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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 06:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk

I know a '72 390 would still have points & condenser ignition.
DuraSpark Electronic Ignition introduced in 1974, but not all vehicles came with it until 1976.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 07:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by markeyd
Is there a way to tell if the electronic ignition system needs replacing. I am not sure if it came out of the 1972, or where it came from . . . Thanks
You want to at least look at the plugs, to determine how well the fuel mixture is burned in the combustion chamber. Each plug, whether fouled or deposits, glazed, cracked, or light tan in color, is a window into the mechanical health of the engine and state of tune, even whether the timing is set correctly.

Observe the color of the spark of a grounded plug while the motor is being cranked. It should be bright, whitish/blue with audible snap. Orange or reddish means a weak spark.

Don't replace anything unless it's necessary or considered part of routine maintenance. You'll find plenty of things that NEED it by now. Electronic ignition isn't at the top of the list usually.

Often overlooked are the battery cables to block and solenoid, starter etc, grounding straps to frame and body. Wires and plugs are part of a tune up as well.

Ignition, lights, and accessories like the heater blower draw a LOT of current. Poor connections, weak alternator etc, weak charging means noticeably weak spark.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 08:00 AM
  #18  
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^^^ good advice, Tedster9! I agree totally!

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 08:07 PM
  #19  
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Agreed, thanks. The only reason why I mentioned the electronic ignition system is because another poster mentioned it. Right now my list is so long that 'if it aint broke" i aint fixing it.

Will do plugs and wires tomorrow. After that, all the basic maintenance will have been done, and all the major broken parts fixed. I'll check for vacuum leaks, and that will leave the carb for tinkering, rebuilding or replacing if still necessary.

I am toying with the idea of (not right now), but at some point putting a new carb on there, but will start (or search for) another thread to discuss which one.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #20  
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Replacing plugs and wires made a big difference. Did not have to warm it as long, did not stall when I put it in reverse to back out of my garage, and did not stall at all. Engine sounds great. Now I just need to work on fixing the leaking fluids one by one . . .
 
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Old Aug 1, 2015 | 06:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by markeyd
Thanks Barnie. I am buying that book for sure.
Markeyd,
Did you get your Tune Up book yet?

You haven't said anything more about checking the condition or simply changing out the old points, condenser, condition of the rotor contacts or distributor cap or checking the timing..... How steady is the timing light or does it move around - indicating a worn distributor shaft...... ?

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 01:17 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk
Markeyd,
Did you get your Tune Up book yet?

You haven't said anything more about checking the condition or simply changing out the old points, condenser, condition of the rotor contacts or distributor cap or checking the timing..... How steady is the timing light or does it move around - indicating a worn distributor shaft...... ?

BarnieTrk
I ordered the book, but it did not come yet. In the meantime I changed the spark plugs, and wires. That, in conjunction with the other maintenance I did solved most of my issues. The PO installed an electric ignition so there are no points. The engine sounds real nice now.

I have a feeling the carb could use a rebuild, but I am going to work on some other issues for now, and come back to that later. I have fluid leaking out of everything that contains it, so I have been busy replacing seals here and there.

Since replacing plugs and wires though it is running pretty well. I'll try and fine tune later.

Also, the old spark plugs looked good. That light brownish color.

Thank you for all your help.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 06:39 PM
  #23  
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SO, I rebuilt the carb and now it runs like a new truck. No more long warm ups fully choked, no more stalling and sputtering. That thing was in bad shape. Runs great now though. Thanks everyone
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 07:46 AM
  #24  
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BarnieTrk -

I finally got hold of a timing light, and found that timing was way off. Runs a lot better now. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 08:19 AM
  #25  
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Good deal, Markeyd. You're making good progress with your truck!
It's always a good feeling to have your ol' truck running smoothly. You'll likely even see an improvement in fuel mileage as well.

Earlier you mentioned you thought your alternator might be bad.
Were you able to get it over to CarQuest for them to put it on their test machine?
What have you end up doing with it?

Winter is around the corner. What is the condition of the coolant/heater core/heater hoses/radiator and radiator hoses? Maybe its time to drain it, flush it out with a garden hose, make any necessary repairs or replace any hoses or thermostat, then refill the coolant with a new 50/50% mixture? Does your heater/defroster fan work well?

BarnieTrk
 
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Old Aug 30, 2015 | 08:52 PM
  #26  
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Thanks, good advice. I did wind up replacing the alternator which was needed. My antifreeze is good, but one of the core plugs are leaking so I am going to drain it for that repair.

It runs near perfect, but once in a while, and not always there is a bit of a rough idle still. When I am on the gas accelerating it is smooth as butter, but once in a while, it'll sputter a little when idling. I am going to check for vacuum leaks. PCV valve is good.

Thanks again
 
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