If it's an E99 do NOT use ELC. Regular green is recommended.

 

Subscribing to follow along

 

I just stick with the green stuff because I'm a cantankerous old man who doesn't like change too much but why is the ELC not to be used on the E99? What are its advantages/disadvantages over the green ethyl glycol I've been using ever since I quit just using kerosene in the radiator?

 

I believe the issue is that International used a different type of retaining compound, on the injector cups, on the E99 engines, that will break down and fail if exposed to ELC coolant. L99 and up used a different compound that IS compatible with ELC, but which can also be used with the old "green stuff".
I'm not sure if other seals, such as in the water pump were also an issue, or not?

 

Here's a quote from Gooch:

Quote:
"Mostly it's the injector cups. International, who made the engine, found some compatibility issues with the older injector cup material, sensors, front cover, seals, gaskets, o-rings, and probably some other stuff when using coolants that contained organic acid technology (OAT). Coolants like ELC's (usually Red) and G-05 (usually Gold) will have these OAT's. Conventional coolants (usually Green) will not.

So International revised those components on all 2/2/99-up build engines (SN 940614-up), and began recommending and factory filling with HD ELC coolants mid-year 2000. Never looked back.

You could use HD ELC's in the older engines, but you run the risk of having to replace the cups and maybe some other stuff. I always try to recommend conventional coolant meeting ASTM D4985 with SCA or a pre-charged conventional coolant meeting ASTM D6210 for those. But it's your call, and some owners use the ELC in their older engine successfully. For the 2/2/99-up builds I would highly recommend upgrading to HD ELC.

BTW, if you need to check the build date of your engine, you can find it on the valve-cover tag (driver's side), or stamped on a machined surface on the underside of the engine, behind the oil filter and just ahead of the bell-housing cover. You may need to wire brush/clean it to read it."

 

Great info Colorado350, thanks for sharing that.

I clicked those and one question popped right up in my head: Do these have timers? If so, marketing neglected to mention it. The only "smart" reference I find is I can turn it off and on remotely. I guess I've had a "smart" garage door with short remote range for decades.

I hope I just missed something in the fine print, because I'd hate to think I have to whip out the phone and moonwalk with my fingers every time I want an outlet to turn on/off. I can see it now, first thing in the morning: I'm thumbing, sliding, and pecking all over my smartphone and my wife asks "What are you texting, War and peace?" My reply would be "Nope, just trying to turn this lamp on so I can find my reading glasses".

 

Is this my block heater? Pic taken through the wheel well.

 

That's the star of the show. Do you use yours?

 

Not yet, I need to see where the wires run to. There is no plug near the towhook so when we get home in the new year I'll get underneath & see what I find. It's still above 40° here in the UK & we are away in the 5th wheel.

 

...2011, 6.2, 50K on the clock....Im about to change the block heater as it reads 35 ohms and is not heating well or at all. 34.5 ohhms = about 410 watts so its on its way out. I believe the gasser heater is 650W? Has anyone performed the shop vac trick to minimize coolant down my arm neck etc??? If so please explain the setup. Id imagine you dont want full vacuum going at the system only enough to hold the coolant in the block??? So some kind of restrictor on the vacuum hose???

 

So this may be the ignorant question of the thread, how long do you guys have it on/how long does it need to be on? When it gets below freezing I've always just plugged it up when I get to the house in the evening and left it plugged up all night. Can I get away with less power usage?

 

Install a manual timer and set it up to run for 30 minutes and off for 30 minutes, alternating through the night.

 

I would use a timer and set it to come on 3 hours prior to me leaving for work in the morning.

 

I was thinking "worst case scenario" with the truck being outside in subzero conditions overnight. For better conditions than that, you're right.

 

That's the way I use mine. Although it hasn't been working this winter. I need to do some troubleshooting. I'm hoping it's just the cord and not the heater. It's been cold here the last couple of weeks and the remote start hasn't been firing the old girl up in the morning. Not enough glo plug time for the Schaeffer 7000. I think next winter I'll go with the 9000 and use the 7000 for warmer weather.