traction bars
#2
10-18-2015, 10:58 AM
Traction bars? Now that's a blast from the past, really ancient technology. Traction bars were to prevent/reduce rear spring leaf wrap up causing wheel hop when car had long flexible leaf springs in the rear, which is not the case with a 56 unless too many leafs have been removed or monoleafs installed. I doubt you have spring wrap up so I doubt traction bars will help you any. Pickups by nature are very light in the rear so are inherently traction challenged. There are things that can be done to improve traction, but they require major changes/modifications, they are not bolt on solutions. Where/when are you experiencing traction issues, what engine, transmission, rear axle ratio, tire model/size, and surface?
#3
10-18-2015, 11:16 AM
#5
10-18-2015, 12:50 PM
#6
10-18-2015, 01:36 PM
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#7
11-23-2015, 06:20 AM
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Traction bars? Now that's a blast from the past, really ancient technology. Traction bars were to prevent/reduce rear spring leaf wrap up causing wheel hop when car had long flexible leaf springs in the rear, which is not the case with a 56 unless too many leafs have been removed or monoleafs installed. I doubt you have spring wrap up so I doubt traction bars will help you any. Pickups by nature are very light in the rear so are inherently traction challenged. There are things that can be done to improve traction, but they require major changes/modifications, they are not bolt on solutions. Where/when are you experiencing traction issues, what engine, transmission, rear axle ratio, tire model/size, and surface?
460 with 450-500 hp
c6
9" trac loc with 3.50 gears
255/65/16 (29" tall), about 9" tread width, bf goodrich.
Panel is lowered 5" front, 3-4" rear. Burnout marks ,(color),look very consistent, so probably not much wheel hop. Have all factory leaves presently installed. Been learning more about suspensions.
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#8
11-23-2015, 06:33 AM
#9
11-23-2015, 08:50 AM
Post Fiend
I've owned a few pairs of those. They would look a little silly on an Effie these days. Based on what I've seen on the dragstrip, you need a full chassis to get an Effie to hook with a strong engine. I've seen guys try slicks and stock frame and it is scary to watch. Most of them were all over the track, and into the wall on a few occasions.
#10
11-23-2015, 10:25 AM
I hope you take this in the spirit it is given:
1. First thing you need to do is decide what you want your truck to be when it grows up. A street car is never going to be a good drag racing car. A drag racing car will not corner worth a dman or be very comfortable to drive and will regularly break parts if driven on the street. Every improvement to one of the above is going to be detrimental to the other.
2. If you are not experiencing wheel hop, then you are not having a spring wrap up problem, ergo you have no need for traction bars.
3. Drag racing a panel truck is like trying to make a barn fly.
4. No drag racer in his right mind today would use a stock Effie frame and/or parallel rear leaf springs. We only did it back in the 60s because the rules required it.
5. Ask "Daddy Dave", "Big Chief", the owner/driver of "Chucky" Mustang all on Street Outlaws how much their medical bills and cost to rebuild their totalled cars were recently from racing on the street.
1. First thing you need to do is decide what you want your truck to be when it grows up. A street car is never going to be a good drag racing car. A drag racing car will not corner worth a dman or be very comfortable to drive and will regularly break parts if driven on the street. Every improvement to one of the above is going to be detrimental to the other.
2. If you are not experiencing wheel hop, then you are not having a spring wrap up problem, ergo you have no need for traction bars.
3. Drag racing a panel truck is like trying to make a barn fly.
4. No drag racer in his right mind today would use a stock Effie frame and/or parallel rear leaf springs. We only did it back in the 60s because the rules required it.
5. Ask "Daddy Dave", "Big Chief", the owner/driver of "Chucky" Mustang all on Street Outlaws how much their medical bills and cost to rebuild their totalled cars were recently from racing on the street.
#11
11-23-2015, 10:54 AM
Cargo Master
I hope you take this in the spirit it is given:
1. First thing you need to do is decide what you want your truck to be when it grows up. A street car is never going to be a good drag racing car. A drag racing car will not corner worth a dman or be very comfortable to drive and will regularly break parts if driven on the street. Every improvement to one of the above is going to be detrimental to the other.
2. If you are not experiencing wheel hop, then you are not having a spring wrap up problem, ergo you have no need for traction bars.
3. Drag racing a panel truck is like trying to make a barn fly.
4. No drag racer in his right mind today would use a stock Effie frame and/or parallel rear leaf springs. We only did it back in the 60s because the rules required it.
5. Ask "Daddy Dave", "Big Chief", the owner/driver of "Chucky" Mustang all on Street Outlaws how much their medical bills and cost to rebuild their totalled cars were recently from racing on the street.
1. First thing you need to do is decide what you want your truck to be when it grows up. A street car is never going to be a good drag racing car. A drag racing car will not corner worth a dman or be very comfortable to drive and will regularly break parts if driven on the street. Every improvement to one of the above is going to be detrimental to the other.
2. If you are not experiencing wheel hop, then you are not having a spring wrap up problem, ergo you have no need for traction bars.
3. Drag racing a panel truck is like trying to make a barn fly.
4. No drag racer in his right mind today would use a stock Effie frame and/or parallel rear leaf springs. We only did it back in the 60s because the rules required it.
5. Ask "Daddy Dave", "Big Chief", the owner/driver of "Chucky" Mustang all on Street Outlaws how much their medical bills and cost to rebuild their totalled cars were recently from racing on the street.
Example is my BIL's grand cherokee SRT, full leather, power everything, etc..600HP+ 6.1 hemi with a big turbo. Drive it anywhere no problem, get it over 3000 RPM and hang on, its a runaway carnival ride with all 4 wheels spinning. It is so much faster than my BB muscle cars it is crazy.
Also those guys who wrecked their cars didnt wreck because they were on the street, the big thing now is to run no prep at the track which is the same risk.
Daddy Dave's wreck WAS at the track and I think Chiefs was as well.
I agree if the OP is leaving even stripes he doesn't need slapper bars, he needs some rear tires. Put some drag radials on there and try again.
#12
11-23-2015, 10:58 AM
Post Fiend
I don't think the OP really intends to race, but your points are valid Chuck. I have had my Volare F100 truck to the track a few times but it is slow. Just a gradual glide to 85mph or so. Safe enough I let my wife bracket race it.
I think I have probably seen five truly fast Effies at the track on stock frames. Every one of them was squirrely and two of them actually hit the wall and trashed their trucks. 2 or 5 is not good odds IMO.
Powerful engines are cool. I'm not even sure sticky tires are a great idea though. Do a few burnouts now and then and call it good. I love to race and it's exactly why I also own a Mustang with all the drag stuff. It's 100 times safer.
I think I have probably seen five truly fast Effies at the track on stock frames. Every one of them was squirrely and two of them actually hit the wall and trashed their trucks. 2 or 5 is not good odds IMO.
Powerful engines are cool. I'm not even sure sticky tires are a great idea though. Do a few burnouts now and then and call it good. I love to race and it's exactly why I also own a Mustang with all the drag stuff. It's 100 times safer.
#13
11-23-2015, 11:47 AM
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11-23-2015, 12:08 PM
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11-23-2015, 12:21 PM
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