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Been searching and searching for the sealed hub bearing (just the bearing not hub assy) for this truck---found it then lost it for a few weeks now found it today all over the place. Ford actually has a part number/kit for it. Didn't write down the part number but they make it
Been searching and searching for the sealed hub bearing (just the bearing not hub assy) for this truck---found it then lost it for a few weeks now found it today all over the place. Ford actually has a part number/kit for it. Didn't write down the part number but they make it
Just wondering why you need to replace the hub bearing. I don't think they fail to often .
I had about 150k on mine when I did the ball joints and the hub bearings were fine.
I did find out the rear hub bearing IS replaceable. Now I still don't know if it has to be pressed out/in--but 68 bucks is alot cheaper than 300 bucks. Been doing the research with QUAD 4x4--they are differential specialist it looks like. Won't get anything else from them--prices too high--but they have alot of info.
I needed to rebuild a rear hub a few months back. The races need to be driven out, I used a bearing race driver.
Just wondering why you need to replace the hub bearing. I don't think they fail to often .
I had about 150k on mine when I did the ball joints and the hub bearings were fine.
.
Part number is 5C3Z-2B513-AA.
Not sure I need to just covering ALL bases before I tear into it. I want to make sure all is available if needed due to time is always an issue for me.
Now if they are cheap enough (appears they are) I will have them on hand as needed. My main symptoms is a very rough ride, pull to the right if I left go of the steering wheel, vibration and shake in steering wheel (not death wobble but very annoying) Front right tire is wearing on the outside egdge so my alignment is out and could just be ball joints, hubs, or both. Just want to be ready to get it done in one weekend and not chase parts. Part of my OCD.
I was trying to save my tires and get through next year since they have good tread but over the last month I can visibility see the wear on the outside edge so no saving them at this point.
I needed to rebuild a rear hub a few months back. The races need to be driven out, I used a bearing race driver.
.
Dang auto spell. I meant front hub bearing. Yeah on the rear I've done those before.....not too bad but for some reason I don't want to get to the rwar anytime soon lol. I imagine it will take alot of pb blaster to free things up.
Front Caliper pin bolt is a 15mm head and the anchor is a 21mm head.
Also 21mm for the unit bearing back side nuts (4).
One fun thing was the passenger side drag link and tie rod end. Driver side is easy.
You don't need an impact to do the ball joints just a box end wrench was all
I used and did not have to go gorilla on it. I did need to get a bit aggressive
with the stupid cotter pin.
Use two ball pean hammers for removing tie rod ends and any other steering component. Put one on the back of the bearing and smack the other side. They will fall out. Old timer at the office showed me that one. You won't tear up the rubber covers using the special fork type spreaders.
Front Caliper pin bolt is a 15mm head and the anchor is a 21mm head.
Also 21mm for the unit bearing back side nuts (4).
One fun thing was the passenger side drag link and tie rod end. Driver side is easy.
You don't need an impact to do the ball joints just a box end wrench was all
I used and did not have to go gorilla on it. I did need to get a bit aggressive
with the stupid cotter pin.
THANKS--was leaning toward 21mm but just wasn't sure. Ball joints are pretty easy to get loose but it's a good excuse to buy a new fun tool I do know I need it for the brake caliper bracket. I gave on on the driverside even using a 5ft cheater bar that weighs 20lbs. Got tired of pushing and pulling. The stuff they use from Ford to lock them in is stout. Cotter pins always gives me fits.
Use two ball pean hammers for removing tie rod ends and any other steering component. Put one on the back of the bearing and smack the other side. They will fall out. Old timer at the office showed me that one. You won't tear up the rubber covers using the special fork type spreaders.
Saw that the other day--used it (somewhat) on the explorer.
Sean--got your voice mail but my phone wasn't clear--not sure if I got the number written down right.
Here you go.
BTW a bit of heat will break the loctite loose. I use a MAPP torch and get them hot
enough but not till they are red. Just enough that you have to let them cool some.
I got to thinking that I should post the Ball Joint Service PDF.
I'll get that done a bit later today for you to enjoy.
While we are talking ball joints and such. I need to replace the tie rod ends alone with the drag link.
That one can get very $$$$! Do to the way Ford is in love with it. Anyone have a good replacement for the set?
While we are talking ball joints and such. I need to replace the tie rod ends alone with the drag link.
That one can get very $$$$! Do to the way Ford is in love with it. Anyone have a good replacement for the set?
I replaced mine with Moog problem solvers. Amazon and Advance Auto I found the best pricing.
One thing I'll warn you, the Moog drag link has the hole for the steering damper at a bad angle and it sort of binds up the rubber bushing. For that reason next time I'm buying from Ford.
BTW a bit of heat will break the loctite loose. I use a MAPP torch and get them hot
enough but not till they are red. Just enough that you have to let them cool some.
I got to thinking that I should post the Ball Joint Service PDF.
I'll get that done a bit later today for you to enjoy.
While we are talking ball joints and such. I need to replace the tie rod ends alone with the drag link.
That one can get very $$$$! Do to the way Ford is in love with it. Anyone have a good replacement for the set?
May be a duplicate question but what ALL is in that kit?
I have reverted all my stuff over to ficmrepair and will order from them except for the ball joints (going xrf) but want to make sure since I just told them im doing xxx and need xyz--didn't give part numbers--want to make sure I'm on the same page. oh and that kit is for one side only correct.
BTW a bit of heat will break the loctite loose. I use a MAPP torch and get them hot
enough but not till they are red. Just enough that you have to let them cool some.
I got to thinking that I should post the Ball Joint Service PDF.
I'll get that done a bit later today for you to enjoy.
While we are talking ball joints and such. I need to replace the tie rod ends alone with the drag link.
That one can get very $$$$! Do to the way Ford is in love with it. Anyone have a good replacement for the set?
May be a duplicate question but what ALL is in that kit?
I have reverted all my stuff over to ficmrepair and will order from them except for the ball joints (going xrf) but want to make sure since I just told them im doing xxx and need xyz--didn't give part numbers--want to make sure I'm on the same page. oh and that kit is for one side only correct.
Everything in the kit is what is listed in the part list in that first page in the top quote.
The nice thing is you get 2 of the large yellow hub lock O-rings.
And yes I was lazy and just posted all the relevant quotes .
Sean
6.0L Tech Folder
EDIT : Let me know if you can't read the part numbers I am having a hard time myself.
I can repost them in a better format.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
