6.0owner You may want to check those figures again with your shop. Our long blocks start at $4,895. so your figure of $10K means that the shop is charging you $5,000 for an installation not counting any injection system, oil cooler, etc???? If that's the case, you should find a different shop! Our warranty on short and long blocks is for 12 months, same as Ford gives.
Warren Diesel can sell you a set of remanufactured injectors for around $700. A new oil cooler is under $300. You can get an EGR Delete kit under $300. Look around to see what you can really get it done for because a new turbo and all shouldn't be much more han $10K.
If you want to go the route of getting a remanufactured engine from Ford, keep in mind that they use stock head bolts. I can get you a reman from Ford for $12,390 with the Ford 2 yr warranty if you decide that's what you want. Most decent mechanics can install that for you for much less that a total of $15K.
If you need a shop, let me know and I can refer you somewhere.

 

Ashville engine,

thanks for keeping an eye on my forum thread, I am glad to have you post here. For the new (rebuilt from Ford) drop in we are looking at like 12k for the engine like you said, somewhere around 2k for install/tune and adding a coolant filter and 1k tax.. that puts me at about 15k.

I priced and Ashville engine with the minimum stuff I would add and it looks kind of like this... Asheville 2.0 rebuilt at 5.5k BPD EGR 350.00 BPD oil cooler with factory filter 1.7k.. install and tune like 2k. Add some tax This ballparks to like 10k without going into the turbo or oil pumps / injectors etc.

If I go with the Ford I'm not going to mess with the egr/oil system until my warranty is close to done I think. I can't really delete the egr here in CA without maybe getting some unwanted attention from the smog inspection.

I guess the question is do I want to gamble the 5k more it costs me for a complete drop in with all new.. or risk spending close to as much getting my aftermarket rebuilt going the same. In reality the aftermarket rebuilt like Ashville might actually be a better engine in my opinion.. I am just worried that all the crap that bolts onto it will nickle and dime me to the same dollar point (big nickles and dimes).

 

Since you are working the truck and plan to keep it I would go with the Ashville engine if it were me and add the improved EGR and oil coolers and coolant filter. I know it may look more expensive, but having that truck down when you have business to conduct means loss of profits. Addressing any known common failure points now will help to prevent down time in the future and you already stated you wouldn't do any of that with the Ford reman. I wouldn't even consider a salvage engine if I were you. If a reman engine lasts 12 months in a business vehicle the it was obviously built right and any problems you may have after that won't be because of the engine. Just my two cents...

 

My 2 cents worth only from reading this thread -- as you stated it (Ashville engine) may "nickel and dime" you until it's at 15K. So if you start from that price point and work backwards -- what do you get for your 15K from Ford and what do you get for 15K from Ashville. From what I have read, it sounds like with the Ashville you will have a superior engine, hands down with new turbo, injectors, etc. Now if you consider Ashville has ARP studs now vs head bolts and factor in another 3K later for head gaskets and studs (or more) after the Ford warranty expires, then the picture seems to change a little more. While nothing is bulletproof really, I think for my 15K I would feel much more confident with the Ashville and I wouldn't worry that 2 years max (for the Ford) you are going back in for head gaskets and studs (now 15K is 18K) -- that's a given. Just thinking out loud.

 

Things to ask about an engine from Ford. Can they put studs in in place of the TTY
bolts Also a BPD EGR cooler should not be a issue.

Now on the TTY bolts. They are in many trucks and you don't see the old problems
and people that are not having problems don't say much. We see all the problems
like any forum. A lot of the problems can be tracked back to poor maintenance.
Key things to watch charging system and clean cooling system and in doing that you
have removed a lot of the problem child issues.

The BPD oil cooler system is WAY over priced for what it does and also holds a lot
of dirty oil when it comes to oil change time.

You said that you will only put about 5 k a year on it. That really makes the BPD
oil cooler system into $$$$$ more over time. If your worried about other drivers
you might check with someone that can write you a tune that will defuel sooner on
engine temp in case you have some people that don't care about the bosses money
and equipment. The guy I worked for in San Diego had GPS trackers on all of the trucks.
Granted that did not help when the punk that did not want to work one day pulled
and swapped around all the fuses and relays and said that the truck would not start.
I think he got canned the next week for that stunt. Had it been me I would of given him
a bottle of water,dust pan and broom. I would then said go sweep the parking lot. We were
in a large strip mall.

I got a little off point on that. The point is GPS the truck and tell the drivers you break it you pay
to fix it and won't be driving again very soon.

BTW running over Smart Cars should always be the execution to the you fix it rule.





Merry Christmas


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks everyone for the advice on this thread. I have learned alot about the 6.0 and hopefully some of that will help me keep this truck going for years to come. I have learned to keep an eye on the EOT and ECT temperatures and the differential spikes to watch out for. I will be putting some kind of scangage display to keep an eye on the stats that matter. I have arranged for regular service for the coolant/lube/fuel system as I don't want to risk trouble if it can be avoided.
I went with the Ford full dress (like 11k). Pretty much drop in.. new turbo.. injectors.. lube pumps/covers etc .. I replaced the radiator as I don't want to risk old block sand or silicone drop out from getting into my new system.. finished it up with a sinister diesel coolant filter system.. and the truck seems to run and go just awesome. EOT/ECT spread of 8 Deg after a decent drive. I can't think of anything more to do to it right now.. and the Ford warranty gives me 2 years of unlimited miles including labor so I'm hoping that I'm good to go.
Thanks again for the help.. and let me know if I am missing something important to do to this new engine.
TC

 

Good to hear your back on the road.




Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Just to clear up what we do so nobody thinks that we are nickle and dimeing people. If we sold all of the additional parts, that may be true but we don't sell those parts. We sell a stripped long block without pumps, covers, injectors and other parts for several reasons.
1. Many customers can re-use a lot of the "hard parts" that are on their engines which will save them money.
2. Many customers have their own ideas of what kind of aftermarket injectors, turbos, etc. that they want on their engines. If they had to buy an engine with those parts included, they have to try to re-sell all that stuff. No need to do that with us.
3. Most competent diesel shops can rebuild an engine themselves but they have to wait weeks, sometimes 3 or 4, for the machine shop to do their part. This ties their bay up which means they aren't making money. If we put together a complete engine, the shop owners wouldn't want to buy them because they don't earn as much money as they do swapping the parts over. Why pay us when a local shop can make the money that they need to operate? We just supply them what they need to get the truck out of their bay so they can free up their bays. They earn what they need, we earn a living and the end customer gets a great engine. If they get nickle and dime'd, it wont be by us.

 

I agree completely. Ashville would only have been sourced to provide the long block. I would not have expected to buy the other needed parts from them.

If you do not know the story of this truck from the other thread... we basically had an "internal meltdown" that required us to do a complete swap-out.

As I needed everything else... covers, pumps, complete fuel system.. turbo.. egr (Im in California), oil cooler and filter system etc., I went with the best price for the most complete unit that would have a unified warranty for everything under the hood together.

The only thing we added beyond the full dress engine was a new radiator, Sinster Diesel coolant filter and OBD-ll display unit.

She runs like a screaming meemie now... and we are keeping an eye on the temps and have made a regular maintenance schedule.

The option I went with seemed to have worked out great for me. It may not be for everyone, but it worked for my needs. I got an almost new F-450 (66k miles with new powerplant) flatbed for our company.. . in a short amount of time at a reasonable cost. I did use a small local shop for the install as they seemed like good guys who needed the work. I have complete paperwork from Ford so I can go direct if there are any issues that come up.