So my engine has 150k-ish miles on it and I am itching for a new set of injectors. One of my dad's trucks needs a turbo and I think i'm going to pawn mine it off on him and get a T4 setup with an S366. I'm also likely looking at a T500 in the future as well.

With that, and my mods listed below in mind, what injectors do y'all think I should I get?

AC?
160/100?
200/100?
Other?

Go!

 

You need to establish a power goal and then you can get accurate recommendations.

 

I don't really have a power goal, I just know what I have and what I can afford. I want to know what plays well together. In other words, doesn't demand too much oil or overpower the turbo, etc.

 

what you plan to do with the truck will dictate your injectors.I f you want to tow 160/30 is a good stick,if you want fun 238/100,and then the supporting mods to accomodate,purpose dictates what you should do

 

If you don't have a goal per se, what about intended use? Towing? Off Road? Daily Driver? Highway? Altitude? Hauling? etc.

 

^^ All good questions and points by fellow members! ^^

As an example, here was my choice and the implications.

I have a limited budget, but want a daily driver that was mileage conscious, peppy when needed, and a solid towing vehicle up to about 10k for extended distances.

I asked questions, read TONS of info, and heeded some sage advice.

I decided to stay with the stock sticks and get the truck as solid 100% performance as possible- from intake to exhaust, from tank to injectors, from crank to tires.

Some key points along the way.

1. Ford AIS (intake) will handle the max that stock sticks can put out, even with other mods. They only handle so much fuel.

2. 4" stainless MBRP Turbo-back exhaust to support the higher airflows and keep EGTs down.

3. Added John Wood Valve Body to transmission to firm up shift points, resulting in more efficient shifts, cooler trans temps, and better handle the extra power in the stock 4R100. I don't really want to dump a bunch of $$ into a transmission right now.

4. Rebuild stock turbo with '95 wheel ("Wicked Wheel 1")...though I wanted a WW2...that will be shortly Eliminated turbo surge, resulting in a more continuous power flow without the big dip in the middle.

5. Swapped to 6.0 Transmission Cooler- to keep trans cooler and extend its life, keeping it in the more efficient and non-damaging temps- even while towing

6. Fuel mods/fixes such as Hutch Mod (absolutely, without a doubt, MUST do!), replaced all soft fuel lines on the suction side of pump. Rebuilt fuel bowl, including new Parker sleeves for fuel lines.

7. HPx and FRx to quiet and better balance pressures in oil and fuel systems.

8. Fully flushed cooling system and switched to CAT EC-1 compliant ELC coolant. Replaced radiator hoses (top now goes around the belt). Replaced serpentine belt while there.

9. New injector orings and cleanup (Really made a difference!)

10. New UVCH and gaskets. Replaced glowplugs with OEM while there

11. Suspension modded for F350 springs and Helwig rear sway bar to better handle towing loads and cornering.

12. Lots of logging of data and posting/analysis of the graphs to find and fix problems. Included bad ICP sensor, bad clutch fan, EBP was unplugged (and now needs cleaned and tube replaced)

13. Fixed intake and exhaust leaks as found. Not yet perfect but getting better.

14. Today installing Hydra tuner with Gearhead custom tunes. This will allow me to toggle between "calm and efficient" to "sporty and heavy on the skinny" to "strong towing without melting" and lots in between

15. I elected to go with larger tires to push my effective gear ratio from 3.73 closer to 3.55 for the long haul efficiency and dump power via tunes to the wheels for the less common towing at the expense of extra fuel.



In my opinion, this is the top of the "stock" tuning level for the way MY truck will be used (see my build thread in my signature for more details on any of the above, including discussion and input from others).

The next level would be larger sticks, improved turbo (larger, wheel, etc?), S&B filter/intake, Heavy Duty or built trans (HD4r100, etc), heavy duty torque converter, maybe better High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) and fuel system (full regulated return), suspension mods to prevent axle twist, and more aggressive tunes.

In addition, more aggressive means pushing your 13yr old truck harder. It's more likely to wear or break faster- which is why each mod should have supporting mods to work together to prevent just that

Results?

Even without the tunes running, I have noticed a SUBSTANTIAL difference! My Excursion starts faster, is quieter and smoother, accelerates quickly and smoothly, is now very reliable, and is a pleasure to drive

Without tunes, I was grossing about 17.5k with the camper and performed quite well- except for the steepest and longest hill, where I craved the tuner

If I had planned for larger sticks in the future, I would have chosen S&B instead of AIS so I wouldn't have to replace it when upgrading...those kinds of smart decisions are what you want to do. Keep every mod or new part in the same category as the mods you have and where you are going with them.

It's not as simple as just throwing larger sticks in there and buying some canned tunes. Sure, that CAN get you a real kick in the pants, but often at the expense of other things in these older trucks.

If you want to go that way, be smart and make a plan to save money and time and keep your truck parts working and working together. Be wise and post the details and heed sage advice. Ask lots of questions, educate yourself with the links that will surely be posted as responses, etc.

A great thread that helped me was "Chip Chasers" by Tugly (Rich). It's long, but the gist of it is to get your truck as close to 100% before throwing tunes and performance upgrades at it. (Though some "upgrades" replace worn or marginal parts)

You're in the right place. You're starting to ask the right questions to the right people.

Long post....but it could save you some time and get you started on your project sooner

But- thinking through it shouldn't be a quick and simple thing, not if you want good results and minimal frustrations.

Sooo....What do you want to do with the truck? How long do you want it to last? How much do you want to spend (rhetorical, but think about your budget)?

Hope this helps

 

Thanks for the advice. I have been trying to do this as best as I can (check my signature), but I am to the point now where its time to upgrade from stock.

I use my truck for... well, everything:
-Towing dump trailers, boats, campers, etc.
-Economy, I regularly embark on long distance trips down the interstate at 70mph.
-It is also my daily, but I just bought a motorcycle so I will be driving it less during the summer.
-Racing. I wanna bring it to the track a couple times. Nothing record-shattering, but I would like it to at least keep up with a stock cummins or duramax.

I am looking for an injector that is at the level where my supporting mods will be able to sustain it. If a 238/100 is too big, that's what I need to know. If I can easily go bigger than a 160/30, I also would like to know that. I want it to have the most pep it can have without needing a turbo bigger than an s366, major oil upgrades, or other major (expensive) supporting mods.
Is there an injector that fits this criteria? At what size injector will an FRx no longer cut it and would require a true regulated return? Stuff like that.

Thanks sages!

 

I ran 175/146 single shots and it had ok power chipped. I had it tuned for sustained power instead of short bursts of power. This way I could tow with the accelerator buried and not worry about egts. Max egts were 1300F pulling the steepest grades on I70.

Even lugging, slight haze. While I did have an S366 and built motor, i only ran an adrenalin and regulated return.