Traction bars.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
By a Lexus IIRC. Those dam 1%ers think they can get away with anything! 
I thought axle wrap was pretty much Sauron and everything else is just orcs. In this application, a longer-the-better set of ladder bars and call it good?
I thought axle wrap was pretty much Sauron and everything else is just orcs. In this application, a longer-the-better set of ladder bars and call it good?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Unless you are driving like a crackhead in a stolen sled pulling truck you have some other issues going on that traction band aids are just masking. I would take them all off and figure it out. Me thinks once you solve the out of spec problem you will not need any extra bars, links , belts, weights, shocks or assorted who ha's to keep your truck from breaking drivetrain parts under normilish driving conditions,
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Northern California
Btw tug....nice burnout. On the day I drove my 6.0 to the dealer to turn it in as a lemon law buy back I did a 1/4 mile burnout in mine. It was satisfying. 
. Yes I power braked for some it at the start... Lol
. Yes I power braked for some it at the start... Lol
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
A couple. Non of the top end as of now. here's the axle end.
No bushings on the axle end. Just solid bolts, the frame end doesn't have bushings either. Just a shackle made out of weld on ends from a farm store like these Koch Top Link End Forged Weld-On Ball End Category 1 Not ideal for a street rig prob, but effective. Add bushings at the axle, to help quiet it down if wanted. But idk of mine makes noise. Tires and pipes are too loud. Lol.
It's strong as hell, I've got 42.5 tall tractor tires on it, when I was pulling tree stumps out, I could get the front tires to bob off the ground. Not a superduty, but same axles.... Would be tight fit on a SD
No bushings on the axle end. Just solid bolts, the frame end doesn't have bushings either. Just a shackle made out of weld on ends from a farm store like these Koch Top Link End Forged Weld-On Ball End Category 1 Not ideal for a street rig prob, but effective. Add bushings at the axle, to help quiet it down if wanted. But idk of mine makes noise. Tires and pipes are too loud. Lol.
It's strong as hell, I've got 42.5 tall tractor tires on it, when I was pulling tree stumps out, I could get the front tires to bob off the ground. Not a superduty, but same axles.... Would be tight fit on a SD
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Corksil - I stared at everything under the truck, with my brain going "suspension" instead of "vibration". The angle of my rear springs caught me off-guard - I thought they were level with the frame. Nope. They are biased high in the rear. I'm still working out the dynamics in my head.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
Tugly since this has basically turned into your thread I want to point out that you're not making huge power on stock tires. A lot compared to most and you have installed what fixes most people's problem but yet you still have a problem... Something does not add up.
Now I'm going to compare Apple's ro oranges here but think about this. I'm between 100-150 horse power (completely guessing) higher and I'm sure at least that number in tq too. I'm on 35" tires and lifted a bit. I don't have to have ladder bars 99% of the time but insurance on that 1% is money well spent to me.
So I'm lifted with bigger tires a little more power and don't "need" them.
On my SD I needed them due to being on 38x15.5s and an 8" all spring lift.
Now I'm going to compare Apple's ro oranges here but think about this. I'm between 100-150 horse power (completely guessing) higher and I'm sure at least that number in tq too. I'm on 35" tires and lifted a bit. I don't have to have ladder bars 99% of the time but insurance on that 1% is money well spent to me.
So I'm lifted with bigger tires a little more power and don't "need" them.
On my SD I needed them due to being on 38x15.5s and an 8" all spring lift.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
I've been going back in forth in my head about ordering parts and trying to fabricate a traction bar system with a local welder, versus ordering the OUO kit.
The OUO stuff would be the simplest as it would be simple disassembly and reassembly with different components.
Welding something together would be a little bit more risky and have many things that could go wrong.
The OUO stuff would be the simplest as it would be simple disassembly and reassembly with different components.
Welding something together would be a little bit more risky and have many things that could go wrong.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
Its all about how good the welder is 
In the few sets I've made it would be the same time wise to just buy a set. If you have more skill then money I'd build a set. If not so much time or skill buy a set. It'll work out about the same either way
In the few sets I've made it would be the same time wise to just buy a set. If you have more skill then money I'd build a set. If not so much time or skill buy a set. It'll work out about the same either way
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
I've been going back in forth in my head about ordering parts and trying to fabricate a traction bar system with a local welder, versus ordering the OUO kit.
The OUO stuff would be the simplest as it would be simple disassembly and reassembly with different components.
Welding something together would be a little bit more risky and have many things that could go wrong.
The OUO stuff would be the simplest as it would be simple disassembly and reassembly with different components.
Welding something together would be a little bit more risky and have many things that could go wrong.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
I'd say it depends more on understanding the geometry physics. Good welds are not going to overcome a bad setup.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 4,738
Likes: 15
From: Temperance, MI
There's enough information out there to know what works and what doesn't.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I see where this will go. I'll need to get a level surface, take measurements of suspension mounts, and predict the movement of the axle. OR... take Stinky to work, drop the front pivot on my traction bars, put a ton in the bed with one of the fork lifts, and measure the natural angles.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
[LINK]
This one is easy, but I don't like the "slip-grip" (my own expression here) on the axle. It's bad enough when the shocks do that.
I was eyeing this one real hard, but don't forget the cost of buying the square U-bolts.
If you like to weld and want to save some real money, here yuh go:
This one is easy, but I don't like the "slip-grip" (my own expression here) on the axle. It's bad enough when the shocks do that.
I was eyeing this one real hard, but don't forget the cost of buying the square U-bolts.
If you like to weld and want to save some real money, here yuh go:
Hate to say it, but those are essentially adding a radius arm to a leaf spring suspension. It's going to hinder movement. On a street truck, or one that doesn't see a lot of load in the box it will probably be fine, but if you need full of close to full travel, I'd say it's not all that good. To keep axle wrap under control you really only need a single bar if there's room. If not do a dual bar, but still run a shackle at the frame end. It's not overly complicated.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Now see... this is where I get confused. I look at that design (sticking with the unit with the square U-bolts for this discussion), and it looks sound. I see it as long enough to allow full spring compression - but there is one question that bothers me: Will the front leaf spring mount hit (and bend) the bar at full compression to the bump stops? The rise and fall of the bar at that point will be about half that of the axle, so a simple measurement should answer this - if one knows where the bar will be in relation to the front spring mount.