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One thing that has worked for me often enough to be reinforced, is to check and/or clean electrical connectors and grounds. "If I had a nickel..." I may not know how a particular component works, (or even what it is) but I have learned a corroded electrical connection will cause it not to work at all.
Particularly with the solenoids and actuators and other electrical gee-gaws underneath the truck associated with the transmission, they are exposed to a lot of road spray and salt.
It certainly won't hurt anything to disconnect them and spray them out with a contact cleaner or whatever and reconnect. Who knows, it may solve your problem. You'd be surprised how simple things cause complex issues! You've got nothing to lose. Let us know what you find.
I'm really about to pull my hair out. I've been without a vehicle to work for a week now and as it looks its going to be longer. I'm not sure if this helps at all. But i noticed when I was checking things with the autoenginuity with the truck running and sterio off I'm getting cracks out of the speakers here and there. Does this mean anything?
Thanks man, I'm calling it a night on the truck for now. It's almost midnight. But I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I'm going to check and clean every electrical connection on that thing in the morning
Are you running a tune or stock pcm? If tuned return it to stock. Next, can you monitor PIDs? What do THE Accelerator Pedal Position(s) (APP) show when you hit the accelerator pedal?
To be honest with you man I have no idea if I'm stock or not because I bought the truck the way it is. I'll check the accelerator pedal position in the a.m. and let you know.
Thanks man, I'm calling it a night on the truck for now. It's almost midnight. But I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I'm going to check and clean every electrical connection on that thing in the morning
This is something to be done anyway. It also forces one to be looking around at things that sometimes don't get looked at. Have found a lot of unrelated issues by performing other maintenance over the years. "Hey look at that.."
Just remember to disconnect battery first to be safe, before disconnecting and reconnecting stuff. Don't want to zap anything.
I did this on the 4x4 V6 Ranger and one connector was pretty furry and green inside, just a few years old too. It was the lowest hanging of any of the under vehicle electrical connectors. The o-ring doesn't necessarily seal out as well as they might.
Again I'm not saying this will fix your problem but what have you got to lose? It's not a bad plan to try the basic stuff first even if you have to take it to the pros. Guess what? They may do the exact same thing, except they have to keep the lights on and pay the rent, if you follow what I'm saying.
Lol yea I Def know what your saying. Exactly why I am not trying to take it to the pros. Heck I just kinda feel if they they figure it out and fix it why can't i. And let's face it most mechanics now days in these ford and chevy garages just go off of what the computer tells them. Like I said no all but from what I've seen that is what it is.
One thing I want to ask you guys that are helping me out and that definitely have more experience with the 6.0 then I do is how come no one has mentioned that my tranny is bad. Is it definitely a possibility that I don't even have a tranny issue?seeing that I did not throw Amy tramny codes. I did have the torque convertor code but after alternator replacement it went away. Just curious
Did you say that when you put it into gear that the accelerator
does not do anything after that? If so look at something called
Vref should be 5V. Things like the accelerator and most sensors
use a reference voltage or Vref. If something is pulling it down to
ground you loose systems.
Is the T/H light flashing when in gear? Does the trans feel like it tried
to move the truck when you shift from part to any gear?
I am trying to post a pinpoint test PDF but Win7 is being a pig and
won't let me save it as a PDF.
EDIT : I just saw what you said and the Torqueshift tends to be well built trans. The fact that your dropping RPM control
when you put it into gear points at electrical in my thinking.
Yes tow haul was flashing. Long story short tranny was hitting hard on way to work. The way home same way, half way there how/haul starts flashing wouldn't shift into the hight gear rpms just went up a few miles later truck just shuts off n won't start. Have towed home, replaced alternator and got it to start but now wont go into any gear. When shifting to gears it kinda feels like it goes in but when hit throttle nothing but rpms rise. And when put into reverse truck idling can stomp on throttle and absolutely nothing happens. Thanks a bunch for ur help. I need this truck running so bad I'm too stressed to sleep.
Yes tow haul was flashing. Long story short tranny was hitting hard on way to work. The way home same way, half way there how/haul starts flashing wouldn't shift into the hight gear rpms just went up a few miles later truck just shuts off n won't start. Have towed home, replaced alternator and got it to start but now wont go into any gear. When shifting to gears it kinda feels like it goes in but when hit throttle nothing but rpms rise. And when put into reverse truck idling can stomp on throttle and absolutely nothing happens. Thanks a bunch for ur help. I need this truck running so bad I'm too stressed to sleep.
Do the RPM go up? A flashing T/H is telling you the trans is seeing something it does not like.
Anything from a bad sensor to a failed solenoid and a few things between.
When mine went it broke a weld on one of the sun gears and I was stuck on the road.
Took a rebuilt trans to fix it. I ordered it from Ed at Ficmrepair. Very good price and real Ford.
We need to get Mark back in on this. Trans and some of the
things that can go bump are more his baby. He did testing on them
and so knows than very well.
Sean
6.0L Tech Folder
EDIT: In looking at the info on the codes you posted I have something for you to look at.
Un hook both batteries and remove the driver side one. That aluminum box is the PCM.
Carefully remover each of the plugs and check the pins and sockets for bent pins or corrosion.
Also any green fuzz is not good. The AE saying that it have a VIN mismatch got me to thinking
that maybe some battery leakage or a squirrel.
Ok Sean, will check pcm plugs first thing in the morning. Also the rpms do go up when I put in d,1,2,3...
....R. does absolutely nothing 97% of the time. But sometimes when switching between gears it acts just like the rest are. Since alternator replacement the tow/how is not flashing or on anymore and b4 new alternator I have a torque converter code but it has since disappeared also.
AND yes I've hear good things about that mark guy. Hopefully he gives some good input soon.
