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After reading a description of how to remove a power steering pump from above in an old post here, I decided to give it a go rather than take it to the stealership. What a mistake.
I've removed the:
battery
battery platform
air filter
cold side CAC
both radiator hoses and the bolts holding the radiator in
fan shroud
3 of 4 bolts on PSP
one PSP fluid line
all the bolts holding the inner fan shroud (?)to the block - the bottom two broke the fan shroud plastic coming off.
and I still can't get the PSP off. The fourth bolt is hidden behind the second fluid line, which is too close to the pully to get a wrench on, and the inner fan shroud is too close to the pully to get the pully puller on it.
So, I'm trying to take the inner shroud off. Saw a YouTube of a guy putting a long extension into a hole on the water pump pully and using a big crescent to loosen the huge nut holding the fan clutch on, but so far, I haven't been able to get it to budge. Does that nut turn the opposite way?
So, where did I screw up? It probably comes out from the bottom easier on 2wd trucks, but this 4x4 looked to crowded to pull it out. What's it take to either get the pully off with the inner fan shroud still on, or get the fourth bolt off without removing the fluid line?
The stator (the "inner fan shroud") is held in with four 15mm bolts, two into the intake, two from underneath. He removes the fan stator and fan using an air hammer. Starts on fan clutch removal around 3:15:
Edit: I linked to the radiator video first, but that only shows the fan shroud removal. 3:15 in Evan's video is where he removes the fan clutch with an air hammer.
I went super hi-tech with a 1 7/8" crowfoot and a breaker bar, with a 24" 3/8" extension into the water pump:
It is easier to get to from the bottom but not by much you will still be in for a adventure.
That line and bolt are going to be difficult. From the bottom with a thin open end wrench you can useually loosen it a 1/4 turn at a time.
You can get the pulley of with the puller but it is a trip. You can just barely fit an impact in the shroud with the handle turned sideways faceing into the fan. Use a short socket and you will have to work the gun backwards pressing the trigger with your thumb. The shorter bodied gun you have the better.
The clutch fan the chain parts stores have a loaner program you can get the special wrenches from but it can still be a bear. Deposit will useually equal the cost of the tool but you get it back when you return the tool unbroken. Just be shure they give you the one fits a 6.0 ford there are several differen ones.
It is easier to get to from the bottom but not by much you will still be in for a adventure.
Well, after relieving my frustrations with that post, I went back at it and managed to get the stator pushed back enough to get the pully puller in.
So, I got everything apart. Putting the new pump in was a trip - there's a guide on the pump and one on the block on separate bolt holes that wouldn't just slide into their respective holes and made the pump bind up as I tried to bolt it up - working two bolts from underneath and two from up top. Had to work all four bolts up a little at a time evenly to get it seat. Then, I had to take one bolt back out, install the high pressure line and retaining clip that uses that bolt. Finally, use the pully tool to install the pully on the new pump. Last, the freaking clamp on the low pressure line would not go back on - it was hell to get that line off as well, ditto for the radiator hose at the water pump, same kind of clamp. Got the radiator hose back on, but had to go buy a screw clamp for the PS line.
Any way, got it all buttoned back up, and....it made no difference on my steering. It did affect my brakes - I can feel some hydraulic pressure in the pedal now, but they still don't work right. Gotta push real hard on them to stop the truck.
So, I'm stumped. The fluid in the reservoir doesn't even seem to move, like the pump isn't sucking it in. I accidentally overfilled it, but figured some would go into the lines when I worked the steering and brakes. Couldn't work the steering unless the truck was rolling, so I drove around a bit. Got back and the same amount of fluid in the reservoir.
The lines don't seem to be crimped anywhere. I guess the hydrobooster could be restricted?
Guess it's off to the stealership after all, but at least they won't hit me for a new PSP.
IMHO, this combo brakes/PSP system is overly complex. I understand brakes, and I understand power steering on every car I've ever had. When the PS went out, you just bought a new pump and back on the road. But not on our trucks....smh
A Diesel does not make vacuum like a gas engine does.
Where are you going to get power brakes from without it?
Dry Vacuum pumps driven by the engine fail and take up more
space that is just not available. Electric ones just don't have the
output that is needed.
And the part about it being complex is not there. It's quite simple.
Take some time to look at it and then look at the need to add a
new device to the serpentine belt drive group. That WOULD make
things more complex.
Maybe the 2wd is different but I took mine out from underneath. Had to cut a wrench to get it in there but was able to do it. I took the air filter and turbo hose out. It was fairly easy just make sure you bleed the brakes and PS. With the truck off and lifted rotate the steering wheel back and forth 30-40 time lock to lock while pumping the breaks... good luck
....it made no difference on my steering. It did affect my brakes
What are the steering or brake issues you are/were having? I don't see any details on that. Are you having brake issues or steering issues? both?
Also, for future reference an easy way to remember fan clutch threads is whichever way the fan rotates with the engine running will be the direction the fan clutch screws onto the pump.
KD Tools makes a nice fan clutch tool kit (KDT 3950), again for future reference. I have one and it works fine; about 50 bucks. To me, inserting a long socket extension into the holes of the pulley to counter the wrench will only wallow out the holes and deform the pulley. If it's an emergency, fine, but I would be a little irritated if I paid a mechanic and he used this technique.
With the hydrobooster it takes almost 3 times as long to bleed the power steering.
You first have to bleed the input line at the booster then the booster and then the return back to the pump then bleed the pump and steering sector as normal.
You will useually have to refill the resivoir during bleeding.
