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As mentioned above, any 3wire sensor on the engine could short vRef and cause a shut down. If possible monitor the reference voltage when it's having a issue, or even easier disconnect the EBP sensor and see if the issue clears. EBP is a common culprit so this is a bit of a guess. You will get a check engine light and the turbo may act a little different built it should run fine.
Pardon my ignorance on this, but would we still have an EBP after an EGR delete kit installed?
Yes. EBP sensor is Exhaust Back Pressue. It's on the driver side exhaust manifold on the end of a metal tube. Simply unplug it to rule it out. troubleshooting intermittent issues can be a headache.
Yes. EBP sensor is Exhaust Back Pressue. It's on the driver side exhaust manifold on the end of a metal tube. Simply unplug it to rule it out. troubleshooting intermittent issues can be a headache.
Called the shop and they had already checked it.
I saw an old thread where someone had a similar issue ( shutoff, able to restart)and it was ultimately the power distribution block. How would you test this?
If you suspect accelerator/circuit issues, the only way to pinpoint is to connect a scan tool to monitor the three potentiometer PIDs while moving the accelerator pedal through its entire range of travel. Two should increase voltage and one should decrease in voltage, all three in the same proportion if I recall correctly. If any one falls outside of the parameters, the engine will default to idle only operation.
Originally Posted by lauraj
We have an SCT for programming the PCM that also reads codes. Would this work or do we need to take it in to the shop to have this checked?
Thanks!
I can tell you that the SCT does not have the ability to check this.
The AE might and I know for a fact that IDS does.
Other scanners may be able to check this. Like Mike said you need to
look at all 3 of the of the potentiometers to see what is going on.
The problem with the Vref at the EBP sensor drove (acf6)Miles just about to
the point of getting a can of gas and torching his truck. I know that he
tried all sorts of things and replaced a few of the harness sets. After I
replaced the injector harness on mine it was acting funny. Chaffed wire
at the EBP sensor and once I fixed that all has been more or less good.
Finally died for the mechanic and left him stranded. Turns out the alternator is bad.
At least you now know. I'd suggest keeping a close eye on the FICM moving forward for the next several months. Bad alternators kill these modules every day, sadly.
In case it helps, we are running a promotion as part of the Thanksgiving / Black Friday sale time - buy a 190 amp alternator and get a free $80 upgrade to the 250 amp unit. It's a pretty amazing deal.
If you suspect accelerator/circuit issues, the only way to pinpoint is to connect a scan tool to monitor the three potentiometer PIDs while moving the accelerator pedal through its entire range of travel. Two should increase voltage and one should decrease in voltage, all three in the same proportion if I recall correctly. If any one falls outside of the parameters, the engine will default to idle only operation.
if one fails you should get CEL but be able to drive on. it's when 2 fail that you get the idle only - which is much safer than getting sudden full-power surges in heavy traffic...
Ran great to Mom's house. Had some great Turkey, good family visit, and on the way home, on the highway, just dies.
hubby manages to get over to the shoulder and tries to start several times, finally lights up, but the check engine light is on. We go a few miles further and it dies again. Got it started, but not until we had slowed way down ( hubby put it in N, it did not start the first time until very slow either). 2 miles further and it died again. After slowing, got it started and it purred all the way home, about another 20 miles, with the check engine light on.
Once in the driveway, we turned the truck off and checked codes.
P0231 Low Voltage Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit
P2617 Crankshaft Position Output Circuit Open
Cleared codes, turned off key and restarted truck. Cranked right up and check engine light gone.
Turned off truck, reattached scanner, read codes. No codes now. Starts fine.
EDIT : Well crap I forgot the PDF. I got the other one done for you also.
Thanks Yahiko! We are leaning toward the fuel system. I did notice this under the P2617 procedure:
Note: DTCs P0336 and P2617 are calibrated to an increment counter. To set a DTC, greater than
10 consecutive fault events in the crank or run mode are required.
We did have approx 10 stalls over the last week, so I am thinking that P2617 is a result of that. The P231 was the first code we got when all this started at the beginning. Will have the shop check these out on Monday.
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