How to pull fuel relay
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
How to pull fuel relay
How do you pull the fuel relay of a 91 F250 5.0.
I cant get it out, must be some kind of trick
Also is there a link on how to test your fuel relay
Thank you
I cant get it out, must be some kind of trick
Also is there a link on how to test your fuel relay
Thank you
Last edited by Chefsteele; Jan 9, 2014 at 05:03 PM. Reason: add text
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
It should just pull out. They are tight but use a pliers to grab it, or rock it back & forth. My 95 has 3 other relays that are the same so swapping them is how I check them. They seldom go bad from my experience. What is your problem?
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Senior User
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
I thought I would just check some relays wail waiting for my new ECM.
you have any input?
Last edited by Chefsteele; Jan 9, 2014 at 05:15 PM. Reason: add text
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Senior User
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
I don't have a pressure gauge. I did jump the pins to run the fuel pump, had chock fuel come out
Last edited by Chefsteele; Jan 9, 2014 at 05:23 PM. Reason: correct spelling
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,785
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From: Kentucky
The difference between 10 PSI and 35 PSI of fuel is not measurable by the human eye. The former will not start an engine, the latter will. You really need to test the fuel pressure. At the very least swap the relays as suggested before.
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
If I can only get the relay out, that bugger is tight. I have the plug off but cant get the relay off
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,666
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From: Easton,Ks
The fuel pump relay should have a release tabs. The tabs is what holds the socket of the relay into the relays cover. You have to pry the tabs back and pull the relay out. Not easy.
After it is out you can pull the relay away from the socket.
But if the fuel pump runs when you short pin #6 to pin #2 of the self-test connector the relay should be good.
Note the tabs on the side of the relay in the photo below, they are Black in the photo below.
The green tabs will relase the relay from the socket.
/
After it is out you can pull the relay away from the socket.
But if the fuel pump runs when you short pin #6 to pin #2 of the self-test connector the relay should be good.
Note the tabs on the side of the relay in the photo below, they are Black in the photo below.
The green tabs will relase the relay from the socket.
/
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
The fuel pump relay should have a release tabs. The tabs is what holds the socket of the relay into the relays cover. You have to pry the tabs back and pull the relay out. Not easy.
After it is out you can pull the relay away from the socket.
But if the fuel pump runs when you short pin #6 to pin #2 of the self-test connector the relay should be good.
/
After it is out you can pull the relay away from the socket.
But if the fuel pump runs when you short pin #6 to pin #2 of the self-test connector the relay should be good.
/
I am going to town tomorrow, I do need a pressure tester
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
That's typical of an ignition problem. Sounds like either the ignition coil or the PIP in the distributor. I followed your other thread, so I'm aware of the problems you had. I don't mean to sidetrack you, just saying you COULD be barking up the wrong tree. Good luck getting to the bottom of your problem.
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Senior User
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
That's typical of an ignition problem. Sounds like either the ignition coil or the PIP in the distributor. I followed your other thread, so I'm aware of the problems you had. I don't mean to sidetrack you, just saying you COULD be barking up the wrong tree. Good luck getting to the bottom of your problem.
How can I test PIP in the distributor? do you call the distributor a dizzy?
do you think the distributor from my 351 block will fit the 302?
I will try anything to get my truck on the road and dependable
thank you for your help
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
Yes the distributor is sometimes called a dizzy. I don't think the 302 and 351 distributors are interchangeable. At any rate, make sure any replacement distributor has the same material of drive gear, steel or cast iron, some years come with both materials and they are not interchangeable. If you use a drive gear of the wrong material, you will quickly destroy the camshaft drive gear and virtually need a major engine repair.
As far as testing the PIP in the distributor and the ignition coil I mentioned, I would run the engine that minute or two until it quits, then check to see if you are getting spark through the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. If you get no spark you will know you have lost ignition for some reason and the problem is likely not fuel related. You will need an assistant or a remote starter switch or will need to bridge some terminals on the solenoid. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch ON unless you have an assistant operating the starter switch inside the cab. If you have lost spark someone on here can advise you at that point.
As far as testing the PIP in the distributor and the ignition coil I mentioned, I would run the engine that minute or two until it quits, then check to see if you are getting spark through the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. If you get no spark you will know you have lost ignition for some reason and the problem is likely not fuel related. You will need an assistant or a remote starter switch or will need to bridge some terminals on the solenoid. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch ON unless you have an assistant operating the starter switch inside the cab. If you have lost spark someone on here can advise you at that point.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
Yes the distributor is sometimes called a dizzy. I don't think the 302 and 351 distributors are interchangeable. At any rate, make sure any replacement distributor has the same material of drive gear, steel or cast iron, some years come with both materials and they are not interchangeable. If you use a drive gear of the wrong material, you will quickly destroy the camshaft drive gear and virtually need a major engine repair.
As far as testing the PIP in the distributor and the ignition coil I mentioned, I would run the engine that minute or two until it quits, then check to see if you are getting spark through the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. If you get no spark you will know you have lost ignition for some reason and the problem is likely not fuel related. You will need an assistant or a remote starter switch or will need to bridge some terminals on the solenoid. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch ON unless you have an assistant operating the starter switch inside the cab. If you have lost spark someone on here can advise you at that point.
As far as testing the PIP in the distributor and the ignition coil I mentioned, I would run the engine that minute or two until it quits, then check to see if you are getting spark through the spark plug wires while cranking the engine. If you get no spark you will know you have lost ignition for some reason and the problem is likely not fuel related. You will need an assistant or a remote starter switch or will need to bridge some terminals on the solenoid. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch ON unless you have an assistant operating the starter switch inside the cab. If you have lost spark someone on here can advise you at that point.
Thanks again for your advice.
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Senior User
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From: Honokaa Hawaii (Ahualoa)
You may also want to watch this video on testing the PIP:
1996 Ford F-150 No Start with ScannerDanner-EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
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1996 Ford F-150 No Start with ScannerDanner-EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
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