Hello and greeting from San Diego. This is my first post at FTE but I hope it will be a good one for me.. and maybe others that need similar help.

I have been following a thread here about a melted down 6.0 that was mostly caused by neglect... or by bad egr.. or clogged oil cooler.. either way the engine is dead.. I have been following it with interest because even though I did not start the post, I am responsible for it.

It is about one of my work trucks that didn't get the care it needed. If you haven't read the post about it this week here is the link

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-housing.html

I am not sure why the engine cooked completely, but I am sure that I will be the guy writing the check to get us something to move steel in.

I have been working with what seems to be a very honest and competent truck service company here in San Diego and they are the ones who first posted here and I agree with everything in that post.. even that the blame falls to me for letting this nice truck die. This is not a mistake we will make again.

Here is my problem.. They have given me what I think is a high but decent estimate for installing a salvage yard engine complete. I have been learning a bit more about the 6.0 this week and have some thoughts.

A salvage yard engine will be as it came from Ford.. with the addition of maybe 100,000 to 200,000 miles.. and an unknown maintenance history. The price seems high for this kind of thing at over 7k. It would have the stock egr .. stock oil cooler.. stock stock rubbery head bolts and probably stock sand/coolant residue. (this is the 6.0 stuff I have picked up in the past few days to look out for). It is the unknown service history that worries me most. Especially at that price.

I have been looking at the Asheville 6.0 longblock rebuilt with the ARP studs and chromoly rods for around 5k. I would add to this the bulletproof improved EGR and Bulletproof oil cooler for somewhere around 2k. I would want to put on a coolant filter for 200 and the Hpop and oil temp gage kit for a few hundred more. Even if I need a turbo rebuild that would be another $500.00 or $1000 for a new one.

Here is where I need help from you guys who know so much more than me.

A 7k salvage yard motor with uknown history and mileage plus the install cost around 3k... and I end up with a truck that might run a long time or might not...

or 5K engine plus 2k bulletproof kit plus maybe 2k more for gaskets and maybe a turbo.. and I get a F-450 with no miles on the engine.. the truck itself is a great condition truck except the engine is toast.

If you guys can help me understand the things I am missing.. maybe after reading the linked thread. What major things might have died when it cooked that I am missing? Like.. could my hi press oil pump die? Even then I might add a new one onto the new long block.

Also.. in a ball park way... about how much more labor hours is stripping my old motor and putting that stuff on a new Asheville long block as opposed to stuffing a complete mystery salvage yard engine into my truck.

I would really appreciate any advice here as I am new to the 6.0 family and I would like to keep this truck on the road if it can at all make sense.

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my overly long first post. I will look forward to learning anything I can here.

Thanks again and Happy Holidays to you all.

6.0owner

 

If the engine is from 2005 or later, HPOP failures are very rare.

I have heard good things about asheville, but have not personally done any business with them.

If it were my truck, i would take the asheville engine over the junkyard one. I would make sure it has head studs, new oil cooler (if needed) and the stc fitting for the HPOP done before it went into the truck. Once in the truck, a coolant filter is an excellent idea. My new oil cooler was starting to plug up with whatever clogged the last one. My delta went from 4 degrees to 12-14 within a 4 month span. That was 5 months ago and the delta has not risen any higher since i put a coolant filter in. The first 2 filters had a bunch of mud-like crud and black grit in them, so i can personally say coolant filters are a must for these trucks. I changed the first one at under 1,000 miles (almost completely blocked up) and the 2nd at 3k miles. The 2nd was bad, but not as scary as the first. My coolant no longer has sediment when i take a sample from the drain valve under the radiator after it has been sitting.

BPD EGR cooler or a EGR delete aren't bad ideas either.

Good luck on the new engine.

Edit: I would not spend the extra money for the BPD oil cooler. A coolant filter will prevent future failure from the stock design. Stay away from the Dorman oil coolers. It's not worth the risk to save a few bucks.

 

7K for a junkyard unknown problems is a lot of coins for something you know nothing about the history of. Your not going to be much over that with the Asheville completely rebuilt fresh no miles engine with a warranty. If you go with the Asheville I would also replace the injectors and oil cooler. I recently put an Asheville in my 2004 I couldn't be happier so far, they are definitely good people to work with.

 

Because of you location I would send you to DieselTechRon for some help.
He really knows the engine and has been very helpful to everyone in the 6.0 world.

I can send you his contact number if you would like. I know you can't PM yet
but if you put you Email address in the system I can send you the info. BTW Ron
is in Hemet, CA. You should at least go have a chat with him.

Let me know if you want me to send you his number.




Merry Christmas


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

First of all whichever route you go with make sure they shop/tech knows the 6.0 inside and out and has a good reputation for it. Probably why Sean mentioned taking it to DT Ron.

If you decide to leave it where it is at, I too would choose the Ashville option over a salvaged engine.

 

I think your on the right track with your plans on replacing the engine. What a lot of people are forgetting, this engine was cooked good. Replacing everything in there is a good idea especially the HPOP, all the seals are most likely toasted and will let you down later. I'd call Ashville and see the price of a complete rebuild with all the goodies done, bet they have one. Never heard anything bad about customer service either. I have also saw their product in a friends truck thstgets worked everyday..........no problems to this day

 

Sean, I think that it would be great to talk to him. Either way I go here we are talking about what is for me a great big chunk of money. I think my email should be available now.

