cam install
cam install
I have a 94 f150, I'm thinking about picking up a computer friendly cam to see if that will wake my engine up a little but I would like to know what I'd be getting myself into on the installation. I've build modular engines before so I know my way around the shop and how to make things work, but I've never done anything with a pushrod engine.
With a mild cam, I'd obviously swap out the gears but realistically, is this something I could do in my driveway in an afternoon or should I just keep on driving it and now spend the money. It's my DD so I can't afford the downtime if it's more involved.
With a mild cam, I'd obviously swap out the gears but realistically, is this something I could do in my driveway in an afternoon or should I just keep on driving it and now spend the money. It's my DD so I can't afford the downtime if it's more involved.
I have a 94 f150, I'm thinking about picking up a computer friendly cam to see if that will wake my engine up a little but I would like to know what I'd be getting myself into on the installation. I've build modular engines before so I know my way around the shop and how to make things work, but I've never done anything with a pushrod engine.
With a mild cam, I'd obviously swap out the gears but realistically, is this something I could do in my driveway in an afternoon or should I just keep on driving it and now spend the money. It's my DD so I can't afford the downtime if it's more involved.
With a mild cam, I'd obviously swap out the gears but realistically, is this something I could do in my driveway in an afternoon or should I just keep on driving it and now spend the money. It's my DD so I can't afford the downtime if it's more involved.
The issue with a cam removal/installation with the 300 is that the cam is on the lower right of the engine. It's also really long. Both of these make it rather tedious to remove.
You can't just remove the grill, since a direct shot removal would hit the radiator support and the bumper.

You have to completely remove the engine from the vehicle, or at least disconnect the mounts and move the engine enough to move it around to point the cam out of the hole you've made by removing the front grill.
Secondly, it's best to remove the oil pan (which again is a chore) so you can reach up and guide the old cam out and the new cam in without nicking the cam bearings by dragging a lobe over them.
Overall, much easier to do with the engine removed from the vehicle. I did one in-vehicle and I don't think I'd ever go that route again.
If you do, the push rods don't really make much of a difference.
Remove the valve cover and push rod cover.
Remove the rocker arms.
Pull the push rods out.
Pull the lifters out and throw them away.

Remove old cam / reinstall new cam (with lobes generously coated in break-in lube.)
Install NEW lifters with the bottom generously coated in break-in lube.
Reinstall push rods.
Reinstall rocker arms.
Reinstall valve cover / push rod cover (new gaskets recommended).
Follow the break-in procedure to the T.
You can't just remove the grill, since a direct shot removal would hit the radiator support and the bumper.

You have to completely remove the engine from the vehicle, or at least disconnect the mounts and move the engine enough to move it around to point the cam out of the hole you've made by removing the front grill.
Secondly, it's best to remove the oil pan (which again is a chore) so you can reach up and guide the old cam out and the new cam in without nicking the cam bearings by dragging a lobe over them.
Overall, much easier to do with the engine removed from the vehicle. I did one in-vehicle and I don't think I'd ever go that route again.
If you do, the push rods don't really make much of a difference.
Remove the valve cover and push rod cover.
Remove the rocker arms.
Pull the push rods out.
Pull the lifters out and throw them away.

Remove old cam / reinstall new cam (with lobes generously coated in break-in lube.)
Install NEW lifters with the bottom generously coated in break-in lube.
Reinstall push rods.
Reinstall rocker arms.
Reinstall valve cover / push rod cover (new gaskets recommended).
Follow the break-in procedure to the T.
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