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I've posted about this before. What the hell is going on with my degas bottles? I got almost a year out of this Motorcraft 1. 6months out of the previous Motorcraft 1. 2 or 3 Napa ones in 6 months, 1 of which lasted all of 2 or 3 weeks. New caps every time. Has never puked. no mixing of any fluids. coolant smells like coolant, no exhaust smell. Runs great gets 14-15 mpg.
They all develop a verticle crack along the reinforcing rib right above the main inlet on the bottom.
Please post some photos of how it's installed.
Get some of the hoses and the "Y" connector.
Is the tail on the bottle going into it's hole at the back? If the
bottle will sit high and add some stress to the hose connection
and may cause problems.
Are you the first owner of this truck?
Do you use any chemicals to clean the engine bay?
Does it look like the hoses are under any stress?
Just to verify. Check both engine mounts to see that they are still
in good shape and the engine is not rocking and twisting the bottle.
I would take the MC one back and see if they will
warrantee it. They may ask for the receipt.
Do you monitor the ECT? Just to be sure, I would put a thermometer in it after it has been driven hard. You can vent the degas bottle when it is pressurized as long as you do it slowly and carefully (you can put a towel around it for added safety). You want to make sure that it isn't getting too hot.
Please post some photos of how it's installed.
Get some of the hoses and the "Y" connector.
Is the tail on the bottle going into it's hole at the back? If the
bottle will sit high and add some stress to the hose connection
and may cause problems.
Are you the first owner of this truck?
Do you use any chemicals to clean the engine bay?
Does it look like the hoses are under any stress?
Just to verify. Check both engine mounts to see that they are still
in good shape and the engine is not rocking and twisting the bottle.
I would take the MC one back and see if they will
warrantee it. They may ask for the receipt.
Do you monitor the ECT? Just to be sure, I would put a thermometer in it after it has been driven hard. You can vent the degas bottle when it is pressurized as long as you do it slowly and carefully (you can put a towel around it for added safety). You want to make sure that it isn't getting too hot.
Sure do! Use a scangauge
Occasionally ect might hit 215* if I'm using tow haul up a hill. Usually stays right around 200* even with a Mishimoto stat. Even towing the travel trailer in the white mountains the highest it got was 220*.
I'll verify the temp with a handheld thermometer
Last edited by samsdad02; Nov 17, 2015 at 07:16 AM.
Reason: Forgot
Sure do! Use a scangauge
Occasionally ect might hit 215* if I'm using tow haul up a hill. Usually stays right around 200* even with a Mishimoto stat. Even towing the travel trailer in the white mountains the highest it got was 220*.
Are you sure when you release the spring clamp you aren't letting the tension of the spring force the pliers or vise grips into that spot?? I see a bunch of them cracked.
Are you sure when you release the spring clamp you aren't letting the tension of the spring force the pliers or vise grips into that spot?? I see a bunch of them cracked.
^He Knows^ They do crack all the time. Weak design, especially if you are moving them around, pulling on hoses, etc.
Are you sure when you release the spring clamp you aren't letting the tension of the spring force the pliers or vise grips into that spot?? I see a bunch of them cracked.
Are you replacing it with the stock bottle or the new one. On the stock minimum is the maximum. Theres another one that is corrected for the levels. How full do you fill it? I don't know if that could affect it but if your not doing it its good to start.
I'm no expert by any means but if it were my truck I would only have one of those clamps on and I wouldn't put it so far back on the tube. Maybe its putting too much stress on the plastic when you tighten it... just a thought.
I'm no expert by any means but if it were my truck I would only have one of those clamps on and I wouldn't put it so far back on the tube. Maybe its putting too much stress on the plastic when you tighten it... just a thought.
I thought that too (forgot to mention)
Also stock only had one and it was a different style clamp. Maybe buy the stock clamp to be safe?
Hose has a given turn radius for the size. Your host is turned way too sharp.
This may be do the that hose clamp and connector in the heater return line.
As proff of what I am saying look at the first two photos and see how the hose
on the bottle outlet are bunching up on the lower side. That will put a lot of
stress on the outlet and over time crack.
So add some hose to the total length of the heater return and then make sure
to check where it lays in the back. They can fall onto the FICM and rub. Put something
over the hose to keep the FICM from rubbing a hole in the hose.
You have 3 options
1 Add a 2nd splice and some hose. New leak points.
2 New hose assemble. $$$$ Ford
3 Remove the heater return and have new hose crimped on by a hydraulic shop.
Myself I would go with #3. It's the in between cost option and should give a
good payback.
Here is a photo I took for someone that also had a leak. You can see the crimp
for the hose in the back ground.
This first one is hard to see unless you zoom in. Look for the spring clamp behind the oil dipstick "T" handle.
Here is these you can see the hose and the crimp and the plastic loom covering the hose to keep it safe.
