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I found when going with the Centerforce stage ll clutch setup had to cut the clutch linkage push rod 1/2" shorter to be able to adjust the free play travel.
About 09 put it in and no have not used it for any off roading much in the last 20 yrs.
So far so good with the centerforce. I was running the 11.5 long style but due using a NV4500 o/d have been using the a Chevy clutch disc with a ford pressure plate that works out good. But wanted more clamping force with the smaller clutch disc.
Theirs is a fast release for like drag racing, don't care for it as it's a short push on the pedal, and the normal full release of the pedal.
Back in the day of the Fox Chassis Mustang Ford motorsport (FRPP) used to have a part number on the Centerforce pressure plate and on the dual friction disc. Back then I was told one side was ceramic. Which needed to be heated up to grab good and went through flywheels quicker. I've never had one personally but this is what I was told. They look different than the one in your pic Steve. Like this:
What do you need a heavy clutch for with a 240? You'll be very happy with an 11" diaphragm clutch.
Probably for the same reason most of us have an old Ford truck. It probably isn't something that most or even all of us "need" but, it was because we like them and wanted them that we have them.
--most changes on a hobby vehicle are because you want it and generally not a case of because you "need" it.
It just comes down to preference in what components you want to add and how much you're willing to spend to get it.
What do you need a heavy clutch for with a 240? You'll be very happy with an 11" diaphragm clutch.
I was thinking the same as you. I have a 1967 F100 with a 240/3 speed and the clutch has been replaced a couple of times ONLY because dearly departed dad used to to pull a 16 foot bumper hitch stock trailer and he had to ride the clutch a lot to get the rig rolling. He was using a toy truck to do a work truck's job. Under normal conditions that 240 will do just fine with a stock clutch.
The only issue I ever had was the clutch pedal being lazy and having to "toe" it back in place. When I put new clutch in I haven't had that issue anymore. Doing some reading on diaphragm style revealed that is a pretty common issue with the easy pedal.....I do like to grab second sometimes to hear the chirp but not enough to go with a centerline.....
WOW!! Great info!!! Thanks to you all!! Computer problems have kept me away. I don't really NEED a heavy duty clutch, I do want one that will stand up to occasionally pulling a two horse trailer, or a car hauler with my project VWs or F-100s!! If I understand correctly, the old style three finger grips better than the new diaphragm style. So for my purposes it appears that a stock original style 11 inch will fill the bill?!?
I know this is an old thread but.... I just learned the hard way that the diaphragm clutch I bought DID NOT WORK. The clutch cover was a hair too big and rubbed the inside of the bell housing - preventing the engine from turning. Had I simply been replacing the clutch I would have found out while rotating the flywheel to torque the bolts, but since it was installed on a new engine that hadn't been lowered into the truck yet, I didn't learn until I panicked that I couldn't turn the engine over while trying to drop in the distributor. Just an FYI for people in the future.