it wasn't as high a gear ratio as 3:55 but he was only asking $300 for both. I don't know. At least the one I bought had the top of the line mile marker hubs (the chrome ones with chrome centers) and ball joints looked somewhat newer and the rubber on them were good so maybe I didn't come out as bad as I think I did. Its sitting in a barn right now so I can only hope none of the livestock have messed it up but its a hunk of metal in the corner so I think I will be fine.

Look on craigslist. If you live in the city look outside of the metropolitan area where these obs fords are more commonly found on the road. I live in Dallas and ended up having to drive an hour south to Ennis to get mine.

Good luck. A SAS is not a cheap option to fix your issue. You will need at least a 4 inch lift to make it fit and generally it costs around 1-2K to complete.

If I was you I would call around and find an alignment shop that still works on these (I ended up going to a 18 wheeler alignment shop, they even cold bended my i beams) and have them check it out. Or do what the other member suggested and get it up in the air and just start shaking stuff and inspecting. Also when the truck is off. Move the steering wheel left and right pretty hard to see how the pivot beam bushings are holding up. If it moves a good bit left and right your in for a world of fun.
haha ok i really hope i can find one because the front end is the onnly thing on this truck that has given me grief for no reason but idk i prolly have to just keep it on the road till i can afford to get a solid axle.

Originally Posted by animator
You likely won't notice them until you get the bracket off. The forward facing bolts tend to loosen over time, as mentioned already, and causes excess leverage on the inner bolts (facing the oil pan) and can cause cracks to develop there. But, gotta remove the bracket first. Hopefully the nuts are just a bit loose, and tightening them will fix it. If they are just loose, either stake the nuts or use some red loctite to keep them from loosening again.


The bracket can be found by following the driver-side beam to its pivot location on the passenger side of the crossmember. Look at the pic above.


Solid axle swaps are a whole different topic, with a lot of different opinions and options. I would only go this route if you were absolutely sure you wanted a solid axle. Luckily, they can be found almost anywhere. Junk yards may still have some, or get on CL or check any of the 4x4 forums for-sale sections. Mine came from VA, and I had it shipped to Dallas. 200 for the axle, and 200 for the ride, but it was my only option at the time, after nearly a year of searching for one...


FSB's SAS section has everything you'll ever need to know regarding the swap. Broncos and F150s are virtually idential regarding this swap, so everything regarding a Bronco is applicable to the F150 as well...
ok i will look at the FSB site some time today.... thanks guys
 
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 11:44 AM
  #10  
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The suspension mounting points being discussed can cause death wobble, but they aren't the only possible causes. Look at the "ordinary" sources too. Loose wheel bearings, ball joints, rod ends, steering box. Anything loose in the front end can cause it (I had death wobble in my '71 Bronco caused by a worn out steering box).
 
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 04:25 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by fordf350man
I am a much huger fan of this forum but check out FSB. They have a whole section dedicated to do a solid axle swap and one member had a thread where he breaks down exactly how much his cost him in parts (not including his labor) and it was around 2K if I remember right but I think he did extended rad arms as well.
I agree, tons of info here: Solid Axle Swaps - FSB Forums
 
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #12  
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thanks guys but i took it to my buddy's shop and he said i need I beam bushings... so im looking at all my options like getting a solid axle to swap or doing the repair myself but idk...
 
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