Earlier this year I got a power distribution box out of a Ford Escape I think it came out of a '09. I have yet to try to mount it in my truck because I am having a hard time finding the proper tool to release the terminals in the box as well as find the terminals themselves.


Does anyone here know what terminal release tool I would need?


Does anyone also know what terminals I would need for this box for both the fuses and he relays as well as the diodes and the square box fuses?

 

I've been fooling with removing and replacing those sorts of terminals as well as re-purposing connectors for a while now----bought a kit like this: Its a bit of overkill but as a newbie to all this it seemed like the do-all solution for working with factory terminals.

The terminals and some tools can be found here: ClipsAndFasteners.com - Automotive Retainers,Clips and Fasteners

Mouser.com also has many, many of these same type terminals but that site does require a bit of experience and know-how to sort through the millions listed in their catalogs.

Not sure this is helpful but its what I know so far.

 

Thanks for the reply. I will check it out later tonight when I get home from work. I have been putting this power box off too long because I cant figure out what I need to get the terminals to release nor what terminals I would need. I could splice in and solder the wires to new wire but I really want to gut everything and custom wire everything from scratch to make it easier.


Ive also been thinking about trying to find a smaller power box as this one is just too big and too heavy. I don't really need this many circuits just two relays one for high one or low beam, one relay for flood lights and one relay for spot lights. This box I have has seven regular relays and three micro relays.

 

Hella and a company called MTI have automotive-suitable fuse and relay boxes so that's one way to go as you could custom configure one to suit your present needs as well as accommodate future expansions too.

I've used both, they sell good terminals for their boxes which makes the whole process much simpler.

Good luck with all this---its both fun and challenging too!

 

It is. On Monday I took the box to work and after lunch I figured out how you get the terminals out so I know what the terminals look like but even with everything gutted from the box it still feels heavy. The engine builder that works next doors to us told me I could always hack off the part I don't need. I didn't think about that. Down side is the cover would not fit then but thing is though I only gave like $10 for this box with all motorcraft relays so even if I end up getting a universal box that is smaller that would be more fitting for my needs it would be no big deal as I can reuse the motorcraft parts.

 

Take a look at these guys:


www.painlessperformance.com


You might just find what you need.

 

Thanks for the link I looked at Ron Francis and saw the high prices I forgot about Painless.


I see they have a 7 circuit two relay box. That would work especially if I piggyback my two auxiliary light circuits off the power from the highbeam relay. Only thing is it doesn't have a mega fuse built into it like what I was really looking at. I guess what I could do is mount this some wheres under the dash and just mount a mega fuse box on the fender under the hood.

 

Summit has a house brand wiring kit, I installed one in a Wagoneer. I liked it so much I cut it back out when I scrapped that pile.

 

Look like I wont be needing this. I will be getting more of a universal style box I found on Ebay which doesn't require special crimpers. So I can just use the ones I have currently.


Would have liked to use this box but just too heavy and I don't need all those relays and fuses.

 

I got the crimp terminals to go up through the bottom of the box that allow you to plug a fuse in from Napa. I had to file each side of the terminal to get it to fit though, and I used an Ideal ratchet crimper to get a good crimp. Be sure to use Marine grade tinned wire and it wouldn't hurt to put a little solder on after the crimp.

 

I have the PowerBuilt terminal tool set JWA linked to on Amazon and have been very pleased with the results. Bought it back in 2012 for my RX7 and it was the first tool reviewed on the RX7club here:
Powerbuilt #641448 Master Terminal Tool Kit - WNII - RX7Club.com

I've disassembled a few underhood fuse boxes with it to be re-purposed for more creative uses. The one in my 20B RX7 actually is a modified Durango one that I completely rewired, replacing the Volkswagen panel setup I had before. It turns out that Chrysler and Mazda were both very fond of using Yazaki connectors in their products. A little intrinsic study, a couple of emails and I had a list of every terminal used in the box.

