Easy blower fix?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
From: Outside of Cleveland, OH
Easy blower fix?
I have a 1979 f150 Lariat. The blower motor on my truck is the same when the blower switch is on the 3rd and 4th settings. Is this an easy fix....is something disconnected or do I need to look at the voltage to the switch? Any ideas would be appreciated....thanks!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,309
Likes: 364
From: Kansas
do the first two switch positions seem normal?
when you switch to the third and fourth settings, can you tell if the blower is running at full speed, or normal speed for the third positions?
When you switch to the hi (fourth) position, the blower resistor is bypassed.
when you switch to the third and fourth settings, can you tell if the blower is running at full speed, or normal speed for the third positions?
When you switch to the hi (fourth) position, the blower resistor is bypassed.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
From: Outside of Cleveland, OH
Thanks - an easier fix than i thought!
Thanks to everyone who responded. I did order a new blower switch. It came in, and when I went to install it, I noticed the black wire from the coupling was pulled out a bit. I pushed it back, and voila! I have all 4 speeds on the blower. I guess I'll just keep the switch - you can never have enough spare parts for a 40+ year old truck. Thanks again...
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 661
Likes: 21
From: Waukesha WI
Need current to my heater/a.c. blower
I looked way back for my previous request for help....not finding it. I found the pictures of the short fuse panel....like mine with 5 fuses. The shorty has no current either side.
It had duel tanks with the valve lever on the floor and a toggle switch on the dash for the gauge. No relay for the blower. AND no current at the switch and the resistor.
The switch has high and 2 lower speeds. Off is on the lower lever. With an orange & yellow wire going to the high speed on the switch and 2 of them at the resistor.......all dead,
I wrote another new thread this week. Perhaps that's the jinx of being a Viking Edition. I'm not able to crawl under the dash feeling where the harness go. I'll try again tomorrow.
It had duel tanks with the valve lever on the floor and a toggle switch on the dash for the gauge. No relay for the blower. AND no current at the switch and the resistor.
The switch has high and 2 lower speeds. Off is on the lower lever. With an orange & yellow wire going to the high speed on the switch and 2 of them at the resistor.......all dead,
I wrote another new thread this week. Perhaps that's the jinx of being a Viking Edition. I'm not able to crawl under the dash feeling where the harness go. I'll try again tomorrow.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 279
Likes: 85
From: Hoschton,Ga.
I looked way back for my previous request for help....not finding it. I found the pictures of the short fuse panel....like mine with 5 fuses. The shorty has no current either side.
It had duel tanks with the valve lever on the floor and a toggle switch on the dash for the gauge. No relay for the blower. AND no current at the switch and the resistor.
The switch has high and 2 lower speeds. Off is on the lower lever. With an orange & yellow wire going to the high speed on the switch and 2 of them at the resistor.......all dead,
I wrote another new thread this week. Perhaps that's the jinx of being a Viking Edition. I'm not able to crawl under the dash feeling where the harness go. I'll try again tomorrow.
It had duel tanks with the valve lever on the floor and a toggle switch on the dash for the gauge. No relay for the blower. AND no current at the switch and the resistor.
The switch has high and 2 lower speeds. Off is on the lower lever. With an orange & yellow wire going to the high speed on the switch and 2 of them at the resistor.......all dead,
I wrote another new thread this week. Perhaps that's the jinx of being a Viking Edition. I'm not able to crawl under the dash feeling where the harness go. I'll try again tomorrow.
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