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I am going to go solar with an on board charger. I am looking to only maintain the batteries. At night I lose .1-.2 volts per night or if I let it sit a full day. I have had my truck checked out and no excessive draw can be located.
So, I am in need of some suggestions of a good maintainer. Alot of these solar battery charging companies have mixed reviews.
I would think that I should be able to find something that works GOOD for a entire package (panel,controller,cables) for under a $120.
I haven't decided on where to mount the panel yet. But I am NOT wanting to use the roof.
All suggestions and personal experience is more than welcomed.
I am going to go solar with an on board charger. I am looking to only maintain the batteries. At night I lose .1-.2 volts per night or if I let it sit a full day. I have had my truck checked out and no excessive draw can be located.
So, I am in need of some suggestions of a good maintainer. Alot of these solar battery charging companies have mixed reviews.
I would think that I should be able to find something that works GOOD for a entire package (panel,controller,cables) for under a $120.
I haven't decided on where to mount the panel yet. But I am NOT wanting to use the roof.
All suggestions and personal experience is more than welcomed.
Thanks guys - Preston
I take it you have a sunroof? A thought on a different way to tackle this: If you park in generally the same place each day, and you don't have a bunch of thieves in your hood, how about a fixed solar charging "station"?
Let me run down this path a bit:
All panels, regardless of technology they are made of, benefit from optimizing their orientation towards the sun. The most extreme example would be a panel that follows the sun from sun up to sun down and changes with the earths daily changing of axis. But that'd be a touch more than $120
But with a fixed station you could pick a southerly direction and an angle that is a mid-compromise between the Solstice and Equinox for your geographic location.
A few things it does is you can use a correctly sized panel, likely a cheaper panel and it will charge better. You'd just have a plug say in your grill you plug into when you park (and remember to unplug before you leave! ).
What do you think and we can go farther if this would work for you...
I take it you have a sunroof? A thought on a different way to tackle this: If you park in generally the same place each day, and you don't have a bunch of thieves in your hood, how about a fixed solar charging "station"?
Let me run down this path a bit:
All panels, regardless of technology they are made of, benefit from optimizing their orientation towards the sun. The most extreme example would be a panel that follows the sun from sun up to sun down and changes with the earths daily changing of axis. But that'd be a touch more than $120
But with a fixed station you could pick a southerly direction and an angle that is a mid-compromise between the Solstice and Equinox for your geographic location.
A few things it does is you can use a correctly sized panel, likely a cheaper panel and it will charge better. You'd just have a plug say in your grill you plug into when you park (and remember to unplug before you leave! ).
What do you think and we can go farther if this would work for you...
I was thinking the same. Your going to get a lot more output 90º Vs at an off angle to the sun.
At least that is my understanding on that topic.
I take it you have a sunroof? A thought on a different way to tackle this: If you park in generally the same place each day, and you don't have a bunch of thieves in your hood, how about a fixed solar charging "station"?
Let me run down this path a bit:
All panels, regardless of technology they are made of, benefit from optimizing their orientation towards the sun. The most extreme example would be a panel that follows the sun from sun up to sun down and changes with the earths daily changing of axis. But that'd be a touch more than $120
But with a fixed station you could pick a southerly direction and an angle that is a mid-compromise between the Solstice and Equinox for your geographic location.
A few things it does is you can use a correctly sized panel, likely a cheaper panel and it will charge better. You'd just have a plug say in your grill you plug into when you park (and remember to unplug before you leave! ).
What do you think and we can go farther if this would work for you...
Originally Posted by Yahiko
I was thinking the same. Your going to get a lot more output 90º Vs at an off angle to the sun.
At least that is my understanding on that topic.
Okay guys, holy cow! There is a lot of info with this topic.
Thank you for the links Sean. I was able to read a lot of it.
Scott, here's what I was thinking:
Mount a panel on the dash on the drivers side, run the cable to the controller under the hood, and then connect each cable to their respective terminal post. I know that the window may block some of the rays and drop effeciency, and I am also aware that it may not do well in the heat in summer time. So that's why I am torn on that spot.
I do NOT have a sunroof. I just didn't want to drill and mount in the roof.
And all those links that Sean provided showed to put the panels between a 15 to 50 degree position.
What about the lip of the front bumper to mount the panel?
One though would be if your parking for days at a time.
Make a mount that you can remove for storage and place it in the bed
with some type of locking device.
One though would be if your parking for days at a time.
Make a mount that you can remove for storage and place it in the bed
with some type of locking device.
I do have that bed cover on my truck, and my tailgate lock. I know that the bed cover isnt theft proof but it does deter.
But I am trying figure something out for a permanent mount. I just don't want to hassle with it. I just want it constant and always giving a charge to the batteries when the truck is off (or when the controller activates the charge when needed)
Originally Posted by Arizona97
How about attaching the solar panel to the roof with magnets while you are parked during the day?
Although I do want something permanent, I do like this idea for camping purposes.
I am thankful for your guys help, and brainstorming , please continue as I am trying too. I just want this to be a "once and done". I don't want to move it multiple times.
I do have that bed cover on my truck, and my tailgate lock. I know that the bed cover isnt theft proof but it does deter.
But I am trying figure something out for a permanent mount. I just don't want to hassle with it. I just want it constant and always giving a charge to the batteries when the truck is off (or when the controller activates the charge when needed)
Although I do want something permanent, I do like this idea for camping purposes.
I am thankful for your guys help, and brainstorming , please continue as I am trying too. I just want this to be a "once and done". I don't want to move it multiple times.
Let's hear more on the: "camping purposes" part because that likely would change things. Are you considering either: 1) using your starting batteries for a 12V source while camping, or 2) charging one or more deep cycle batteries while camping for 12V power (my advice)?
