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When I first learned what the torque value was the first thing I started to do was calculating how long the bar would have to be based on my weight and then the cross section of the bar so it wouldn't bend. Next I started to think about torque multipliers bigger then what I already had.
Then I got the manual and as Josh stated, I thought what they came up was a clever method. And the value on the driveshaft is way less then what the Jimmy two stroke puts out.
When I first learned what the torque value was the first thing I started to do was calculating how long the bar would have to be based on my weight and then the cross section of the bar so it wouldn't bend. Next I started to think about torque multipliers bigger then what I already had.
Then I got the manual and as Josh stated, I thought what they came up was a clever method. And the value on the driveshaft is way less then what the Jimmy two stroke puts out.
I had a fixture set up on my old service truck to torque cylinder rod nuts when the nitrogen ran out. I figured the 10 foot cheater pipe was enough for 1750 ft-lbs.
That was just before everyone had cellphone cameras and YouTube... I did some crazy stuff.
That method works great since its a fully manual drive without any hydraulics in the way, although all those sticks and pedals makes for a busy and tiring day.
A video of the same model dozer. Two stroke song, and smoke until it's up to temp. Ain't no EGR valve here.
I used to know this small guy that was the one I learned from
on mow to rebuild engines. He used to have a cheater bar with
a mark on it for doing the flywheel gland-nut on VW engines.
They were at about 350Ft/Lb. He would stand on the mark to
set the torque on them.
But the example that TooManyToys gave makes a lot of sense.
Knowing how a gear-train works and it factor you can get the
torque for any given input.
And who even thought junior high school physics was not going
to do them any good in the real world.
