I have read the following, and its given me a good starting place on diagnosing my transmission symptoms:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...d-i-found.html

However, I haven't seen anything quite similar to my symptoms today (on a truck I just bought a month ago - ouch):

1992 F250 HD XLT 4x4 460 auto (obviously); 152,000 miles

* flushed and changed all fluids, incl. trans., after purchase. Fluid "normal" red, but smelled burnt.

* no weird sounds or symptoms after about 1000 miles driving, until today. No fluids leaking (not a single drop).

* All gauges normal, no indicators lit at time of failure


I'm at 65mph on slight downhill grade, having driven about 50 miles on 2-lane road, hear a brief "woosh" over the radio volume. I shut off radio to see if sound repeats - nothing. Coming onto flat section, slowing down, throttling with no effect except RPM's up (the woosh), realize I have no transmission - zero. Coast to verge, shifting through all forwards - nada. Reverse - nada. Slight grind/ping sound putting it back into Park.

Next the tow truck episode - back to nearest town (but still about 100 miles from home). Tech jumps in cab, truck still on flatbed, and levers into both forward and reverse - truck pulls on chains both directions, so tranny engaging again. This is about 1.5 hours after incident - so everything is cooled off (like 30 degrees outside). So high temperature seems likely candidate as cause? Mechanic at small local ASE shop starts cursing the E4OD as the worst idea Ford ever had... says, based on that little bit of info I provided, its shot. He says it'll probably run fine while cold for short distances, but problem will repeat and be worse in summer, and that tranny replace is indicated.

From reading these forums, seems like I should start by checking connections on EEC and TPS for wear, grunge, etc. But if they are OK, any suggestions what next order of tests (short of pulling codes)? Its dark here now, but tomorrow AM need to try and decide how much I can diagnose myself (with you guys' help), versus when to punt and have a pro take a look - or go buy code deally bob.

Thanks for any tips and clues you might have.

 

That hints at a transfer case problem, but on the other hand I've never seen a transfer case quit and then work again later. I suppose it's possible that the transfer case shifted to N and then back agin.

That's not a bad thing to do, but it will NOT fix this problem. There is NOTHING electrical that could cause no gears. Nothing. Unless you have an electrically shifted transfer case....

Sell the truck as is. Seriously, if you're not willing use the best diagnostic tool on the truck there is not much help that I can offer.

You could do this to read the codes: Ford OBD Trouble Codes ?

The one thing that I can think of that you could check are the clutch feed bolts. They are inside the pan under the valve body. If they loosen you can get symptoms similar to what you're seeing.

 

I'd get a gauge on it and check the press,when cold and hot, and hopefully when having the prob also.

 

Thanks Mark, the comment regarding no electrical issue will cause zero gears condition helps me focus. As to code puller - it's not that I don't want to use it - just don't have one (yet), and trying to decide DIY vs. pro help at this point. Truck has a "warranty" for 3 months/3.000 miles from seller, who has an ASE shop too, so trying to second guess what they might do. Warranty has a cap'd dollar amount for drive train at $2000, so deciding whether to push for remfg. tranny (and xfer case now - lol), versus possible fiddling about and more strandings if they try half-measures. Even if I have to cough up $1000-2000 over the cap, thinking that three best course given mileage and unknown history. Bought for $4200, book at $6700-ish, so thinking not too badly upside down if I just go ahead and replace with remfg and get 3 year warranty?

Again - thanks for the help!

 

Thanks to you also Brianshop, will keep that idea in the mix of II can't get any joy from the seller and sellers warranty approach



ThQUOTE=Briansshop;15869499]I'd get a gauge on it and check the press,when cold and hot, and hopefully when having the prob also.[/QUOTE]

 

sounds like a bad t-case.they're a dime a dozen.toss a used one in and run 'er.

 

And that's also the opinion of the dealers' mechanic, where I took it for warranty repair. Thanks for the advice, as I was able to pass that along and not sound like the complete Ford truck noob that I really am! It's repaired, and I'm on my way to get it. Hopefully problem solved.