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No throttle response

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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #1  
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No throttle response

Good Morning!

2007 F360 6.0L 230,000 miles

Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.

This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.

Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.

Ideas? Suggestions??

Thanks!!

Laura
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 01:40 PM
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If you suspect accelerator/circuit issues, the only way to pinpoint is to connect a scan tool to monitor the three potentiometer PIDs while moving the accelerator pedal through its entire range of travel. Two should increase voltage and one should decrease in voltage, all three in the same proportion if I recall correctly. If any one falls outside of the parameters, the engine will default to idle only operation.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 07:41 PM
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Mine did the same thing after i put the cab back on. I didnt plug the wires back in all the way on the driver side inner fender well i would start the truck and move some wires around to see if it will repeat. A remember researching this also when mine did it it is a fourm of limp mode. I also read it could be the pedal switch.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
If you suspect accelerator/circuit issues, the only way to pinpoint is to connect a scan tool to monitor the three potentiometer PIDs while moving the accelerator pedal through its entire range of travel. Two should increase voltage and one should decrease in voltage, all three in the same proportion if I recall correctly. If any one falls outside of the parameters, the engine will default to idle only operation.

We have an SCT for programming the PCM that also reads codes. Would this work or do we need to take it in to the shop to have this checked?

Thanks!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Archy
Mine did the same thing after i put the cab back on. I didnt plug the wires back in all the way on the driver side inner fender well i would start the truck and move some wires around to see if it will repeat. A remember researching this also when mine did it it is a fourm of limp mode. I also read it could be the pedal switch.

Thanks! Will check those wires.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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If you use the adjustable pedals quite often, wiring is the problem.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Or one of the sensors that share the same reference voltage could be shorting out causing a forced idle. Mine did it once, the degas tank was cracked and leaking on top of the EBP sensor, shorting it out, and all it would do is idle. Probably not what's going on, but possible.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by John Irwin
Or one of the sensors that share the same reference voltage could be shorting out causing a forced idle. Mine did it once, the degas tank was cracked and leaking on top of the EBP sensor, shorting it out, and all it would do is idle. Probably not what's going on, but possible.
Well, the degas tank DID recently (2-3 mo ago) have a leak and was replaced. Maybe it took awhile for damage to show up......

Laura
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
If you use the adjustable pedals quite often, wiring is the problem.

The pedal is not moved at all. Hubby and son are tall so pedal is all the way back. I just move the seat forward when I drive it.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 02:12 PM
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EBP wire chafing under the degas bottle took out my throttle. As I recall several sensors share a common ground and any of them could cause loss of throttle. A quick visual of sensor wires might yield a quick fix.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 07:29 PM
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I will have hubby take a look at the sensors you all mentioned.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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When one of them shorts out, you should get all kinds of codes from everything on the 5 volt reference system. I have AE on my laptop, and there were codes everywhere, and the gas pedal numbers were all screwed up. Probably isn't your problem, but it's always nice to have lots of ideas.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 08:53 AM
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Good morining,

Still having issues, been at the shop since Thursday.

Took it to the shop because while driving, it literally just shut off three times a few days after the issues I described above happened. It did restart each time. Not throwing codes. Shop has driven it multiple times with no problem. Checked multiple sensors, looked for chafed wiring. Nothing.

Need some clues. Anybody????
 
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 09:21 AM
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I am googling......what about the STC??

Since the redesign of the high pressure oil pump for 2005 and newer Power Stroke diesel engines the "snap-to-connect" or STC fitting used to connect the high pressure oil pump to the oil supply branch tube has been problematic. The two piece fittings have a tendency to flex causing wear on the seal and the locking ring resulting in leaks and occasionally the complete separation of the fitting. When a leak occurs at this fitting, the engine may be difficult to start or may not start at all. Depending on the severity of the leak the engine may stall, sometimes abruptly and without warning.
HPOP was changed 2-3 years ago......

Prior to the shutting off issue, but after the uncontrolled idle, hubby did have 1 hard/slow start...
 
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 11:31 AM
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As mentioned above, any 3wire sensor on the engine could short vRef and cause a shut down. If possible monitor the reference voltage when it's having a issue, or even easier disconnect the EBP sensor and see if the issue clears. EBP is a common culprit so this is a bit of a guess. You will get a check engine light and the turbo may act a little different built it should run fine.
 
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