I have a feeling I'll be taking it to a buddies shop to put the hammer to it. Anything I have available vise/table wise won't be enough. Heck I'd probably end up knocking the vise through the table lol.

 

I did find out the rear hub bearing IS replaceable. Now I still don't know if it has to be pressed out/in--but 68 bucks is alot cheaper than 300 bucks. Been doing the research with QUAD 4x4--they are differential specialist it looks like. Won't get anything else from them--prices too high--but they have alot of info.

 

And the wife keeps on pushing me to get it done??? I can explain things to her and if she in her mind thinks it's an immediate safety issue (which this isn't at the moment) she wan'ts me to do it immediately lol. I told her I am ready to go once i have the parts in hand--just relax. I'll be posting a thread same as I did with the EGR delete--should be entertaining.

 

Ho and have some wheel bearing grease on hand to place on
the hub lock.If you get the Ford parts kit it comes with some instructions.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

I was wanting to get some FORD specific gease when I did the explorer but grabbed the wrong one. So I plan on going to ford and buy a tube. On my parts I'm getting all Spicer on the seals and XRF on the ball joints. If I do end up doing the hub bearing they'll be from that quad 4x4 place (only place I can find them) I've worked it everyway I could to get it all in one place but the above is the cheapest I can get. Almost went with spicer ball joints but will try with them others. I did have a good run looking up parts specific for Dana Super 60 and national seals, skf, and a couple of others had part numbers but couldn't cross reference with known numbers. Just curious what all is in the ford parts kit?

 

Here you go












Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Well foot. Have to add this one to my list. I suppose that does just one side?

 

Yes one kit for each side.
This is the price + shipping I got from Ed. Hub seal kit: $32.95/EA
New snap ring and all the O-rings and 2 of the yellow hub lock ones 3 screws with
blue loctite compound already on them. And the BIG PITA to install seal. OOPS
almost forget. 4 new nuts for the unit bearing. You have to provide the rust.

I am going to order a set of front rotors and a ABS sensor from Ed.
And I may need to redo one seal on the passenger side. (Wrong tool used)

One easy way to see if you have the seal in deep enough is to place to tool in and with
a sharpie mark the depth on the knuckle wall and add the thickness of the seal to it.
You will find that the seal fits just over the raised inside edge of the bore. That should
almost put you at the mark from the tool depth + the seal thickness.

I used one of theses in blue to clean up all the rust on the inside of the knuckle bore
then hit it with a red Scotch-brite flapper wheel to put a surface finish back on it.






I think I already said this but if you can't get the seal to seat all the way in try lifting up on the
U-joint to help the back guard ring clean the bore. It will be clear when you look at what you working for.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

well now I'll have to go back over my whole list of stuff. The Spicer kit I have marked has the vacuum seal, axle tube seal, and hub oring both sides 114.00 and the locking hub service kit both sides 72.00 and no hub nuts. Back to the drawing board--but I suppose I should have known better and just give ED a shout. DUH.......

 

I think the updated dust seal was around a about $25.00 a side.
That little gem is a $$ one.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Good luck with that snap ring inside the hub, I had a heck of a time with that jewel. I had to go to my dads machine shop and modify snap ring pliers to get that *@#$#@! out. But, in the end it came off. But like they said, take your time, make sure the seal driver is squared up and the seal is going on straight. Good luck and post us some pictures!!

 

Found em for 16 a side and seem to be cheaper in the spicer kit but gotta look at tge whole picture to see what is really the cheapest. Have my email off to ficmrepair.com so well see. Still going with XRF ball joints though.

 

I hear ya, I'll definitely be posting this saga up. Should be entertaining for all. One of my MOST important tools I'm getting is a GOOD impact gun. So taking this stuff apart will take seconds. I don't want to use the 5ft cheater bar for everything. Which reminds me---what is the head size on the brake caliper bracket bolt?

 

Man, I wish I was 100% on this but I believe it's either a 20 or 22mm, maybe someone will chime in that knows for sure

 

yeah was thinking it was one of those two. When I did one last time I think I used SAE but it wasn't perfect.