I got the bug, and I spotted these on Riffraff. Just wondering which one is the better system?


Ford - 99-03 Super Duty 7.3L - Intakes, Intercoolers & Related - Intake Manifolds & Plenums - Riffraff Diesel Performance


I like the way these systems separate the Hot vs Cooled charged air. It also looks like you can reuse the factory pipe connectors.


I have heard of AFe and I like the looks of that one, it has some more brackets and fittings than the CFM+, but that good just be the picture.


Should I also install a Wicked Wheel also?


I have a 2000 F-350 dually and still running factory intake and exhaust, but not for long. I would like to get the 5" Magnaflow, the 4" does not look like much of a upgrade. I have also not decided on a intake system, I like the looks of the S&B system Ford - 99-03 Super Duty 7.3L - Intakes, Intercoolers & Related - Intake Systems & Replacement Filters - S&B CAI Systems - Riffraff Diesel Performanceor the factory AIS Ford - 99-03 Super Duty 7.3L - Intakes, Intercoolers & Related - Intake Systems & Replacement Filters - Ford AIS Intake - Riffraff Diesel Performance




So far the only mod is the AIH delete and the Frx mod.


FYI, my goal is to have a reliable and cool running 550 lb/ft torque, that can pull and not overheat or over fuel to obtain that power level.

 

I was wondering the same thing

 

We will see, it does not look like a common mod. I would love to see and touch one before I decided. They look so close, I bet either would be a good upgrade.

 

I have the Bladerunner on mine and everything fits like a stock spider. It is also CARB approved if you get any hassle from the smog guys. Don't know about the other one.

 

What is your tolerance for turbo noise under the hood (vs. out the pipe)? The pipe has a nice whistle that sounds masculine at lower speeds, but a loud turbo intake is like driving with tinnitus. If you just drive in town, the loud turbo can sound fun. For long hauls, you'll be reaching for a maul to beat that turbo with - screeching at the top of your lungs "STFU".

Stock injectors: Tuned or not, the AIS can handle anything those sticks can dish out, do it quietly, look stock, be easily serviceable, and last a very long time. If you want some subtle turbo noise under the hood, the S&B is a bigger breather than the AIS - but the pitfalls are clumsy serviceability, shorter spans between filter swaps, and intake noise/drone. The AFe is notoriously and significantly louder than the other two options, but it's a breather.

IH injectors: No matter the nozzle size, the 160-165 CC single-shot injector can exceed the limits of the AIS. This is where I had to swap out my beloved AIS for the next-quietest intake - the S&B.

4" vs. 5": 5" is akin to the ricer fart tubes - lots of show and noise without any gain in performance. I don't know of a mass-produced 5" downpipe that fits our trucks, maybe somebody else does. 4" hits the sweet spot for optimal air flow when the boost goes over 20 PSI, but doesn't exceed the valve spring limit of 40 PSI boost. The rule here is "slightly bigger is better".

 

Im wondering if the afe bladrunner intake actually makes a big difference, like if its really worth buying

 

"The AFe is notoriously and significantly louder than the other two options, but it's a breather."

I don't notice a lot of noise with my AFE set-up but as I have mentioned before I am hard of hearing and seldom have my hearing aids in while driving my truck. I am also running the Riff Raff 6x6 compressor wheel and there is a whistle at ~ 5-7 PSI boost, but below and above that it is not noticeable. For me at least. The owner of the shop that just replaced my steering box had one of his guys check the CAC boots because of it though.

 

I was talking about the intake manifold

 

Personally, I feel an upgraded compressor wheel would yield more positive results than the intake spider for the money spent.

 

Divorced intakes look cool, and might be marginally cooler on the intake temps, but measured by "bang for your buck" they are lousy. Nice new billet turbo wheel, 4" exhaust, tunes, S&B or AIS or 6637, all these will give you more bang for your buck.

To seriously approach your goal, a bigger turbo and injectors. Conventional wisdom is 400 hp is easily doable and reasonably priced. But 500 and up is a whole 'nuther $$ ballpark. There are lots of good threads on the subject of building power reliably, so do your homework. A lot of guys here with way more knowledge and experience than me. Read that, not the claims made by manufacturers.

 

Thanks for the info, will wait for the Bladrunner. I am shooting for 550 Torques, not HP. I was going to go with the 5" Exhaust, since I did not want to go with the 4 and then have to change it out to a 5. Sounds like the 5 is just for show. This is not a show truck. I still need a intake, and will order the S&B next. Just been busy with the Chicken coop, and I still need to change the coolant(it has the green stuff), rear diff cover, and trans fluid/filter. Oh and I ordered a Red Head steering box, just not delivered yet. I think it is lost in the mail

 

If the old steering box was bad you are gonna looove the new Red Head!

I like the '08 aluminum diff cover, good item at a decent price.

Are you sticking with green coolant? Changing to an ELC has advantages, but A) flushing the old stuff out completely is a PITA B) early models are use injector cup adhesive that is not compatible with ELC. I forget what years so read up on it. And C) ELC is expensive, and over time coolant tends to get spilled. If sticking with green maintain the SCAs. And a coolant filter will help your water pump live longer.

 

" If sticking with green maintain the SCAs. And a coolant filter will help your water pump live longer."

Part of the rub with ELC coolants is that CAT makes an ELC which is red but NOT EC1 rated. I found out the hard way and still need to do the flush routine all over again and install the EC1 rated stuff in the boxes in my shed. If you go with the conventional coolant a filter may not be a bad idea. If you let it get away from you the silica will precipitate out which leaves the "sand" many find in the system.
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Backing up the bus after reading the concerns - I'll share my opinion (can't state as gospel): Spending on air in and out is an investment in performance and cooler EGTs. Money spent on the flow between the turbo compressor outlet and the turbine inlet (beyond stock) has marginal returns - this is more for getting that last "nth" of horsepower.

Saying that, I installed billet plenums from Riffraff because I popped the RTV seal on my factory plenums. I didn't relish the idea of reusing those beer cans with the high boost of bigger sticks and a 38R, so I upgraded for reliability - not performance.