transmission problem with 01 excursion
transmission problem with 01 excursion
Hi. Got a fairly new transmission issue which I think is some sort of seal problem. We don't drive it very much, probably 3-5000 miles a year, so it sits a fair amount. couple years ago I changed the fluid and filter in it and now the gasket appears to be leaking, at least from what I can tell, but that I don't think is related to the current problem as there is still plenty of fluid in it.
a few months ago we used it to drive to drop our son at a boy scout function and go to Costco. When I picked him up (we probably put 60-80 miles on it that day up to this point), I backed up and felt like it spun in mud, or hoped it did. so it kind of straightened out, got up to the paved road and it did it again. this time I knew it wasn't spinning but slipping pretty bad. I checked fluid level but couldn't really tell the actual amount. I stopped and added some to it as a "safety" measure. seems like after driving a little bit it acts normal. fluid on the dip stick doesn't smelled burned. It is now when first start up, the rpm seems to indicate it slips, back up (parking area at a slight down slope), put in drive and nothing just rev and same in all the other gears including reverse. rev it up in gear it will eventually start to move. I don't think it has 50 miles on it since the problem first started but seems to be getting worse.
there is a peculiar problem that it has had since we owned it and not sure if this current problem is an extension of that. when the temps get cold, when you first start it and try to drive it, it would act like the line pressure is reduced and not transfer the power through the transmission. let it idle for a few minutes to warm up and it would work normal. I asked previously about it but now one had any suggestions.
could it be a seal inside it that is leaking pressure or fluid internally causing this slipping?
it has 140000+ on it and used 3-6 times a year to pull our 7000lb camper so I don't consider that to be abused.
any help appreciated. thank you
a few months ago we used it to drive to drop our son at a boy scout function and go to Costco. When I picked him up (we probably put 60-80 miles on it that day up to this point), I backed up and felt like it spun in mud, or hoped it did. so it kind of straightened out, got up to the paved road and it did it again. this time I knew it wasn't spinning but slipping pretty bad. I checked fluid level but couldn't really tell the actual amount. I stopped and added some to it as a "safety" measure. seems like after driving a little bit it acts normal. fluid on the dip stick doesn't smelled burned. It is now when first start up, the rpm seems to indicate it slips, back up (parking area at a slight down slope), put in drive and nothing just rev and same in all the other gears including reverse. rev it up in gear it will eventually start to move. I don't think it has 50 miles on it since the problem first started but seems to be getting worse.
there is a peculiar problem that it has had since we owned it and not sure if this current problem is an extension of that. when the temps get cold, when you first start it and try to drive it, it would act like the line pressure is reduced and not transfer the power through the transmission. let it idle for a few minutes to warm up and it would work normal. I asked previously about it but now one had any suggestions.
could it be a seal inside it that is leaking pressure or fluid internally causing this slipping?
it has 140000+ on it and used 3-6 times a year to pull our 7000lb camper so I don't consider that to be abused.
any help appreciated. thank you
If the trans is really slipping it will show up in the fluid pretty quickly. The fluid will turn dark, then brown, then black. It will also have a burnt odor.
There are some bolts between the valve body and the case that are hollow and feed pressure. If they loosen they leak pressure and you can get these symptoms.
There are some bolts between the valve body and the case that are hollow and feed pressure. If they loosen they leak pressure and you can get these symptoms.
If the trans is really slipping it will show up in the fluid pretty quickly. The fluid will turn dark, then brown, then black. It will also have a burnt odor.
There are some bolts between the valve body and the case that are hollow and feed pressure. If they loosen they leak pressure and you can get these symptoms.
There are some bolts between the valve body and the case that are hollow and feed pressure. If they loosen they leak pressure and you can get these symptoms.
The fluid didn't smell burned. I'll check it again tonight if I get a chance
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Mark, one other question (for now). what is the fluid that should go into it now? the original specified stuff isn't made anymore and want to make sure the right fluid goes back in. Thank you
Ok Mark, or anyone else, I am in need of some definite help.
First off is do I need to take off the electrical valve control and remove the metal valve gasket? I don't 3 bolts other than 3 that hold some block off plate. Plus that metal valve gasket has 7 or so ***** on top of it that will probably fall out and I need to know where those would go.
Here is a picture of where I stopped for now

My next problem is the first valve body I took off was bolted on the bigger one. When I took it off I didn't know there was 4 ***** sandwiched in between them. The two I'm pointing at I'm pretty sure are in the correct locations. The two at the top I don't know. One is a tan colored and the other is a dark blue or black and smaller. Where do those go? Attached is a picture

Thanks for any help anyone.
First off is do I need to take off the electrical valve control and remove the metal valve gasket? I don't 3 bolts other than 3 that hold some block off plate. Plus that metal valve gasket has 7 or so ***** on top of it that will probably fall out and I need to know where those would go.
Here is a picture of where I stopped for now

My next problem is the first valve body I took off was bolted on the bigger one. When I took it off I didn't know there was 4 ***** sandwiched in between them. The two I'm pointing at I'm pretty sure are in the correct locations. The two at the top I don't know. One is a tan colored and the other is a dark blue or black and smaller. Where do those go? Attached is a picture

Thanks for any help anyone.
update
I pulled the valve bodies, be careful of the check ***** between valve bodies. I was able to find pictures of where they go by doing searches. Powerstroke army has a really good thread filled with pictures.
got to the 3 pressure feed bolts. One was tight, the other two I might have gotten an 1/8 of a turn.
I ohmed the solenoid pack since it was out and that checked out in range for everything.
I put it all back together and new mercon V.
I drove it around, beat on it some and everything acts normal.
I did the line pressure testing last night and they checked up toward the top or slightly higher for all the checks, according to the gauge I used.
idle stall
range actual range actual
P & N 50-65 68 no spec
R 70-100 85 245-290 260-270 (this one rapidly pulsed so hard to read)
OD & 2 50-65 68 165-185 70
1 70-100 110 75-210 185
I pulled the camper last evening to get it inspected (7000lbs+) about 6 miles round trip with a mile long hill pull and everything acted normal.
with all this info, I will say the transmission is fine. not sure if that little bit on those two bolts were enough but I doubt it. maybe the external connection to the solenoid pack wasn't quite good so taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. Would like to know but glad it is working.
I pulled the valve bodies, be careful of the check ***** between valve bodies. I was able to find pictures of where they go by doing searches. Powerstroke army has a really good thread filled with pictures.
got to the 3 pressure feed bolts. One was tight, the other two I might have gotten an 1/8 of a turn.
I ohmed the solenoid pack since it was out and that checked out in range for everything.
I put it all back together and new mercon V.
I drove it around, beat on it some and everything acts normal.
I did the line pressure testing last night and they checked up toward the top or slightly higher for all the checks, according to the gauge I used.
idle stall
range actual range actual
P & N 50-65 68 no spec
R 70-100 85 245-290 260-270 (this one rapidly pulsed so hard to read)
OD & 2 50-65 68 165-185 70
1 70-100 110 75-210 185
I pulled the camper last evening to get it inspected (7000lbs+) about 6 miles round trip with a mile long hill pull and everything acted normal.
with all this info, I will say the transmission is fine. not sure if that little bit on those two bolts were enough but I doubt it. maybe the external connection to the solenoid pack wasn't quite good so taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. Would like to know but glad it is working.
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