Traction bars.
So, the length becomes static which I assume means that as the springs compress due to weight etc. there is no change in length from the mounting location on the frame to the mounting location on the rear end?
Or, is the change so minimal that it doesn't need to be accounted for?
Seeing as the traction bars have a pivot point underneath the axle --- as the springs compress (forklift just dropped 20 sheets of 4x8' plywood in the bed) -- the springs get longer, the axle moves slightly rearward. Because of the pivot point between the bars and the bottom of the axle, the bars hold the axle from moving rearward parallel to the ground so the axle rotates slightly and the pinion would rise.
From my understanding, this movement would be very slight. It's not as if compressing the rear springs causes the rear axle to move forward or aft by a matter of inches.
Hypothetically speaking, there would be some rotation upward of the pinion when placing a heavy load in the back of the truck. If anyone does not understand why or disagrees, please do as I feel we are all trying to understand this together.
Either way, I believe we are now splitting hairs in terms of our scrutiny. I intend to bolt these *******s on and feel the following changes.
-smoother shifting between gears
-no more driveline "wind up" when stomping the pedal before beginning to accelerate
-no more driveline "wind down" when releasing the pedal during heavy acceleration
-no more intense chassis shudder under heavy low gear acceleration with trailer
-fuzzy feelings in my stomach akin to success and progress
-no longer stressing about driveshaft u-joints breaking and destroying transfer cases
Also worth adding that the vehicle's tune seems to have a marginal effect on the violent shuddering during heavy tow low gear acceleration. More powerful tunes caused much more violent shuddering when the turbo spooled up and the truck surged forward during acceleration. Tunes designed for 10-12.5k and 12.5k+ pound towing made the shudder much less noticeable unless really launching the truck for all-out-full-speed acceleration from a stop with heavy payload.
I'd just like to reiterate that the only reason I made this thread is because this is a hauling work truck. I barely use it as a daily driver. It typically does not move unless it has massive weight behind it. Typical payload is around 14k pounds. Most of the "issues" I'm trying to resolve with these traction bars probably don't apply to people who daily drive their truck and do not partake in heavy hauling.
Seeing as the traction bars have a pivot point underneath the axle --- as the springs compress (forklift just dropped 20 sheets of 4x8' plywood in the bed) -- the springs get longer, the axle moves slightly rearward. Because of the pivot point between the bars and the bottom of the axle, the bars hold the axle from moving rearward parallel to the ground so the axle rotates slightly and the pinion would rise.
From my understanding, this movement would be very slight. It's not as if compressing the rear springs causes the rear axle to move forward or aft by a matter of inches.
Hypothetically speaking, there would be some rotation upward of the pinion when placing a heavy load in the back of the truck. If anyone does not understand why or disagrees, please do as I feel we are all trying to understand this together.
Either way, I believe we are now splitting hairs in terms of our scrutiny. I intend to bolt these *******s on and feel the following changes.
-smoother shifting between gears
-no more driveline "wind up" when stomping the pedal before beginning to accelerate
-no more driveline "wind down" when releasing the pedal during heavy acceleration
-no more intense chassis shudder under heavy low gear acceleration with trailer
-fuzzy feelings in my stomach akin to success and progress
-no longer stressing about driveshaft u-joints breaking and destroying transfer cases
Also worth adding that the vehicle's tune seems to have a marginal effect on the violent shuddering during heavy tow low gear acceleration. More powerful tunes caused much more violent shuddering when the turbo spooled up and the truck surged forward during acceleration. Tunes designed for 10-12.5k and 12.5k+ pound towing made the shudder much less noticeable unless really launching the truck for all-out-full-speed acceleration from a stop with heavy payload.
I'd just like to reiterate that the only reason I made this thread is because this is a hauling work truck. I barely use it as a daily driver. It typically does not move unless it has massive weight behind it. Typical payload is around 14k pounds. Most of the "issues" I'm trying to resolve with these traction bars probably don't apply to people who daily drive their truck and do not partake in heavy hauling.
I commend you for creating this thread as it will help me almost as much as it helps you due to the fact that the F350 in my sig doesn't move unless it is doing work. I too have felt axle wrap and did not let off soon enough the first time I felt it to the detriment of the drive train and about $800.
So, thank you for creating the thread and sticking with it. I look forward to reading about the positive results that you will experience.
Also, thanks you to all of those who contributed a ton of valuable knowledge. Many will benefit from this info for a long time to come as it is not limited to this era of truck exclusively.
Had a 24' goose behind it with an additional 7k loaded.
You mentioned tuning, it makes a difference. It was the first time that a family member had driven it with the then new tunes which made the throttle about 10 times more touchy than any tune that I had/have seen before or since. I was actually in the passenger seat and by the time I thought to say/shout "Let off" it was too late.
Needless to say, I am no longer running those.
Arrived in three boxes. Packaging was excellent.
Have to decide front mounting location on the frame. There is a cab mount right where the ideal location would be. I will need to shift the front traction bar frame mounts either forward or backward.
Stated in the instructions --- "Atleast 8inches of bar overlap must occur" and mounting the front of the bars to the frame in the location pictured provides 10" of overlap so I'm probably good. Also trying to match the bar angle/length with that of the driveshaft.
Mounting forward of the cab mount matches driveshaft angle pretty well, matching rear of the cab mount is a little steeper of an angle compared to driveshaft.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82...ew?usp=sharing
Another pictures of offending cab mount..
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82...ew?usp=sharing
Angle of bar/driveshaft looks pretty good.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B82...ew?usp=sharing
Also worth noting is that I received atleast 20 pages of documentation regarding installation of the various products OUO sells. Most of the information was not available on the internet and is new to me. Also worth noting that all of the CAD drawings and diagrams have a firm confidentiality notice on them. Makes sense, as by posting pictures online one could unknowingly be giving away trade secrets.
Once I finish the installation I'll post more pictures.
Gonna call OUO today and see what they recommend for the front mount location.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I have the RAS (Roadmaster Active Suspension) springs on my truck and think that the OUO setup would be just fine, but pictures would help with that if I needed to go that route.
Looking forward to hearing your opinion on how they perform and if they stand out like a sore thumb once mounted.
Hopefully I can drill the frame (8 3/8 bolts on each side/mount) and get the frame mounts installed tomorrow and follow up with the bar installation as well.
Will post pictures.
I know what it is like to get a fix for something that has been bothering you in the mail. Have fun with the install and take a lot of pictures for those of us thinking about getting the OUO setup.