Please keep the comments coming here, I knew it would be a great place for me to learn about the 6.0.

 

As someone who replaced a motor (@135k/7yrs) that was a difficult decision for me (salvage motor/ford remain/sell as rolling chassis). In CA, at least you don't have the rust time bomb to deal with too.

I went with the Ford remain and the expectation I will keep the truck for 5 more years past the normal 10 year hold period for me. And sometimes I wonder.

A lot depends on your needed turn-around time. I still look at eBay and salvage sites for motors occasionally. It can take longer then it did 5 years ago, but there are decent motors that do turn up for less then the $7k you've mentioned. I remember about 7 months ago there was a Ford remain long block that went on eBay for $4500. I've seen what I consider good salvage motors in the $3500-$4000 range, but that also depends if the motor is still in the vehicle so you can see if it was "improved" with wheels and back window stickers so it may have had a tune in it. Mo-bet'r ain't necessarily more better.

Emergency services vehicle can be a good source, especially derated E-vans, but depending on the source they can have more hours idling then miles. The vehicle needs to be checked with a scanner for hours run if low miles.

It's a tough choice and I'm probably not making it easier here. The Ford remans are high priced as Ford does have tight QC but also puts a premium on anything that has their name attached - your paying for the name. Asheville appears to have a good rep.

People use the word "bulletproof" a lot about these motors. But like every motor, none are bulletproof. It's mostly about how good the maintenance is and observations of how a vehicle is running before a issue becomes a problem. The best advice is to use the best products. And you mentioned deleting the EGR. CA is not the state for deleting any pollution control equipment, and I personally don't prescribe to doing that anyway as the EGR is used as a boost blow-off and reduces the some of the violence of the combustion explosion, both of which that can reduce head gasket strain. But ARPs are a good idea.

And as a business, I don't know how your accountant has the vehicle depreciated, something you might want to address too.

 

Thanks Jack,

I wasn't going to delete the EGR, but go with a "bulletproof" brand improved EGR. I have a little time on this as we are going to be slow for the holidays (but hopefully busier after)
I think the from Ford engine is out of my price range as I may need injectors and a turbo also. Also, I do like the idea of the ARP's and Im pretty sure I wont get those in the Ford branded product.

I agree with the uneasy feeling on a mysterious salvage motor... I know it will come complete with injectors and hipop pump which will save me money.. for now.... but those aren't going to be new.

Thanks for the insight.

 

Supposedly the water pumps are made with plastic impellors and BPD has a replacement with aluminum ones. Since the engine will be out go ahead and do all the things that you want. I had a BPD egr installed in my 04 and its working well, they also installed a new oil cooler and then had all the latest TSB's done while at it. From the sounds of it you will run about the same either route and again you will probably be better off with the aftermarket engine. Potentially a better intercooler woul be a good choice even though you are not building a hot rod. My BIL had one installed on his 04 and he said made a big difference.

 

I'd stay away from salvage yard engines just because Ford built the same problems into all of them. We offer a properly remanufactured long block engine with upgraded 4130 chromoly push rods and ARP head studs starting at $4,895.
Other upgrades are available, all details, and prices are on our web site.

 

The reason I thought about Ron was to help guide you in your search.
Unless you do go with a rebuilt he would be the better choice for looking
at what you have and letting you know what can be services and what can't.




Merry Christmas


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Well that is odd.
I got the alert email that someone posted after I did and even quoted my post.
It was not even a span or hate mail type and now it's gone?




Merry Christmas


Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

It seems that going with Asheville Engine is a no brainer. Not sure what you might be questioning when the unknown salvage is more $$ than the quality rebuild. Did I read it wrong? Hope it goes well though. Subbed....

 

Thanks again all who have posted with some help here... I have some numbers to kick out...

If I go with a rebuilt from Ashville... plus some parts I am sure to need I am looking at close (replacing stuff since the engine is out like hipop etc) to 10k including install from a local shop. This would be without a new injection system.. no new turbo.. no new egr/oil cooler.. and an unknown amount of other stuff that might be damaged due to neglect. I think this comes with a one year parts only warranty. I am really worried that pretty much everything that might have touched the old oil.. or been affected by the heat that was hot enough to turn my oil filter standpipe to liquid.. could be close to toasted.

Option B is a drop in complete from Ford. This includes turbo and all injection parts... pretty much everything that could have been cooked.. and comes with a 2 year parts and labor warranty. Option B is about 15k.

I plan to keep the truck for a few years. We only put on about 5,000 miles per year as we use this truck only for our heavy lifting.

Either way I am going to put on a coolant filter system. If I go the rebuilt way I will need to put on an improved egr/cooler systam and might be looking down a long dark hole until this truck runs again.

If I go new Ford I plan to only do the coolant filter and leave the EGR/cooler system stock as I don't want to give them any "easy outs" on the warranty.

What do you guys think?

Thanks,

6.0owner