I used bar and chain oil for rust prevention. If you have a compressor, $15 for the spray gun from Monstaliner and $7-$10 a gallon for oil and that is more than enough to do a CCLB.

Here is my post on undercoating my F250: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14808259

Here is one on my Ranger: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14684600
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14709807


The F250 has Ziebart undercoat that I get touched up yearly. I did learn that the undercoat alone will not stop the road salt. The bar and chain oil made a world of difference this year!!! It is the same idea as fluid film.... but the difference is it is cheaper and probably a little more hazardous to the environment. Oil use to be the way to go for protection. Also, invest in a set of wheel well liners. They were a bitch to install, but the protection is worth every penny.

The Ranger has Monstaliner under the floor boards for protection and the frame and bed cross members are painted with Chassis Saver. These are both fantastic products, but even the chassis saver will not hold up to the rust completely. This is where the extra protection from the oil triumphed again.

As for dealing with your existing rust... Its either going to be a big bill at the body shop, or spend that money on a decent MIG like a Hobart 140 and school yourself on panel replacement and bondo. There is a lot to learn there, but you can save a crap load of cash.

Other than that, look for craiglsist specials. You may be able to find a rust free truck that was rear ended or the diesel blew up and get it for a steal! Swap the bodies, part out the rest of the truck and if you price it right, you could do it for free or maybe even make a few $$$.

Hope this helps! Good luck

 

Yeah I love the sound of mine! I got the super 10 and a small cat so it's loud. I see your from michigan also. Where abouts?

 

I'm around the Holly area. You?

 

How will the 2014 bed look on the older style? Aren't the wheel well flares bigger?

Kind of interested as have been looking for a newer bed to swap

 

The body line is the same,the flair is different, the gas door is square and you may need a longer filler tube for gas. It's not bad looking and you can cover it with Bushwhacker flairs if need be. You can always put new full bed sides on your box but look at your bed supports and make sure they are good or its more costly if you have to do both.

 

The whole bed is too far gone, I think. I don't do body work so the fender or bed side would cost a bit to get replaced (and being in NY - where could I even find one not rusty) ... the bed supports are gone and there's a hole in the floor of the bed.

If I could find a bed side, I could probably hoist it up and weld on new bed supports ... potentially. The hold could easily be fixed with a piece of scrap metal.

Attachment 290270

Attachment 290271

Don't stand here
[img[https://i.imgur.com/Js877U0.jpg[/img]

annnnnnnd the fender:
Attachment 290272

 

Yeah I would get a new box for sure!!

 

Yeah. It's pretty rough.

I'm going to be taking a trailer down south a bit with the Focus to buy some rust free doors from a pick and pull for my Cherokee. They had a meeting with a bit of a boulder. I will have to see if I can buy a truck bed and affix it to the trailer.

 

For what rust free beds cost, you may be able to buy a whole truck to get parts from

 

This is NY. Unfortunately, everything else is just as bad. With only 58000 .... kind of want to keep it around as long as possible haha. Or just make and weld in new supports ,deal with the rotted wheel well and patch the floor.

The frame might break if I try to tow something, though.

 

If you Get a old style bed then try to get a 2010 bed or close to that then no matter where you get it, remove the foam at the rear of the wheel well on both sides and then Rhino line the hek out of it underneath, bed supports and all!! It is a waste of time and money to do patch panels on these beds as when you fix one spot then another pops up.