Because a "trickle charger" will not produce enough power for pretty much any "camping" type use: we'd need to step up to a more potent panel. I'd suggest considering your bed cover (if it is a hard cover) as a good spot for all purposes. There are thin film flexible panels that can be adhered to the bed cap and someone would have to take the whole thing to get the panel...
I didn't read through Sean's links but the general order of thinking for planning a solar installation (any) is you start with your total daily power needs (current and potential) from storage and work the problem (size the system) from there to replenish power used each day/night with the sunlight the next day. Most components will end up being oversized because you never design the system for optimal conditions (because they never are). That includes panel efficiency which heat, orientation, size, technology of panel, all play a role.
I won't go further until we know better what all we are trying to accomplish, ok?
Let's hear more on the: "camping purposes" part because that likely would change things. Are you considering either: 1) using your starting batteries for a 12V source while camping, or 2) charging one or more deep cycle batteries while camping for 12V power (my advice)?
Because a "trickle charger" will not produce enough power for pretty much any "camping" type use: we'd need to step up to a more potent panel. I'd suggest considering your bed cover (if it is a hard cover) as a good spot for all purposes. There are thin film flexible panels that can be adhered to the bed cap and someone would have to take the whole thing to get the panel...
I didn't read through Sean's links but the general order of thinking for planning a solar installation (any) is you start with your total daily power needs (current and potential) from storage and work the problem (size the system) from there to replenish power used each day/night with the sunlight the next day. Most components will end up being oversized because you never design the system for optimal conditions (because they never are). That includes panel efficiency which heat, orientation, size, technology of panel, all play a role.
I won't go further until we know better what all we are trying to accomplish, ok?
Camping Situation:
So, my wife and I have not purchased a trailer yet. We are planning on doing that this year late or next year. When we do purchase the trailer, I will plan on using a separate solar system that will be "A-framed" foldout style that I would hook up to the deep cycle batteries I will have for the trailer.
Truck Situation: I want this panel on the truck to be just for the truck. My cover on the bed of the truck is a tri-fold soft top. I didn't have the money for a hard top. And like I said before I want this to all be hooked up to the truck batteries in a permanent style, no plugging in or un-plugging.
I guess the more and more I think about it, I am not so opposed to mounting the panel to the roof. But I would be worried about wind gusts while driving, and it would obviously have to be "Weather Proof" not "Weather Resistant"
Here is a a pic of the side of the dash area I was thinking (light gray area), because it also has more than a 15 degree angle, but I am just worried about the heat in the summer time with the windows rolled up, and the loss of efficiency because of the window.
Most power output without having to use a larger panel.
Seems once you go over 10 watts that the panels get long and narrow.
Also, if I were to go roof mounted, does that mean I can't go through the touch-less car wash I usually go to?
I wouldn't go less than 10 watts either, 20 would be very nice. Can you figure out what they have as a surface? I'm not big on glass for your rooftop location, and would prefer something form fitting for a lot of reasons like wind noise, soooo.... Maybe we move back inside and think about: often we can get away with running panels together: series or parallel. I'm thinking along the lines of 2 or 3 - 5 watters (12v) in parallel; and hang with me here getting one of those dash carpet mats and attaching them to it, running the wires under the mat, and then through the firewall to the engine bay. I like you putting the controller in the bay, other than we don't want it to get too hot, but you can find weatherproof ones (a requirement for your application) that also do some temperature compensation. The latter at these power levels is just a nice to have thing.
ok, gotta' go work on the wife's manure spreader and will check back after you've chewed on this idea some...
That's less than a cell phone takes for charging, not sure that can even maintain the battery and then with it being blocked by the window reducing the UV rays. Probably more effort than its worth for less than the rated capacity.
I wouldn't go less than 10 watts either, 20 would be very nice. Can you figure out what they have as a surface? I'm not big on glass for your rooftop location, and would prefer something form fitting for a lot of reasons like wind noise, soooo.... Maybe we move back inside and think about: often we can get away with running panels together: series or parallel. I'm thinking along the lines of 2 or 3 - 5 watters (12v) in parallel; and hang with me here getting one of those dash carpet mats and attaching them to it, running the wires under the mat, and then through the firewall to the engine bay. I like you putting the controller in the bay, other than we don't want it to get too hot, but you can find weatherproof ones (a requirement for your application) that also do some temperature compensation. The latter at these power levels is just a nice to have thing.
ok, gotta' go work on the wife's manure spreader and will check back after you've chewed on this idea some...
So, after reading the installation instructions on the 10 watt panel, it is glass that theamorphous solar cells are on. Also, I can't seem to find one for sale anywhere on the internet.
I have been "chewing" on the idea of using the dash with multiple panels as you have purposed. But I just don't think I can come to terms with having more than one on the dash. And the only ones that seem to look decent for maximum watts is the 2.5 watt.
That's less than a cell phone takes for charging, not sure that can even maintain the battery and then with it being blocked by the window reducing the UV rays. Probably more effort than its worth for less than the rated capacity.
Well I don't think that's entirely correct. The milliamps that the panel are putting into the battery will be higher than the milliamps being drawn out, as long as you know how many are being drawn out of the battery before a purchase.
At Peak:
1.8W puts out 125 mA
5W puts out 350 mA
15w puts out 1 Amp
So this would be the reason for a 7 watt being the absolute lowest wattage to go with, as it will maintain, and keep them topped off.
- Preston
).
, please continue as I am trying too. I just want this to be a "once and done". I don't want to move it multiple times.
getting one of those dash carpet mats and attaching them to it, running the wires under the mat, and then through the firewall to the engine bay. I like you putting the controller in the bay, other than we don't want it to get too hot, but you can find weatherproof ones (a requirement for your application) that also do some temperature compensation. The latter at these power levels is just a nice to have thing.