So, my 66 f-100 has a 390 in it with the Autoline carb that engine came with (when it was pulled from a '72 f-250). Carbs are kind of new to me. I have to keep my foot on the gas until it warms up or the car will stall, or stall when backing out of the garage.

Since running a couple cans of carb cleaner through it, rarely stalls when driving anymore (at a stop sign, etc.) - so i noticed some improvement. But sometimes it runs a little choppy even when warmed up. I can always just avoid stopping at stop signs . . .

My first question is: is it normal to have to keep your foot on the gas just to keep it from stalling when you start?

Is this to be expected regardless of the brand carb I have?

I'd rather not mess with rebuilding the carb. A rebuilt replacement is $132 on rockauto. If I were to spend a few hours on rebuilding the carb that is worth the $132 because I have a lot going on right now.

Would replacing with a rebuilt carb solve this issue? Would switching to a Holley 2 barrel be a worthwhile upgrade. Not looking for more power, necessarily, just reliability . . .

thanks!

 

I have to give my truck gas to warm up also. In the summer it take like 5 to 10 seconds to be fully warm. In the winter obviously it takes longer. Is it normal? Not so sure myself. Im no expert, Im still young. Just turned 20 two weeks ago. Oh i had the carb rebuilt also. And ounce it is fully warm it will never stall.

 

Obviously there is no manual choke on the carb of this 72 engine. So you press the gas pedal to set the automatic choke and start the engine. This is where adjustment of the fast idle speed comes into play. Once the engine warms up you tap the gas and drop the idle speed down as the fast idle cam has done it's job. Sounds like your fast idle speed is too low and so you compensate.

As far as reliability the Autolite 2100 and/or in your case maybe a Motorcraft 2150 are pretty basic and reliable carbs. Simple to rebuild and to tune.

Motorcraft 2150 2V Carburetor

Motorcraft 2150 rebuild. pic heavy. - Page 2 - International Full Size Jeep Association

http://c805745.r45.cf2.rackcdn.com/m...100_manual.pdf

Autolite 2100 Carburetor Rebuild

 

Markeyd,

I agree with what 'tbm3fan' said.

Does your carb have a tag # on it?

I prefer to use a carb equipped with a manual choke that I can manually control when the engine is cold or the outside air temp is cold. Sometimes you can convert an electric choke to a manual choke control; you might want to look around for one.

If you have a tag #, then you can get a price for a kit. I suspect you could buy a rebuild kit for less than half of the $132 cost of a rebuilt carb. I would also say your Autolite would not be that difficult to rebuild nor would it not require special tools. You just have to have a clean place/table to do it on and take your time while you do it. If an old guy with bad eyes like me can do it, you can do it!

BarnieTrk

 

Thanks I forgot to mention thahadt it is a manual choke. sounds like it needs a rebuild. I wonder if the sputter while acceleration though means there is a problem with the fuel pump.

 

Motorcraft 2150 2V introduced in 1975, 1962/72 V8's came with the Autolite 2100 2V, 1973/74 V8's came with Motorcraft 2100 2V. Same carb as the Auto-Lite, just a different name for it.

A carb ID tag number is not required to get a carb kit for the 2100 2V, as the kit is the same 1962/74.

D4AZ-9A586-A (replaced C2AZ-9A586-B) .. 2100 series Auto-Lite/Motorcraft 2V Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT-499-D) / Available from Ford (MSRP: $40.08) & auto parts stores.

1970/74's came with a choke pull-off diaphragm located in the air horn. It does not come with the kit.

D0AZ-9J549-C .. Choke Pull-Off Diaphragm (Motorcraft CM-1283) / Obsolete ~ Available NOS & from auto parts stores.

 

Possibly, but for a sputtering on acceleration, I'd first take a close look at the fuel filter (meaning simply change it), then clean/rebuild the carb figuring for some sort of gummed up blockages.

I have found that when a pump goes bad, it is the diaphragm that starts to leak fuel into the crankcase, causing the oil level to go up, due to the addition of gasoline into the motor oil. If your motor oil level is gaining, if it smells like gasoline, and seems to be thinner, the pump diaphragm is likely shot.

BarnieTrk

 

Yes. Changing the filter is the first thing I did. Then I ran carb cleaner through the carb. Noticed some improvement, and found that there may have been old gas in the tank from the previous owner. Now that I've run a few tanks of fresh gas through it it's better, but not perfect.

I was thinking fuel pump, or carb, or both. I'll take your advice. Thanks.

 

Markeyd,

When was the last time that 390 got a new set of sparkplugs (correctly gapped) and had its timing checked/set? Maybe its time......

I think a '72 390 would still have points & condenser ignition. If those parts haven't been freshened in the past year or so, I'd plan on new ignition points (also make sure the points gap is set correctly), a new condenser, new rotor and distributor cap. You may want build a notebook with the tuning specs & part numbers that would apply to your '72 390.

If you have a Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM), I'd suggest you take a few minutes & test the resistance of each sparkplug wire and the coil wire (from the distributor to coil). Your sparkplug/coil wires may be tired and need of replacement. If the wires are breaking down, they could contribute to a spuddering condition. Depending on the length, typically a good wire should have between 3000 - 6000 ohms of resistance. Over 10,000 ohms, it's may still fire, sort of, but it's junk.

