For us above 40 degrees latitude (but below that in temperature) it's cold outside. Whether your truck starts unplugged or not, many still want a jump on getting the windshield defrosted and their feet warm. I have a timer on an extension cord to "pre-heat" Stinky before I go to work on cold mornings, but I'm getting ready for an upgrade. Before I delve into the details on the upgrade, I thought I'd share some basics that not everybody is aware of.

I haven't confirmed this yet, but my information is that we use about 1000 watts of power (close to 8 amps) on our engine heaters. This makes perfect sense to me for many reason, so I haven't gone through the trouble to rig up a way to read the draw with my meter. Depending on how close you can get to an outlet with your truck, and whether you back in or drive in - dictates how long your extension cord is.

The extension cord - this is where the most people have issues. It's such a common item to have around any home or shop, but it is so easily misunderstood. A glance at the shelves at Home Depot or Lowe's would have you grabbing the cheaper 50-foot cord. For those wanting the best of everything, you might look at the thickest 50-foot cord. In both of these cases, that cord may very well be a fuse to your vehicle and home - the kind of fuse for lighting fires. A cheap cord is easier to buy, carry, and handle - and a thick cord might just have a lot of coating to handle abrasive wear. You're looking for the maximum amps of the extension cord, whatever the length. You're also looking for outdoor use.

If the cord is specifically for the truck, I'm looking at the 10-amp max cords. If I'm looking for the cord to match the outlet max amperage, typical home outlets have a 15-amp rating. A 10-amp cord is not as simple as just looking at the wire gauge - you also have to take the length into account. If the run to the truck is 25 feet or less, a 16-gauge cord works just fine - very inexpensive. If you're running 200 feet of cord to the truck, every inch of it needs to be 10-gauge. Brace yourself when you head for the cord aisle at the hardware store for two 100-foot 10-gauge cords. Not only will you need the cart to lug all that copper around, you'll need your Buck$Zooka at the checkout counter.

While every cord has a tag on it to show the maximum amperage, here's a down-and-dirty list of minimum-gauge cords for just our block heaters, and nothing else on the cord:

up to 25 feet - 16 gauge
up to 50 feet - 14 gauge
up to 150 feet - 12 gauge
up to 200 feet - 10 gauge

If you're looking for full circuit rating (15 amps) at the end of the cord - so you can plug in the battery charger on the same cord:

up to 25 feet - 14 gauge
up to 50 feet - 12 gauge
up to 100 feet - 10 gauge
up to 150 feet - 8 gauge

If you're over 100 feet from an outlet, might I suggest getting closer or lowering your power demand. You don't want a piece of that 150-foot 8-gauge cord for outdoor use.

One other tip here: I use the cord with the glowing socket on the end when powered. All I have to do is look out the window at Stinky's nose to verify the power is warming him up.

I mentioned an "upgrade": WiFi smart outlet. I grew tired of wrestling with the weekend schedule being different than the weekday schedule. These devices are available for hard-wiring into the wall, or for plugging into the existing outlet - but I haven't found a hard-wired outlet rated at over 600 watts (yet). I suggest the plug-in type anyway, because you can take it with you when you travel. I also suggest this type in the event of failure - you don't want to have to re-wire your outlet as a maintenance item.





Here's a checklist for buying these:

• If not tech-savvy, is it easy to program?
• Does it work with my technology - Windows, Apple, or Android?
• Does it handle 10 amps?
• Does it keep the programming in the event of a power outage?
• How many timer events can I put in there?
• What do the reviewers say about the device?
• Do I have reliable WiFi signal where I want to put this?

Imagine - programming your truck to warm up on your schedule, not the device's. Also imagine picking up your phone to start warming the truck when your wife wakes up and says "Let's go to Mom's house". The smart outlet might not solve your in-law problems - but it's very helpful in dealing with the balance between warm toes and the power bill.

 

Great information as always from you. Which reminds me, I need to see if I have a block heater on my truck, I'm hoping so as it was built for Canadian market.

 

The word is that they were all built with a power cord. I'm curious about what for voltage you folks run over on the other side of the pond and what your plug looks like.

 

I have a digital programmable timer on a 25 foot, lighted end cord that works well. With the timer I use it has two outlets so, on one side I have the extension cord and on the other I have one of those plug in electrical socket testers so that with a glance in the garage, I can tell if it's on. The Wifi outlet would simplify this and be an upgrade for sure-Thanks for sharing!

 

Great info Rich, and timely to boot.

 

Very good info! Like the idea here.

 

If it's there it will have a standard US type plug for 120v. We use 240v here for domestic stuff but we also use 110v on construction sites so I have a couple of transformers kicking around. Here's the plug I will be using.

 

Hmmm, makes me wonder what the plug on the end of your cord looks like now. Ours have two flat blades parallel to each other and one round one for the ground. They also protrude and don't have that round protective enclosure around them.

 

They have two round posts distanced a little wider than our plugs with spades. That plug in the picture would not fit into one of their wall outlets, that's for a cord.

 

It looks like a good set up. I'd surmise that the mate to that would fit up inside the enclosure and would keep the connection cleaner.

 

Any suggestions on block heater replacements? I just tested mine and it's dead. A write up with pictures would be nice. I'm sure it's not complicated but every little bit helps.

 

Don't remember the socket size but will try to find it somewhere. Put some gasoila on the threads to prevent leaks. Are you doing a new cord too? It just runs across the top frame rail to the bumper.

 

[QUOTE=scotttahoe;15879804]Don't remember the socket size but will try to find it somewhere. Put some gasoila on the threads to prevent leaks. Are you doing a new cord too? It just runs across the top frame rail to the bumper.

I might do a new cord as well just because of the age and possible lack of care this truck might of had. I had a bad feeling that block heater wasn't working. I'll check Advance Auto for one that I could possibly put in right now. It's 47° but my hands still hurt out here. It's only going to get colder so I need to get this done.

 

Here is one from Riffraff. Doesn't look like you need any sealant as it already has it on the threads. I don't see the cord on their site.

Block Heater Coil - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

Local Store has one. It's called Zerostart. List: Engine Heater - 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty | O'Reilly Auto Parts