I feel like a fool but my kickstand dosen't act like I expected. 2004 6L. I used a 1/2" ratchet to relieve tension then tried moving what I thought is kickstand ( 1/4tr w X 1&1/2 thin metal u shaped gadget on bottom of tensioner). I expected it to move with slight spring tension,although I was useing one finger it bent instead. When I let go of ratchet the belt remained slack. When I finished and inspected the supposed kickstand,I could not see where it was doing anything but useing the ratchet again I tried moving the KS. Again all it did was bend and belt stayed slack when ratchet was removed. I can pull tension on the belt with ratchet but there doesn't appear to be any spring tension,feels to be moderate friction holding tensioner anywhere I move it to. I'm worried about the belt coming off so havn't started engine. Any thoughts on this? BTW,I wasn't having any problem with belt slipping before doing this. Only things I changed was a/c clutch and belt. I'm too dumb to post a pic,sorry.

 

Have you tried to lube the tensioner with pb blaster and working it back and forth? Sounds like it's seized up.

 

Sounds odd, and since these tensioners aren't cheap, I hope it's not broken.

Here are some pics to help the conversation:

 

It does seem to be seized and I havn't tried lubing it. Is lubricating tensioner a common maintainance item? I bought the truck new and the engine bay has no evidence of corosion eventhough I have never washed the engine. I find it strange both tensioner and kickstand are seized. Thanks for replying 78ford.

 

Thanks Matt,I'm relieved to know I wasn't messing with the wrong gizmo. Mine is exactly as in your pics,other than being frozen in place. I took 78ford's advise,set tensioner to slack position,covered belts and pullies below then gave tensioner and ks a dw40 bath. We'll see if it thaws out and kicks back to tensioned position overnight.

 

The good news is that it's not that hard to remove the thing
if you want to pull it out and give it a heavier bath in some oil
of some type.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

That's true,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,after the *&^@$%# fan and shrouds have been removed.
It didn't free up overnight so that's my next step then it's off to buy a new tensioner if that doesn't work. Is the small bolt on front only holding the black cover on or will the spring spiral out to smack your face when removed?

 

It looks as though most if not all instructions I read (several in recent years) about setting the kickstand origionated from "I Herd" and "Tha Said". It's long been known that Mr Herd and Mr Said don't always tell it straight. The ks IS STAKED IN PLACE and DOES NOT SWIVLE,PEVIOT nor SWING. I removed the tensioner to inspect it. The ks is made of same material used for cheap roof flashing and tomato cans. There is no way that rinky dink trinkit will both set and trip simply by tugging the belt or moving tensioner with a tool. It might do one but not the other,depending on how it happens to be bent at the moment. Take a piece of advise,do not put your fingers between the belt and a pulley while the tensioner is held by the ks. As soon as you slide belt off a pulley,just release the tensioner until you are ready to reinstall belt.
The 10mm bolt I asked about earlier that sits in enter of tensioner is simply one of two mounting bolts. After spraying it full of PB Blaster the spring still stays anywhere I set it so I'm replacing the tensioner.
Some side notes,removing the shrouds and fan isn't near as difficult as it appears from looking at them. Just bring out the big guns and eat your Wheaties before unscrewing the fan. I've read debates about leaving the rear shroud off to alow easier access to front of engine. My conclusion after inspecting it is that it plays a huge role in a/c function and fluid cooling. I know this as a result of tests I've made on home a/c condensers. As the blade is moved on motor shaft into and out of the shroud operating pressure rises and falls. The optimum position is with about 80% of blade incircled by shroud. I will be reinstalling both shrouds for now. If rear shroud can have half or more clipped away without exposing too much blade I may alter it next time it's removed. On the same subject,once is usually enough to destroy a diesel if it over heats. It is for that reason the cooling system must be at 100% effeciency all the time. Unless you tow heavy in hills during 90+deg weather you most likly never heard your fan operating. It would be in those conditions where the fan roars for 30 secounds 3 times during a climb that the engine could melt down unless cooling was right.
Thanks for your words of wisdom and incouragment. Long live FTE

 

The only thing I removed was the alt and that top little snap into place
air director. No blood loss and lots of room to work on things. Then when
I set the kick-stand I just used a finger to push in to the passenger side.
Got the belt in place and put a little tension back on the belt and the
kick-stand popped back out and I got full tension back on the belt.

I think part of why I don't have all the reported problems with things
is I am used to working on equipment that does not give you much
for room to work in and the engine bay of the 6.0 seems very open.
Perceived space is relative to what you compare it to. I am used to
doing a lot of work by feel and every now and then pulling the hands
back out to have a look at things.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder

 

Glad you got it fixed. The tensioner kick stand has to be set by hand and is plenty stout enough to hold it up, once you are finished and have the belt back in place you only need to give a good tug on the belt and it will release the kick stand. And the tensioner can be replaced with the fan stator in place.

 

These people are talking from hands on experience not hear/say.
While the kick stand is flimsy it will hold the tensioner in place. Quite often it gets broken or rusted off. It is mounted with only a rollpin easyly rusts off.

As mentioned you can remove the belt; tensioner without removeing anything. The belt trick does work but ya need a little muscle or leverage to get it to work.
Three hands would also be a plus but not strictly necessary.

 

Another part of why you have less problem than some is because you have "hide"on your hands and arms while some of us have one step above" wet Kleenx" covering us,and blood thinners don't help either. I still injoy wrenching,just less of it per sesson. Kinda goes with the rest of my life style of taking all day long to do what I once could do all day long.

 

I know what your saying Sean. I know what I can do vrs. what I want to do. I now leave a day or two for jobs that I once considered an hour or two. I no longer work on a vehicle till dark. I'm retired and can't justify putting myself thru that anymore.

 

I have up coming ball joints and brakes on both ends to do.
Anyone want to bet how many days? I am not fast and I do get
some sacrificial blood for the truck goddess.

I just look at things and see how I can do something with the least amount
of parts to put back on after I get to what I am working on. Sometimes I
get bit by it.

I'll start a thread when I get ready to do it so we can time the job.


Sean

6.0L Tech Folder