I check mine every other year or so and have replaced just the wire that was bad. I have a few spare sparkplug wires - obtained from my local junkyard. I looked for some wires that are at least 8mm, nice condition, and long. Most newer wrecks have good wires still. I test them with my VOM to ensure they are still good before I take them up to the yard master. The reason for only long ones is because I can always shorten them to match the wire I'm replacing. I have a friend who says I'm dumb for doing this practice - but I don't care. Maybe eventually I'll just go buy a brand-new set of sparkplug wires, but for now my way is fine with me.

BarnieTrk

 

Interesting, Barnie. I don't subscribe to it, but some people claim plug wires are a consumable and should be replaced about every year!

These older trucks are really to the point where halfway or partial measures don't help as much as they might say, in a newer rig. Fuel system needs either a new tank or one that is thoroughly cleaned out. New rubber hose and clamps, hard line replaced or at least blown out, new fuel pump and/or filters. Then adjust float level and idle mixture.

 

Thanks Barnie. As a matter of fact I ordered plugs and wires the other night. The truck is definitely due. I have an electronic ignition - no points, so I plan to gap them at .40 for this engine.

I noticed another problem tonight I had not noticed before. My alternator light comes on when stopped, and that is when the car tends to stall. Forgive my ignorance: I am new to turning a wrench, and new to older vehicles but there is an alternator guage in the truck. -30 on one end, 0 in the middle, and +30 on the right. When I idle or drive it's usually at 0. When the car sputtered tonight at red lights, etc., the alt light came on and the needle was way into the negative side.

pully is tight (about 1/2 inch or less of give), and connections seem ok. The alternator is rusty, crusty and old. Just like the starter that I recently had to replace.

I keep the battery on a tender so didn't notice a problem with starting (since replacing the starter) but did have the voltage drop on me after driving around the neightborhood by a few volts.

I think I need an alternator. I'll pull it out tomorrow morning and bring it to Car Quest to have them test it.

 

The ammeter should stay centered generally speaking. The battery really has only one function - start the engine. Once the alternator spools up it provides all of the current to power the ignition, lights and accessories. If the alternator has a fault then the gauge will show that.

Use your voltmeter for some simple in vehicle tests - may save you a trip.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm

 

Tedster9,
I hear ya and I agree.... these old trucks are NOT like our new trucks. They are very different. They really don't need as much to keep them running, but that is because they are a LOT simpler machine. As their current care-provider, the best we can do is to think and act as their owner's / service manuals tells us to do.

Markeyd,
Personally, I wouldn't mess with an electronic ignition system; for less than $100, you might be further ahead to just buy a NEW distributor - that way it would come with the new ignition parts I mentioned in my earlier response AND the distributor shaft bushings would be snug & not worn & wobbly when you put the timing light on it. You'd be styling with a tight distributor! Such as a CARDONE SELECT, #84-2807. That way you can run the sparkplugs gapped as they were meant to be run. Their sparkplug wires typically will last much longer than the wires on newer vehicles - because they don't run such high voltages as the newer vehicles need to run. Same goes for their coils.

Regarding your alternator: Remember these old trucks don't have all the circuitry built into their alternators like the alternators on more modern vehicles. These ol' Beasts of Burden have external voltage regulators. It may be that the voltage regulator has seen better days and needs a $25 replacement....so don't be surprised if your friendly neighborhood Car Quest store doesn't find anything wrong with your alternator....that is IF they can even test it...simply because some of our modern auto parts supply stores are just not set up to test a 50 year old alternator. So your '66 has an alternator light AND a ALT gauge? Is it the custom cab instrument cluster with the optional OIL and ALT gauges?

In the meantime, I would suggest you order up a good reference book on the proper care & handling of these tuff ol' Slicks that, for whatever reason, are still living with us yet today. Most of these books will provide a troubleshooting guide in tracking down what to check for when mechanical ailments arise.

Here is a decent one to start with: Chilton's Ford Trucks, 1965-1986 Repair & Tune up guide; ISBN-10: 0801976626 And it's less than $20.

The above book will cover the basics of your '66 as well as the service & care needed of your '72 engine.


I had a young fella once ask me WHY would I want to drive THAT ol' truck.... I responded with "Why wouldn't I...it's got history, Dude". Then I asked him, "So where do you think your Toyota Supra will be when it turns 50?" I ended the short discussion with, "Well, come to think of it, I can't even say I have ever seen a 50 year old Toyota...not even a picture of one."

My above story reminds me of my favorite T-Shirt worn by many Jeep Wrangler owners; "ITS A JEEP THING - YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND."

So don't get frustrated working the bugs outta your ol' friend,,,,,, take good care of him and he'll repay you with dependable service for a long time.

BarnieTrk

 

Thanks Barnie. I am buying that book for sure. I bought this truck because I like the nostalgic feel of driving an old vehicle. Just discovered a fuel leak from a crusty line, and the valve covers are leaking oil, the list goes on . . . BUT I am committing to slowly, and over time getting everything in order. Once the mechanicals are squared away I'll worry about the body which is in pretty good shape.

My son loves this truck, and he's 8 years old. He's already talking about driving it some day. I do not want to let him down. Thanks.

 

Is there a way to tell if the electronic ignition system needs replacing. I am not sure if it came out of the 1972, or where it came from . . .

Thanks