My truck got stolen so I am driving the work van and I just changed the blower resistor, the blower motor and now have some air coming out. It is very weak and was wondering if there was a filter that could be plugged and not letting air through?
The fan switch does not make much deference from one setting to another.

 

There's no cabin filter to clog or change----your issue sounds more closely related to the actual blower switch itself OR the pigtail connector leading into the resistor network.

I'm assuming the blower speed control doesn't affect anything, that whatever airflow you have is always on, can't be switched off or to a higher speed?

If that switch isn't bad the pigtail connector leading to it behind the dashboard could be at issue too---I've had this happen on my own 2000 E250. It's somewhat of an uncommon but not unheard of situation.

 

Thanks for the response. The speed control does very little to change speed. So what do I do? Remove dash and pull the switch? Do you have a step by step to do this?

 

You do have to pull part of the front dash trim panel off to access the blower switch. That involves removing the radio, the main headlight switch **** and rod along with removing two screws in the upper surface of the "window" for viewing the gauges and speedo.

Have you done this sort of work before?

 

Oh yes lots of wrenching but I confess I am a GM guy so Ford sends me for a loop and I thought I would ask details to save me time and issues.
Your instructions are exactly what I am looking for. Here is a few followup questions.
What do you mean by ' Rod"? for the headlight pull? Can you go into more detail? And, what do I do once I have access to the speed control switch? Just change it out?
I have to say, pulling that fan out was quite easy compared to some where I have had to pull the fender.
Thanks.

 

Headlight main switch and **** is indeed the pull to turn on park then headlights, typical main switch used even on the GM stuff. You can reach up under the dash far left side, feel for the switch then feel further up on top to find a button---pull out one detent, press button down then rod or pull will remove the rest of the way.

From there unscrew the bezel holding the dash cluster surround in place. Two 7mm headed screws should be found in the upper area of the cluster surround, pointing towards the windshield---remove them.

Good idea to remove the radio at this point--disconnect the wiring harness and set the unit aside.

From there just left of the far left dash vents begin tugging the dash trim out---it's just clipped in. You could use any sort of plastic or smooth panel lifting tools on the full dash trim---its always been easier for me to just grab and tug. (That's what she said........)

The power port and lighter plug should be disconnected from the chassis wiring--set the entire trim piece aside.

At this point you'll see the temp control,blower switch and Function Control (Off, Vent, Heat, A/C etc etc) mounted in their own little "pod, held in place with three 7 or 8mm headed bolts---remove them, the unit will dangle (dammit she's back again), the blower switch and its chassis connector in easy view.

The switch is held to the "pod" with a single screw that when removed lets the switch body rotate and then separate from the body of the "pod".

I probably have photos of all these parts but would take me a little while to assemble and post them here. Glad to do it if you've got a bit of patience.

Barring that and you're in a rush I can PM you my phone number while you're in process and walk you through this.

That's all there is to it!

 

ok I have everything done including the radio is out. Now, with your instruction, i will go after the light switch thing and try and remove

 

Takes less time to do it than it does to read all about it!

You should be good to go now----you've gotten past the part that trips up many a newbie.

 

I have the switch out and when looking at the flat switch prongs, with the mounting hole at the bottom, the upper left prong is all corroded , close to the white plastic and the one beside it is got some starting as well with the corresponding plug melted a tiny bit. the bottom prongs look fine.
The blower was definitely hooped so I wonder if the speed switch was damaged due to resistance caused from failing or failed blower, thus heating up the switch? Also, I forgot to mention that I replaced the resistor first and there was no change so I had power at the blower plug so I then changed the blower.
Now waiting for new switch to get to dealership from warehouse. Will keep you posted.

 

all fixed up and blowin like a good thing.

Thanks for your insight and wish me luck getting my insurance to cover me for a different truck.

 

Absolutely best of luck for the different truck.

I should have mentioned---thought you'd already know---the blower speed switches can be found at NAPA too........

You're pretty much right about corroded terminals and their general tendency to increase resistance and in turn current through them. I had a blower switch melt down without any warning, the smell of warm plastic very noticeable. I can't recall exactly if I lost any speeds but it was very difficult to rotate it, the **** also melted and no longer holding the switch shaft properly.

Its still a mystery how those switch and connector bodies become so warm they deform yet the fuse never blows?

BTW if you're keeping that van and do your own repairs get an EVTM for your year and chassis----those are life savers for this sort of repair.

Best of luck---stay warm or cool depending on your location.

 

I live in the great white north so I will need heat very soon. I took apart the old switch and it looks to me as though the plastic protrusions that provide the detents for the different speeds wore down allowing all the contacts to come in contact ( or something like). The new switch, which I paid $ 50 buks for, has way more positive purchase on the detents. It would be my opinion to change all three items so there is confidence in the repair.
JMHO.

I will let you know what truck I get but the Van will stick around as it belongs to work. I am just using it until I get a truck.

Thanks again.