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After a crazy motprcycle ride to east TN to pick up my new project, 1970 f100, I am now stuck 5 hours from home because the headlights will not stay on. Pulled the switch and it is really hot. Is there any way to rig it up to get me home? I have tools and wire but no relays. I could run relays if I had them but didn't bring any and I am stuck. Thanks for any help.
I'm thinking the ground is bad. I would also check the hot side connections and run some temporary ground wires.
Heat is usually an indication of resistance. I would check for corrosion on the hot side in on the lights and the switch. Like I said I might try temporary grounds on the lights and the switch.
I tried jist jumping.through the.connector.amd.pulling the switch. Lights worked when the door is open bit then when I closed the door everything went out. The door switch has been messed with and there are twp wires coming out. One is black with blue stripe and is getting hot, the other green with yellow.stripe...I think that is the headlight. Does that help anyone?
Not sure I know how to make temp grounds. Like tap in at the light and add a secure ground?
Update! After a little protein and some water my brain kicked in. I puled the switch from the connector and simply made a 1 to 3 male end "jumper". I plugged the "1" into the hot wire (I was accidentally using the door light as hot originally which is why it turned them off when I closed the door) and the other three into the slots for headlights, markers and dash. When I stopped I just unplugged the hot wire and all went off. It worked fine, never heated up and got me all the way home, 320 miles. I am utterly exhausted! I am too old for a 24 hour straight stretch with 300 miles on an old Harley and then 320 home in an old truck.
Another cause for head lights going off & on is the high & low beam switch.
Plug the head light switch itself has a built in over load relay. As yrs. passed and many of these trucks had a c/o campers and added a trailer really would over work the head light switch.
I'm on my 3 switch sense 1978 but now don't have a boat for towing or have a c/o camper on my rig any more so the switch should last long after, I'm going..
Orich
I'll get the relays wired up this weekend hopefully and then try the switch again. Thanks for the help everyone. I will get a thread going with some pics on the new truck soon.
Decent. Definitely not big. I play around in the stock market too... In anticipation of a mid-life crisis... it's a toss up between a Ferrari F355 Spyder and a Ferrari 360 Spyder. My license plate might be 4REGAZM.
Decent. Definitely not big. I play around in the stock market too... In anticipation of a mid-life crisis... it's a toss up between a Ferrari F355 Spyder and a Ferrari 360 Spyder. My license plate might be 4REGAZM.
Relays are definitely an improvement though there is no workaround for good solid electrical connections and grounding especially. If there is a problem with the lighting then the ignition, charging system, and accessories are being starved for current as well. Address the underlying first.
Relays are definitely an improvement though there is no workaround for good solid electrical connections and grounding especially. If there is a problem with the lighting then the ignition, charging system, and accessories are being starved for current as well. Address the underlying first.
That is good advice. There are lots of wires hanging under the dash from various add ons and such. So I got the relays in and the headlights wired up and now have a switch that stays cool and works. Next is to track down all these wires and spend some time cleaning up connections and making things right again.