Pump Timing
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: citrus heights California
Pump Timing
Turned the pump up 4 flats, had no smoke while loaded, decided to try to gain a bit of power. Had nothing. Went up 2 more flats, all I have is gray brown black smoke, replaced fuel filter, common issue? Still gray, but now even less since the fuel filter... (Not looking for coal, but the girlfriends truck has higher miles, still puts a bit of black out)
113k rebuilt
Injection pump (13k)
Injectors (13k)
No noticeable oil or coolant loss
Compression 340-350
Lift pump (13k)
Always starts within 5-10 seconds of cranking with no glow plugs.
Lack of thermostat wouldn't cause the gray smoke would it?
I'm assuming pump timing... (No access to timing light currently, should I tilt pump?)
113k rebuilt
Injection pump (13k)
Injectors (13k)
No noticeable oil or coolant loss
Compression 340-350
Lift pump (13k)
Always starts within 5-10 seconds of cranking with no glow plugs.
Lack of thermostat wouldn't cause the gray smoke would it?
I'm assuming pump timing... (No access to timing light currently, should I tilt pump?)
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
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Thermostat could because it doesnt warm up. Put one in, you will either wipe the cylinders or overheat it. The fact that you got 6 flats out of it tells me something is weird, never got much more than 3 out of one. Sounds like a wore out pump. Timing wont cause lack of smoke, but should be in the neighborhood of 6-9ish BTDC via pulse adapter.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 152
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From: citrus heights California
I was always assuming they backed it out for economy? I backed it out 2 flats and put it back in pretty sure it was only 3 flats just felt like more lmAo. I'm almost positive it'll go more
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
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Honestly, with an old pump like this? adjust it a bit and see what feels the best. You won't be able to time it correctly with a light, because the timing curve will be off.
Just get it where it feels the best/has most power and call it good, while saving up for a new performance pump(chances are your pump is a crummy rebuild?)
Just get it where it feels the best/has most power and call it good, while saving up for a new performance pump(chances are your pump is a crummy rebuild?)
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 152
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From: citrus heights California
Honestly, with an old pump like this? adjust it a bit and see what feels the best. You won't be able to time it correctly with a light, because the timing curve will be off. Just get it where it feels the best/has most power and call it good, while saving up for a new performance pump(chances are your pump is a crummy rebuild?)
towards the radiator
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: citrus heights California
I guess I'm gunna have too lol.
But sadly it's going to have to wait. It's birthday celebrating time tonight! Thanks for your help guys! Especially you Macrobb! You've no idea how much easier you've made this!
But sadly it's going to have to wait. It's birthday celebrating time tonight! Thanks for your help guys! Especially you Macrobb! You've no idea how much easier you've made this!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
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From: North Bend
Pump Timing
You're talking about the fuel screw inside the IP, under the triangular plate on the side, right? "Towards the radiator" makes me think you're adjusting the "torque screw" or whatever it's actually called, which is on the outside of the pump.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
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Older trucks/pumps(Not sure the exact year, but it was after 88) didn't have a "torque screw". There's no real reason for the screw anyway except emissions, maby.