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Right off of bush lake road and old Shakopee, I have actually found it to be a very nice area. Moved here from Burnsville and it is a much much easier commute to work.
Smoke alarm system went NUTS at 0330 waking up the entire house. Couldn't tell which one was doing it, but they were all wired together and going off at once. Ended up taking all of them down for the evening so we could get back to sleep. My ears were ringing for an hour after that, it was rather uncalled for.
We figured out yesterday that my wife's Odyssey doesn't produce as much heat as we would like. My F150 will bake your fingers off if given the chance, but the Ody with its 170 degree thermostat feels lukewarm in comparison when it gets cold out.
Asked a warmer thermostat on an Odyssey forum last night and was told that I'm trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.
Wife's car is fixed now to locate a fender for the Buick. Hutch salvage had one but someone backed into it with the loader. I think I may have located one closer but waiting on a call back.
Gotcha. I looked at my suppliers and none list warmer than 172. Fits 93-12 V6 engines though. Those engines are prone to head gaskets failure on one slight overheat, so I don't know that you'd want to go warmer. At 170 it should still put out plenty warm heat though. Perhaps the thermostat is just sticking?
Dave / Tom - that really is an "Oddity".... I have not heard of an OEM Thermstat cooler than 192 degrees in the last 30 years....
If the stat is stuck open, that would do it... Maybe put some cardboard in front of the radiator as a short term fix but watch the temp...
Gotcha. I looked at my suppliers and none list warmer than 172. Fits 93-12 V6 engines though. Those engines are prone to head gaskets failure on one slight overheat, so I don't know that you'd want to go warmer. At 170 it should still put out plenty warm heat though. Perhaps the thermostat is just sticking?
Thanks Dave. Rockauto shows a Beck/Arnley "alternate temperature" 180-degree thermostat, but that's the only one I could find. I don't think it's sticking, but I haven't monitored temperatures in this van since the summer. Temperature gauge is going to the normal range though.
Dave / Tom - that really is an "Oddity".... I have not heard of an OEM Thermstat cooler than 192 degrees in the last 30 years....
If the stat is stuck open, that would do it... Maybe put some cardboard in front of the radiator as a short term fix but watch the temp...
Most of the Japanese cars these days run low temperature tstats. Some American cars too. Especially the all aluminum block stuff.
Dave / Tom - that really is an "Oddity".... I have not heard of an OEM Thermstat cooler than 192 degrees in the last 30 years....
If the stat is stuck open, that would do it... Maybe put some cardboard in front of the radiator as a short term fix but watch the temp...
I could hardly believe it too Randy! I first realized that when I monitored the temperatures for the first time over the summer, the engine wanted to stabilize out around 171 degrees. Thinking something was wrong I looked it up, and sure enough it's performing as designed.
Some all aluminum engines run really warm too. The Pentastar V6 in a Grand Caravan has a 203-degree thermostat. As does the 5.0L Coyote engine. Hrmmm....maybe time for an engine swap?
Most of the Japanese cars these days run low temperature tstats. Some American cars too. Especially the all aluminum block stuff.
That has to really suck for emissions and fuel economy... Running cooler thermostats will take us back to the sludge buckets we drove in the 50-70's...
Getting all aluminum (head and block) to seal up is generally not a problem. Iron heads on an aluminum block is a bit more of a problem than sealing an aluminum head to an iron block. Rates of expansion are so different between iron and aluminum I am always amazed to think about the engineering that went into the marriages of the two.
That has to really suck for emissions and fuel economy... Running cooler thermostats will take us back to the sludge buckets we drove in the 50-70's...
Getting all aluminum (head and block) to seal up is generally not a problem. Iron heads on an aluminum block is a bit more of a problem than sealing an aluminum head to an iron block. Rates of expansion are so different between iron and aluminum I am always amazed to think about the engineering that went into the marriages of the two.
It's always amazed me how successful modern engines have been with dissimilar materials. The modular V8s have married iron blocks with aluminum heads for two decades, and head gaskets are a rare thing to fail. The 6.7L PSD and new 2.7L EB have CGI blocks and aluminum heads.
The van in question has an aluminum block and heads, so I wouldn't think this would be much of an issue. Found a thread about people installing a 180-degree stat in the previous generation and everyone seems to be happy with the result. The cooling fan doesn't come on until 208 degrees, so I would think a 180-degree stat would still keep things in an appropriate range.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.