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1961 - 1963 F100 Unibody 1961, 1962 and 1963 Ford F100 Unibody trucks

63 dies at idle

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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 10:12 AM
  #1  
Combatwombat's Avatar
Combatwombat
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63 dies at idle

I've rewired my truck(1963 f100 292) and it was running fine. After I got the exhaust ran it died over a weekend. After I jumped it it ran for about 10 minutes and then died. So we figured to put a kill switch (with an in line 80 fuse) in. When I went to start it the truck was dead and the fuse blew after it was jumped and I tried starting it again. So i put a 100 amp fuse in, it ran then it shut off after it idled for a few minutes. Went to go try starting it and the battery was dead. I jumped it and while cranking it destroyed the 100 amp fuse.
I am unsure of why this is happening. Should I get a bigger battery and take the in line fuse out or get a bigger fuse? Any advance is welcomed. Thank you
 
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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Brucekoukalaka
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Trace your wiring for grounds, this will probably be your issue. Putting a bigger battery in will only result in taking an extra minute to discharge. A larger fuse will not help either, this may end up in a fire. Frankly I'm surprised you haven't had one yet!!! You may also have a bad starter creating a power surge which will draw too much power from the battery again causing the fuse to blow.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 06:17 AM
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I toke the fuse out completely and just grounded the kill switch with better connections. It's a new battery so I'm unsure of what's going on. Because it'll sit and then it won't start or turn or anything and then when it gets jumped it'll idle for 10 minutes and die. What grounds should I check? And could there be a draw that is killing the battery? I tried started it the other day and it made a zapping noise, like the battery had no juice and then yesterday if didn't even click.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 07:56 AM
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It might be a new battery, but they can be ruined quickly.

A jump start is really only for dire emergency, there's no other choice to get moving. It really needs charging asap, the alternator is not designed for this and may in fact choke.

A dead or jumped battery should be recharged using an outboard charger. A small fault in the battery circuit can cause a surprising amount of destruction and eventually ruin the starter, solenoid, alternator, as well as the battery itself, and other expensive modern goodies. It pays to stay on top of the battery and charging.

24 hours charging at this point after the several torture sessions you described would not hurt anything. While the battery is soaking up the juice, take the time and replace all the Kennedy era battery cables and grounds. Battery negative should go directly to clean unpainted part of the engine block. Another cable from the block to frame. Another from block to firewall. These are all important.

When you ran the exhaust, check for something that was disconnected or maybe snapped.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 08:04 AM
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I charged a battery for 24hrs and pulled it this morning and gonna try that and put on the new battery that's in there on the charger today. I'm gonna look at the grounds from the block to the frame and the block to the firewall. Hopefully this fixes it! Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 12:29 PM
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Yep, good plan. Don't wanna sound like I'm beating up on you, there's a method to the madness though. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Nope you're good. I need all the advice I can get. It's highly appreciated. I'll let you guys know here shortly
 
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Old Aug 5, 2015 | 02:01 PM
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TeachNlive4ever
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From: Garland, Tx
It could be circumstantial, but it almost sounds like the alternator isn't charging.
Maybe have a looksie around the starter for a hot or melted wire.
 
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