Hey everyone,
When I go to put my transmission in P, R, N, D, 2, or 1 I have to wait a few minutes for the transmission to actually go into gear. Has anyone had this happen? The transmission is a c6.
Thanks,
Brayden

 

Check the fluid level. Start the engine and with it in park on level ground, pull the dipstick, wipe it off with a rag, and then stick it back in and pull it out and see where the level is.

While you are doing this also pay attention to the color of the fluid. If it's brown and smells a little burnt, changing the fluid may help it.

 

Yes, I've had that. On transmissions that have been sitting for a week or more it isn't unusual for it to take several seconds for the pressure to come up and the clutches to come in. My theory is that the seals have become hardened and leak, causing the delay until they get forced into the right position by increasing pressure.

Dave is right about the fluid. But let me take it further. ATF has many chemicals in it and each has its own purpose. One of those chemicals causes the seals to remain pliable and/or swell. However, over time that chemical, as well as other chemicals in the ATF, loose their effiectiveness. To replace it you have but one choice - replace all of the fluid. Yes, there are additives that help, but only temporarily.

A case in point: My SiL bought a Jeep that slipped badly in reverse as it never fully locked the clutch up in that direction. In fact, it was so bad it would barely back out of a parking spot and the slippage was shortening the life of the transmission very quickly. I explained what I thought the problem was and that it would take a complete change of the tranny's fluid to fix the problem. But, we could test the theory by dumping a can of seal-swell additive in the system. We did and the transmission almost immediately worked properly - but only for a few weeks. After he did that trick a couple of times he took it to two different transmissions shops, both of which told him that changing the fluid would ruin the transmission. Finally, after some urging, he found a shop that agreed to change the fluid. And from that point the transmission functioned properly for many years.

I'm not saying a fluid change will fix your transmission. But, if anything will fix it without a rebuild that will come the closest. However, if your transmission sits for a week or more at a time even a change of fluid may not be enough.

 

Thanks, I will try changing the fluid and see what that does.


Brayden

 

Don't forget that the torque converter holds a bunch of ATF. So, if you don't drain it you are wasting your time and money.

 

Ok so I finally got some time to change the fluid. I plan to drain the torque converter, the transmission pan, put a new filter in and change the gasket. Does anyone know how much transmission fluid I'm going to need after draining the pan and torque converter?
Thanks,
Brayden

 

I think the book calls for 16 quarts, but I typically only get 12 to 13 in.

 

Ok thanks... Also I plan on running O'reilly brand Dexron III-H/Mercon transmission fluid is this good fluid?

 

That's fine.

 

Ok so I got everything ready to drain the transmission fluid, but I can't seem to find the torque converter drain plug. Do all c6's have a torque converter drain plug?

 

I believe they all do. You pull the plate covering the torque convertor, and rotate the engine a few times until the plug stops down.

 

Is the cover with 4 bolts the one that covers the torque converter drain plug?

 

No. Don't take that off! The torque convertor cover is just behind the engine pan. Runs left/right and may be about 9-12" long - I'm guessing.

 

Correct - you see it behind the engine, right by the oil pan; the start motor contacts it and aligns in it IIRC.

 

Up there beside the starter.