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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 09:26 PM
  #16  
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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 10:23 PM
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What kind of sealant do you recommend for the heater? I'm replacing mine and it doesn't come with the threads sealed. And I can't justify $30 can of gasoila for that little bit needed...
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 06:09 AM
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I've used teflon paste and copper thread locker on items not in contact with fuel. Since this seals coolant, the teflon paste would be the call - it will take the heat.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 08:57 AM
  #19  
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I haven't come across a write up yet for the Block heater replacement so I have a few questions. Do I need to drain the coolant in order to replace it? If I do have to drain it is this now a good time to change the coolant? I have read about others using some different coolant in the truck (Def Blue or something like that?). My coolant is green and no idea how old so if I have to drain it might as well do the full job right?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 09:10 AM
  #20  
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You will need to either drain it down or prepare with a bucket under it and prepare for a glycol bath. If you leave it capped up top the bath would be more like a couple of glugs. It would be a good time to change it if you want to and if you want to change the type of anti-freeze you use you will want to flush well to remove all of the green stuff. I'm not 100% sure but I think that the only other stuff out there is orange and is something like ELC for extended life coolant. They are not compatible and will turn each other to gel if they get mixed.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 11:47 AM
  #21  
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If you have an E99 do NOT use ELC coolant. You will also need to add SCA and I would change hoses, thermostat etc too.
If you're not gonna flush coolant I read where guys have used a shop vac to help prevent coolant loss. I'm gonna have my gf help with the shop vac while I loosen/remove the heater.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 11:47 AM
  #22  
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??????????? I thought "our" block heaters heated up the oil, not the coolant; hence the reason for it being in the oil cooler?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by carguy3j
??????????? I thought "our" block heaters heated up the oil, not the coolant; hence the reason for it being in the oil cooler?
Nope, it heats the coolant, there is some residual heating of the oil because of the location though.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 02:23 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Colorado350

Nope, it heats the coolant, there is some residual heating of the oil because of the location though.
Huh... I guess I read wrong somewhere. Still, you would think, given how dependent these engines are on oil temp, when cold, that it might make sense to heat the oil also. Warm coolant / cab heat is nice, but I think warm oil would go much further to easing cold starts....
If you wanted to add an oil heater, anybody have any ideas on where to do it? I don't like the idea of the "pads" stuck on the bottom of the oil pan, given how "fragile" the pans can be to begin with.
Maybe if you were already going to install a new pan anyway, having a block heater style fitting welded in near the bottom could work?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 04:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by carguy3j
??????????? I thought "our" block heaters heated up the oil, not the coolant; hence the reason for it being in the oil cooler?
That coil gets pretty hot and I wouldn't want mine coming in direct contact with motor oil, it'd probably catch fire.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 08:26 AM
  #26  
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The block heater heats the block... and heating oil in a pan below the engine doesn't accomplish this. The coolant is the only logical and safe thing to directly apply a heating coil to, powered by a 120 VAC extension cord.

The OTR truckers use the pads on the bottom of the pan. Those pads don't need to get burning hot like we're deep-frying a turkey - they just need to warm up to about 80 degrees F.

When replacing the block heater, all coolant must be drained. I drain the radiator, then I actually use the block heater with a bucket under it to finish draining the block.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 10:44 AM
  #27  
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I assume this ELC coolant costs more. Is it worth the upgrade if I have to drain the coolant anyway? Since I have to drain to do this block heater I might as well change out the two? hoses so that they route behind the belt rather than through the belt.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 10:58 AM
  #28  
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You have to do a complete flush with distilled water, a couple of gallons will never drain out. Search "Gooch's radiator flush".
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 05:07 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Tugly
...These devices are available for hard-wiring into the wall, or for plugging into the existing outlet - but I haven't found a hard-wired outlet rated at over 600 watts (yet).
...

Here are two sources for hardwired smart wifi outlets, Rich, which are rated at 1,000 watts and/or 15 amps.

Quirky Outlink - Smart Wall Duplex Outlet with Energy Monitor-POTLK-WH02 - The Home Depot

http://www.a1securitycameras.com/ubi...FYUbgQodZrsEWg

...
 
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Old Dec 22, 2015 | 06:18 PM
  #30  
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I have a similar setup for my block heater. I install security, fire alarm and video camera systems for a living so I have all kinds of this type of technology in my home. I have a Zwave outlet on my house for my block heater and use a 12 gage cold weather rated 25' extension cord. The Zwave outlet is programmed and connected to my alarm system so I can control the outlet through schedules or I can even have it follow sunrise and sunset. Turning the outlet on and off can also be done manually from my cell phone or any computer similar to the wifi setup Tugly is talking about. I also can recieve a text when the heater turns on or off if I want. I also have a heat sensor connected to my alarm under the soffit of my house where I plug my truck in at so if the block heater or cord were to fail and cause a fire the fire department would be called.
 
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