Like I said check the plumbing routing from the PO to see if the valving is
backwards so that you are turning against the power assist. That would
back pressure the pump heat things up.

Anytime I have a problem and I know some other person had been
in there I always recheck there work even if it seems like no mistake
could of been made. Never assume anything. It can and has happened.
Even to the point where I don't take any offense when having problems
and have someone help me. If face I feel better if they do recheck my work.

Sean

 

That would be great. Leave out that one that's under the pressure line? The pump is just hanging on the side of the block, so if 3 bolts will hold it, works for me. Thx. I have a feeling the dealer is going to come back with some crazy labor estimate for replacing the pump, so I'll prolly refuse and do it myself again, and this'll make it a lot easier.

 

That's my thoughts - IIRC, the symptom of a bad steering gear are a difference in assist effort turning one way versus the other, or if it's binding, extreme effort required and/or inconsistent effort across the turn. The truck seems to turn smoothly in both directions, it's just got no assist. It drives just like a car without power steering or power brakes, if any of you youngsters have ever driven a car w/o PS.

And the Ford tech (per the Service Writer) noted the same thing I did - when you look at the pump while the engine is running, It seems to be spinning easily, almost too easily, like it's under no load.


I think it is either bad out of the box or there is a hellacious restriction in the lines or the hydroboost that is blocking all fluid movement.

Is it not possible to flush the system without the pump working? Needs to be flushed anyway, and that may be the fix.

 

OK, I'll check when I get the truck back home. But there is no sign that any of the components have ever been worked on previously, other than the PO adding fluid.

 

I found an OLD slideshow on how the control valve works.
Don't laugh it's just really OLD!

EDIT #1
I'll edit and post more as I find them.


Sean

 

Heard back from the stealership - $865 to replace a PSP, or $730 in labor. That's pretty crazy. Now that I've done it once, I bet I can have it on and off in 4 hours.

Guess that means I'm hosed. Will just have to pay them $250 for their worthless diagnosis - "your pump isn't working and the other parts might be bad." Like I didn't already know that.

 

That's exact reason I avoid most shops

 

Shout out to Sterling McCall Ford in Houston. After getting their second estimate for just the PSP replacement, I went up there today to tell them I wouldn't be having that work done, and to see if they would either reduce the diagnosis fee, since they couldn't diagnosis it, or let me apply that credit to some work that would be worth it to me. They agreed to waive the charges. So, I got my truck back.

Now, my plan is to, first, check the hoses to see if there is a restriction. I bought new ones just in case (the dealer ended up getting $300 from me for those). If no, then I'll get another PSP.

Following y'all's advice to forget about the 4th bolt makes that job a whole lot easier.

 

When I went to buy my excursion the small town dealer put a new steering gear box on and didn't put any fluid in or check it. Once they got it back in the shop they tried adding fluid, bleeding it out and then tried a new pump. Apparently the pump they got from advance was the wrong one because one of the was positioned different and that one didn't work either. So, the next day they got another one and it had the correct position and worked awesome right away. Oh, the symptom with the incorrect one was hard steering and braking unless rpms raised to build pressure. Sound likes it's just a bad pump. A crows foot works best to remove the high pressure line the able to remove the bolt and change the pulley off the truck. Make sure to use correct fluid also. Good luck.

 

OK, thanks.

 

Here is a Youtube video on testing with an analyzer.



Sean

 

Once you are done and have everything working properly I highly recommend that you install a #R038M Magnefine filter in the return line from the booster to the pump. Besides a filter it also has a magnet to catch any minute metal particles. Had one on my 05 and it kept the fluid priistine looking. You should still do a flush every two years when you do the brake fluid flush. JMHO. Good luck.

 

Took the plumbing off today and had new hoses there to compare. I don't see how they could have been connected wrong at the hydroboost, the fittings only match up one way. At the gear box, they didn't appear to have ever been removed before, or at least not in many miles. I assume that's something one would notice pretty quickly, so I expect they're right as well.

I was able to blow through the two pressure lines and didn't see any soda straw or other gunk come out. The feed from the reservoir isn't clogged and the return line from the cooler flows. So, I'm back to it being one of the three main components.

I'm kinda stuck because, just like the dealership, all the tests require the pump to be outputting something, and this one doesn't seem to be, even though it's brand new. So, I guess I gotta replace it again to see if that fixes it, just to be able to rule that out.

I'm hoping that since I just put this on and the last turns on the bolts and fittings I did by hand with a wrench, that they will come off a whole lot easier than the first time. If so, I can take the pressure line and fourth bolt off without taking off the pully, which means no shroud, maybe no radiator hoses.

Worse case scenario, I get it off and it won't come out of the hole, even with the shroud and hoses off, so I gotta bolt it back up, pull the pully, and take it off again. That would be my luck. It definitely won't come out the bottom of this 4x4 without taking some steering linkage apart.

 

Good advice. Thank you, sir.

Honestly, I'm pretty sure I'm going to sell this truck. It's way to nice for what I need. I can sell it and get the truck I need with the profit I'll make and have my original money back.

 

That filter is less than 20 bucks. I'd do it just in case you keep the truck longer than you think. JMHO.