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6.0 advice wanted

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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 05:04 PM
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6.0 advice wanted

Hello everyone, I recently bought a late 04 cclb lariat f350 srw with 160k on it. Was told the truck was stock by the dealer so being the go getter mechanic I am I decided almost immediately after buying the truck I was going to an egr delete and 4 inch turbo back exhaust. I also decided while I was in there I was going to pull the oil cooler and reseal/inspect everything I ordered all ford oem parts. Anyway I tore it all down only to see my egr cooler was already very nicely blocked off on both ends! So long story short I did alot of work for no reason and now it has come back to bite me! Truck ran normal for a few weeks but occasionally had an odd stutter under light acceleration. This problem got worse and last week I revved it up to 3k it was slow to climb and chugged very hard it then idled down and died. Couldn't get it restarted. Using my friends torquer app we found the ipr and icp were both low while cranking pulled icp sensor still no start. Did some more research on my symptoms and decided to pull the ipr valve. Screen had a hole blow right through the middle and had small pieces of hard plastic down in the valve. Ended up installing a new Ford oem valve, truck literally started first crank! All readings were in or above spec took it for a drive and got it up to temp and my stutter symptoms started acting up again. I'm assuming my ipr is starting to plug again. Probably going to have to pull it again my concern is I'm going to have to keep doing this or keep reuning $280 ipr valves. Any ideas how to get my self inflicted oil contamination problem solved? Also there were 0 metal pieces in valve and hpop numbers are very healthy.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 08:12 PM
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You can clean the IPR if there isn't too much contamination/damage in it. There is a YouTube video on it.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
You can clean the IPR if there isn't too much contamination/damage in it. There is a YouTube video on it.
I realize that I just don't want to have to continually have to remove the valve or risk another failure. I'm thinking I'll need to change oil and filter again. Probably switch to synthetic. Any ideas on flushing the oil system?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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Flushing the oil is ill-advised IMO.

The oil circulates at 20 gpm. I doubt that you will experience a continuous process of constantly fouling IPRs. More than likely, pulling and cleaning one more time will be the end of it (and not cause you multiple expenses of $280).
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:16 PM
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Would you recommend changing oil/ filter? I did after all other work was completeled which was about 1000 miles ago.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:25 PM
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I think synthetic oil is best in our engines. That being said, I would probably not change the oil/filter until at least 3000 miles - just to get most of the value out of your last oil change expense.

Just an fyi - buy your parts at AutoNation White Bear Lake (through FordParts.com). IPR's are only $190.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Thanks, I thought I was being clean with everything when I had the oil cooler out I even used a suction gun to clean out the valley apartently didnt get all the debris out. Still not sure what that plastic was my old oil cooler screen was in good condition. I regret even touching a wrench to the damn thing but to late now.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 11:15 PM
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Maybe the egr cooler was blocked off when the previous owner had to replace the hpop. Early hpop versions had plastic/carbon internal parts and when they exploded, parts of plastic evidently went everywhere, including the IPR.
Maybe just a possibility?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 11:20 PM
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That is possible. The funny thing about all this all of this work was done before my plates even came in the mail! Hopefully my unlucky days are soon to be through for awhile. Going to pull and clean ipr again, and replace my degas bottle the inlet nipple broke off seeing as I've had it on and off I think 4 times already!
 
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 11:43 AM
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I don't know if you've checked this closely, but small plastic parts screams inside the oil filter housing itself. It could also be the filter standpipe. Just random thoughts.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic
You can clean the IPR if there isn't too much contamination/damage in it. There is a YouTube video on it.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 10:11 PM
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Alright guys pulled ipr again, screen looked like it did it's job but was dented in. This was not an update screen. Cleaned and reinstalled ipr with new update screen. Took truck on a good drive. WOT is strong so is slow steady acceration, engine still is running rough between 1500 and 2000 rpm once up to highway speed it is normal. Came back to shop and drained and screened oil with engine still hot. Put new filter on, ran fresh oil through hot engine with plug still out. Screened oil again and put it back in (oil has very low miles on it). Parked at idle my ipr is 23.2%, ficm voltage is 48 volts, HPOP is 580. Parked at 1200 rpm HPOP 727, IPR 27, Ficm 48, parked at 1500 rpm, HPOP 854, IPR 31, ficm 48. Parked at 3000 rpm, HPOP is 1900, IPR is 54, ficm 48, 3200 rpm, 2122 HPOP, IPR 52, ficm 48. Anything jump out at anyone? Was not able to keep track while driving. Thanks again!
 
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