A/C Compressor Clutch
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A/C Compressor Clutch
2005 Ford Expedition, shop said my A/C clutch has stopped working and needs to be replaced. Does anybody have part numbers for the parts I need? I'm not finding an a/c clutch kit like is offered on other vehicles I'm just seeing separate pieces. Thanks
Hotshot
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From: St Louis
shop said my A/C clutch has stopped working
You need either a better diagnosis of a more accurate nature or a better description of what the shop found in order for us to accurately second guess them.
It's rare that one actually needs the complete clutch kit of the pulley, coil and hub. By the time you do all that, you could have bought a loaded compressor. It's often more effective to simply purchase the particular component when needed if doing a piece-part repair.
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So back to the shop it goes. How difficult is the job of replacing just part of the clutch? I notice it's towards the bottom of the engine. I'm trying to get a cost vs benefit idea here and I can see the positives of replacing the whole a/c compressor but the downside is to recharging the system because that's something I can't do. So I'm looking into what it would take to just do the "minimum" repair to get it working again
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Southern Cal
Just remember the clutch operates on specific tolerances to engage. Sometimes, the clutch assembly falls outside of the proper gap and can't engage.
You might first measure the gap to spec and if necessary pull it apart and shim accordingly.
One bolt to pull apart.
A very easy process to save some $$$ if it's off.
You might first measure the gap to spec and if necessary pull it apart and shim accordingly.
One bolt to pull apart.
A very easy process to save some $$$ if it's off.
Fleet Owner
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From: 0,0,1
Out of the vehicle it's a piece of cake, in the vehicle it rates an 8 on a 10 scale for difficulty. I say that mostly because of clearance issues. Also, you will have to remove the passenger tire wheel well skirt and access the compressor from that side and underneath.
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On my '05, it was very easy to inspect the clutch on my AC compressor. Just put a piece of plywood or cardboard on the ground and lay down under the car, and you'll have more than enough space to unscrew the one nut and pull the clutch off. But, that's about as much as you can do, if the coil is bad or anything like that, you need to get the compressor out of the truck in order to work on it. At that point, I'd just buy a new compressor for around 200 bucks from Four Seasons, as it's more than half of that to replace coil and pulley/clutch assembly, plus all the work getting the thing out of the car...
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Fleet Owner
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Since it stopped working the chances are high that the problem is the coil and it will have to come off. As for removing the compressor to replace it, not only is it over twice the cost of the coil, but you then have to add on the refrigerant evacuation and recharge costs. So he's much better off disassembling the pulley and replacing the coil, if indeed it is a bad coil.
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I agree fully on that, but to replace the coil while the compressor is still in the vehicle is gonna be a royal pain. It's pressed on to the compressor, so need a puller and then some you'll have the challenge of pressing the new coil back on without damaging it. But do a continuity check of the coil first, to check if it's really bad or not. Disconnect it and ohm it with a ohm-meter (digital multimeter)
Fleet Owner
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From: 0,0,1
He can also go into the Auxiliary Relay Box #1 behind the drivers headlight and pull out the A/C coil diode. Then using an ohm meter to take a reading where the diode had plugged in. Those 2 terminals are parallel to the A/C clutch coil. If I recall correctly he should get around 2-5 ohms if the coil (and wiring) are good.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
If I recall correctly he should get around 2-5 ohms if the coil (and wiring) are good.
Keep in mind that it fails this test, he must next test directly at the coil terminals. An open in the wiring harness might be in play and, if the last diagnostic step is skipped, he might find that replacing the coil didn't fix the problem.
Fleet Owner
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I hear you, that why I was clear to write, "he should get around 2-5 ohms if the coil (and wiring) are good". Hopefully he gets back to us with results so we can advance him to the next step.
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Sorry guys I have been doing things getting ready for the baby. (Due next month) and now I start my shift at the station again so on wednesday I will be testing to see what exactly my problem is and replying with what I find. Thanks for the input and I'll post again Wednesday.
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