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This wouldn't be the first time a pump is bad out of the box from a retail auto parts store. I prefer to get the Ford dealer brand as I've experienced what QC Ford requires from their Motorcraft suppliers.
A steering box that internally is shredding will destroy a good pump. There was a thread recently here where the member had that happen.
As far as the dealers service department the test equipment is used to first check the pump output. If it's not pumping correctly they can't test anything upstream.
This isn't a highly complex system compared to a brake vacuum boosted vehicle. The divergence is that the pump output first goes to the hydrobooster control unit. Without braking it's a pass through. When you brake a percentage of the pressurized flow is diverted to brake actuation while the rest continues to the steering box as it normally would. Fluid that goes through the steering box to routed to a cooler and then goes to the reservoir once chilled. The fluid that was diverted in the hydrobooster for brake actuation is released to the reservoir when the brake is released. Otherwise there is no flow out of that port.
If there is a possibility that the steering box is shedding harmful debris, then the Magnefine filter can be spliced into the return line from the cooler to the reservoir to protect a new pump. A filter in the line between the hydrobooster and reservoir only filters when the brakes are released so it doesn't clean much fluid all that often.
But don't forget that a filter in the line can clog with
what your filtering out. So you sort of need to keep
an eye on it. You want to catch it before you start blocking
too much of the flow or you over heat the pump by
working it harder that normal.
But don't forget that a filter in the line can clog with
what your filtering out. So you sort of need to keep
an eye on it. You want to catch it before you start blocking
too much of the flow or you over heat the pump by
working it harder that normal.
Sean
The R038M is designed for transmissions. Odds of plugging that in the ps system is slim to none. I did however change it on an annual basis.
I think so wildman. In the other post I believe he said once he found the cap and removed and retested it started working fine.
Sorry, guys. I've prolly divied this into too many threads. I'm actually just about to go start it up. Finished putting it all back together and I'm draining the coolant right now (doing a flush at the same time as this PS work. Drinking a glass of tea then headed out to fill it up, jack the front wheels, and crank it.
We'll see if that's the problem.
For the record, I may have pulled another bonehead stunt. The new pump came with a little plastic gasket for the pressure line. It seemed to just go on the very end of the fitting so that's how I installed it.
To be prepared, before this reinstall, I bought new fluid lines in case I found one to be restricted (they're not, so I"m going to return the new ones and get my $300 back). Looking at the new hose, that plastic gasket is pushed down the fitting, past the threads.
Didn't notice that until I'd already removed the old line from the pump. When I go to reinstall, I can't find that plastic gasket. What are the chances that it somehow sucked inside the pump where it's about to screw up something? I used the one off the new hose (hope they don't notice $300 was outrageous anyway, as was the $40 fuel pump cap.)
Cross your fingers that it just fell off the end of the fitting, which would be easy, and I don't see it.
....... To be prepared, before this reinstall, I bought new fluid lines in case I found one to be restricted (they're not, so I"m going to return the new ones and get my $300 back). Looking at the new hose, that plastic gasket is pushed down the fitting, past the threads.
Didn't notice that until I'd already removed the old line from the pump. When I go to reinstall, I can't find that plastic gasket. What are the chances that it somehow sucked inside the pump where it's about to screw up something? I used the one off the new hose (hope they don't notice $300 was outrageous anyway, as was the $40 fuel pump cap.)
Cross your fingers that it just fell off the end of the fitting, which would be easy, and I don't see it.
So now after getting the dealership to eat the tech's time for a correct diagnosis that the pump wasn't working because of your mistake, you're going to screw the next guy who buys that hose and puts it on his vehicle? A new meaning for paying it forward.
The o-ring is a few dollars and I've had parts counter guys give me them without charge.
So now after getting the dealership to eat the tech's time for a correct diagnosis that the pump wasn't working because of your mistake, you're going to screw the next guy who buys that hose and puts it on his vehicle? A new meaning for paying it forward.
The o-ring is a few dollars and I've had parts counter guys give me them without charge.
That's certainly one way to look at it. But to be clear, the tech did not diagnose that I had made a mistake. He didn't diagnose anything. The pump wasn't working so he couldn't have performed any of the tests to diagnose anything. And actually, that was his "diagnosis" - that he couldn't tell me if any of the parts were good or bad, including the pump. But, he did "recommend" that I get about $2000 worth of work done, which was basically a "replacing all the parts will surely fix it" diagnosis.
So, what do you think - if I had approved that work, and in taking the bad pump off, the tech had seen that cap, do you think he would have "paid it forward" by calling me to say I didn't need to spend the $2000?
If my regular mechanic in Dallas were not on vacation and I could have taken it to him, do you think he would have "recommended" that I replace all the parts for $2000 without having a clue what was wrong with it? I know he would have told me about the plastic cap when he found it.
But, for the record, I have already stated in this thread or the other one I started on this topic that I planned to go back to the dealership and give the service writer and tech some cash for wasting their time. So, really, your complaint is that I stole a small plastic washer off a hose, when any part you have to buy from a Ford dealership costs 3x what it's worth.
Well, you nailed me. Guilty as charged. I'll let people who know you better break the windows in that glass house you call home.
I'm hoping not. I've put about 50 miles on it down and it drives like a dream. I know all the performance guys hate it, but I'm glad I found a stock exhaust to put back on it. Sounds nice and quiet.
Apparently the little plastic line washer I couldn't find didn't get sucked up in the pump. Of course, with that plastic cap on the input, I don't guess there was a lot of suction going on.
As soon as I fired it up, the steering wheel worked great. Had to look out the window to make sure the wheels were actually turning it was so easy. I rolled it back and forth a dozen times or so for good measure, and pumped the brakes a bunch as well, even though they, too, felt good. And sure enough, perfect when I drove.
Just a few cosmetic parts and this truck will grade out above average. It's pretty clear whoever it was stolen from took good care of it.
How can I tell if this truck has been tuned? I can see where he had something mounted on the dash left of the steering wheel, and there's an ethernet-like cable that went to something hanging off the rearview.
And how exactly do I tell whether the EGR cooler has been deleted or bypassed? The valve is still plugged in and there's no codes being thrown, but the tune could have cleared that. It would make sense that he might have done that when he went in with the arp bolts. What else might someone who was investing in arp bolts go ahead and do? I assume the exhaust that got stolen was a performance pipe. The air filter was stock. It's got aftermarket shocks - I guess it's lifted a little higher?
Having a helluva time finding a right-side running board to matdh the good left one. Will prolly have to buy a matched set.
Prolly more for the Super Duty forum, but has anyone had any experience with the aftermarket fiberglass dually fenders? They're cheaper than the dismantlers, but they disclaim that the fender might not be a perfect fit. Just wonder how much extra time it'd cost me vs. buying a recycled.
$300 was outrageous anyway, as was the $40 fuel pump cap.)