I couldn't find a 2009 Escape box on ebay to put under the microscope, but this 2012 one says a lot (09 is the same, I just found out): 2012 Ford Escape 3 0L AWD Engine Compartment Fuse Box OEM 118F | eBay

The Fusible Link cartridge fuses are the same as in my modified box, same with the micro fuses. Terminals both look the same as mine too. BTW, the fusible links use the same style of terminal that my original 1987 RX7 box uses, just slightly smaller to package more stuff easily inside the Escape/Durango boxes. Doesn't look too hard to take apart, a standard 3-piece clamshell case. Biggest issue I see will be the terminal locks, they're usually a PITA to remove correctly and have to be removed before de-pinning can begin. Something I should point out is that it APPEARS that there are front terminal locks on the box too (the gray things that the fuses/relays fit in). Since I've never dissected one exactly like this, I can't say for certain what the process is untill I play around with it.

As for crimpers, I use this kind: Ace Crimping Tool - Electrical Tools - Ace Hardware
Mine is slightly different as the non-insulated terminal dies are at the nose, but it works just the same. Between this and a decent pair of needle nose pliers to finesse things a little where needed (such as Metripack wire seals), you should be all set and for far less $$$ than you thought. I have a pair of needle nose pliers that I only use for wiring, made by Lion Tool in Taiwan sometime in the late 80s

 

Have to politely disagree with you most vehemently Sir---no way in holy hell that type tool works anywhere near as good as the ratcheting type. Even with non-insulated terminals that type tool just isn't the same.

The crimp quality is 100% dependent on the operator which is not the best way to effect this sort of connection. Saving money is important but not as important as making solid, dependable and reliable connections.

 

I really dislike that style of all in one, I have a pair of Klein pliers that do a very good job crimping. I do manage to avoid most crimping, however, by using self soldering heat shrink connectors wherever I can. I was introduced to those working on potato hauling trucks, they are great for preventing corrosion.
For terminal connections, though, you can't use that style, you need the proper crimper.

 

Let me clarify in that my crimper has the dies positioned slightly different than the one I linked to. The example I previously illustrated for years seems to have disappeared. I've not used a ratcheting crimper before, so I have no firsthand experience to draw from on this. If it work for ya, more power to ya.

But I do agree 110% with you JWA in that the end result is entirely dependant upon which is the tool: the crimper to the one using the crimper

Before this turns into a crimp vs solder debate, I think we can all agree that a properly done crimp is fine, and a properly done solder joint is fine. This is assuming both are sheathed and supported properly. I'm not too well-versed with a soldering iron, so I lean towards crimping in most cases. But when it comes to anything over 8awg, I am an absolute stickler for soldering. About a week ago, I needed to redo the ground and battery/starter cables on my truck. Went down to the welding supply store and had them make up five 4awg cables for me for $21 using a crimper like this:
As soon as I got home, my cat got ahold of one cable and knocked one lug off by swatting at it. While she is a big fluffy Maine Coone weighing 12lbs, she is not particularly aggressive and is de-clawed (by a previous owner) on her front paws.

So I tested the crimp quality of the remaining 9 lugs, 7 failed with almost no effort and the other 2 were marginally passable. With some careful re-shaping, they were reusable. Fill the cup with short strips of 95/5 solder, heat with a butane torch, then add more untill it's 2/3 full and shove in the cable. After it cools, cover any exposed wire with dielectric grease and then heat shrink the whole connection.

On these, I took it a step further by tagging each one with red/green/blue/white electrical tape, a label to indicate function and clear heat shrink to seal everything permanently. Add in a 304 stainless steel bus bar to tie all the grounds together cleanly and my usual trademark Marine Battery Terminals. Result is a system far better than stock, much easier to service and took minimal effort to do as the battery tray already had a good mounting spot for the bus bar straight down from the negative terminal.

Quality of Work > Cost