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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Possible FICM problems

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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #31  
Yahiko's Avatar
Yahiko
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From: Spanaway
Just show her the "New" payment for the same truck and maybe she will quiet down.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 03:42 PM
  #32  
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timmytoes
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After pulling the standpipes and dummy plugs, the drivers sidelooked ok but when I pulled the SP on the passenger side, only the top of it came out. Had to pull the oil rail to get the rest out and it was stuck in there pretty bad. Is that very common? I ended up clamping some vise grips on it and getting it out but dang, it wore me out.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2015 | 11:00 PM
  #33  
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Yahiko
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From: Spanaway
Normal.

They make a tool for that but at all most $300 I said HELL NO.

But you can make one with some simple parts and works quite well.
Here is the photos on the one I made. 1/4 #20 cap screw with a thumb ****
and some gas rubber hose to work as the grip. Then 2 aluminum stand-offs for
spacing to reach through the oil rail. You want the hose snug on the bolt so you
can spin the thumb screw down and expand the rubber hose to fill the inside
and let you extract the lower stand pipe section. Like I said works really well.
Just clean the oil off the rubber after use.

BTW the aluminum stand-off is really just a rivnut that fits over the cap screw



1 Stand pipe puller



2 Stand pipe puller




3 Stand pipe puller



If you ever wanted to know what's in the top section of the stand pipe. It's a
snubber/anti-drain back valve. One of the reasons an air test can take so long from
one side to the other.



1 Stand pipe top section


Hope this helps you and anyone else out that needs it.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 05:35 PM
  #34  
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timmytoes
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From: Central Arkansas
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Normal.

They make a tool for that but at all most $300 I said HELL NO.

But you can make one with some simple parts and works quite well.
Here is the photos on the one I made. 1/4 #20 cap screw with a thumb ****
and some gas rubber hose to work as the grip. Then 2 aluminum stand-offs for
spacing to reach through the oil rail. You want the hose snug on the bolt so you
can spin the thumb screw down and expand the rubber hose to fill the inside
and let you extract the lower stand pipe section. Like I said works really well.
Just clean the oil off the rubber after use.

BTW the aluminum stand-off is really just a rivnut that fits over the cap screw



1 Stand pipe puller



2 Stand pipe puller




3 Stand pipe puller



If you ever wanted to know what's in the top section of the stand pipe. It's a
snubber/anti-drain back valve. One of the reasons an air test can take so long from
one side to the other.



1 Stand pipe top section


Hope this helps you and anyone else out that needs it.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
Thanks for the info Sean! I'm wondering if that had anything to do with my no starts while hot. The o rings were not too bad. One was a little messed up but i guess it didn't hurt to go ahead and upgrade them anyway. I ordered them from Ed and they got them out fast. It's so nice to see someone run a business like they do at FICM Repair.
Again, I sure appreciate your help.
 
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