Hello again, I'm wandering if I can accually do the camshaft on a 82 302. Ive never done it before, and my uncle did one 20+ years ago. Hes not able to help me, but he can walk me through it or sit beside me (pinched nerve in knee)

Big questions are... Do I NEED to pull the motor. its in a 82 f150, with headers and duel exhaust. I know ill be removing the radiator, mabey even the grill, but what else, if anything, can I pull in order to avoid motor pullage?

What needs to be removed from the engine that wont allready be off during a carb and intake swap? Do I need to take out the valvetrain to do it? I have no idea yet, but ill be accumulating some engine books this spring, in hopes to do it during the summer...

What else do I need to do, that isnt allready off in a carb/intake swap?

Thanks alot, I appreciate it
~Nate

 

How many miles on the engine?

 

remove the valve covers ,remove the intake manifold the face of the engine including timing chain cover and the radaitor distributer cap & wires
when you have everything removed loosen the rocker arms so you can remove the push rods keep in order so you can put them back where you took them out from remove the lifters and finnaly the camshaft
re install the cam , lifters etc. while your at it you may as well change your timing chain and gears go with a double roller set

it's not that difficult
i used to be able to bring my 79 f100 with a 351w into the shop rip it down change the cam and lifters put it all back together by myself and be back out on the road in about 5 hours

 

Further to the comments of Dave-74.
If you are changing the cam, replace the timing parts as well, new timing gears or chain (whatever is in your spefic engine). Replace the lifters, and push rods, don't assume they are good, they aren't. Check the rocker arms for wear and replace any that are out of shape.

When removing the cam BE CAREFULL you must GUIDE it out of the engine. Don't let the lobes bang against the cam bearings a cam install tool is a big help. U can also us wire to support the cam while you slowly move it out. Take your time you are not a NASCAR pit crew on race day!

When installing the cam. Again--don't bang the bearings go slow and use CARE. Coat the new cam with assembly lube and don't be stingy with the lube. Lube the bearing surfaces and the lobes or the cam.

Line up timing gears/chain per specs, and button up the engine front end.

Use assembly lube on your new lifters. Good idea, soak the lifters in clean oil so they are pre-lubed before dropping in the holes. Tighten all rockers per specs you can rotate the engine a little at a time to do this. Let the lifters bleed out as you work on each one. Don't rush.

Put in NEW oil and filter.

Leave rocker arm covers loose for start up so you can adjust any rockers that need it after first engine start.

Set the engine idle speed for FIRST startup to Cam Mfgr specs (1500 or so RPM) run the engine at that speed per cam mfgr specs to break in the cam.

Close up the rocker covers. After cam is broken in (as per cam mfgr specs) change oil and filter.

Enjoy your good work!

 

ok, here goes. Little history on the truck... its an 82 f150 that my grampa has owned since 90 (i think). It was his hunting/fishing truck, and hes no longer able to do either... Hes a hell of a grampa, an awesome person, but has had low oxygen levals for a while, and his once sharp mental state is declinging... The plan (a few months ago) is for me to get it after i get my lisance, but I really dont know for sure, as he may have forgotten with his mental state. If I dont "get" the truck, i am still deadset on getting an 80-86 f150... If id buy one, it be 302, 2wd, and stick... rare i know, but theres gotta be one somewhere. I could also buy it from him, but who knows?

My father, before he passed away, apparently rebuilt either the heads, or the entire engine... At which point, he put on headers, dual exhaust, and "muffelers" which are glass packed, and sound cool... Loud above 3kish, but ok if your not on it...



If i do get it, I will immediatly install a tach, oil pressure gage, and relocate the vaccume gage onto the A piller (love it or hate it, its going on there) Followed by a compression check, and mabey a leakdown... Ill be getting some books in soon, so ill read up on all i can

75Ford, its got about 140k, and about 8 years ago was either rebuilt compleatly, or just the heads.

Dave, whats wrong with the napa replacement timing chain? I plan on running this rig throughout high school, and ill see what gas prices do during collage. but by no means will i keep it another 24 years.

Pacam, I think i get new lifters with the kit im getting, where do you get the pushrods and rockers? If its allready apart, are rockers too expensive to replace on a whim? What radio are the stock ones on an 82 302, and how do you check if they bad?

Are you seriously telling me to leave the valve covers off for the first startup??? Wont that sling a crapload of oil everywhere, and risk dirt/debris getting into it? Please explain please.

How do you let the lifters bleed out?


Thanks alot for helping this idiot out, i will hopefully be doing the swap this summer, god willing and sutch... It would help everybody out if I get and read all the engine books i can find, and check the condition of the engine... Offhand, does anybody know what kind of oil pressure and compression PSI i should be getting?

Thanks alot
~Nate

 

The reason I asked on the mileage of the engine. One will need to take in to consideration if the engine has High mileage and what type of wear it has. Will have to come to the sometype of conclusion to what you want done to the engine, If you plan on using the truck for 2 to 4 years, then swapping out the cam might be sufficient, if you plan on keeping the truck for say 10 years, you might consider investing a few extra dollars and going with a complete engine rebuild.
Again, as you have mentioned, the engine currently might have an engine rebuild. Usually a rebuilt engine will have a very clean engine parts, suchas clean oil pan, engine block, timing cover, and etc... Check the freeze plugs, and seal on engine block and see if they look like they have been replaced. Usually a engine rebuild will have what I mentioned above.
A engine a compression test, will also help you gauge the condition of the internals of your engine. Engine compression in the 110 psi to 130 psi is normal. An engine compression test should not have any one cylinder variate more than 10 percent of each other.

 

the double sprocket t-chain and gears hold up alot better than the single ones do and they cost about the same

 

Nate;
You missunderstood. Leave off means don't bolt them up. You are not going to spray oil all over the place. With new lifters you will have a nice smooth flow of oil down the rocker and back into the engine. The purpose of leaving the cover "off" is so you can adjust any rocker that may need a final setting. Unless you are working in some foul place you ain't going to get crap in you engine with the valve covers off. Just be careful. By the way, a little oil running on the floor is what automotive work is all about. That is why they make engine solvents and grease sweep. No oil---no fun.

Regarding the bleed out. I like to soak new lifters in oil while putting the engine back together. Crane cams and others say it is not needed. They like you to spin the oil pump and prelube that way. That is fine but a soak is the way I was taught and the soak in COMBO with a pre-lube will ensure that the cam lasts for years.
With oil in the lifter from the soak all you need do is note that the push rod has in fact compressed the lifter piston. You can normally see that happen especially if you mark the push rod and use a straight edge to verify the mark after adjusting the valve. To be sure all you need to do is tighten each rocker, wait a few minutes for bleed out and check the rockers again to see if there is more adjustment needed (this assumes hydraulic lifters). Then rotate the engine to the next set or rockers and repeat.
With the valve covers "off" when the engine is started, any loose rocker can be quickly tightened. Got it??

You asked about rockers. A visual inspection will show you if they are worn. Look over each one and check for enlongated holes, worn surfaces and the like. Replace those that are worn. You can buy push rods at any good auto parts store same with replacement rockers. Follow the cam mfgr suggestions regarding oversize pushrods.

Camshaft upgrades/replacements generally are a very good ROI. It is not hard work, just take your time and have fun.

 

You can place the timing gear, tighten snuggly the bolts (not to tight), on the new cam, it will help, in handling and will assist you, when installing the new cam. as Pacam mentioned.
_______
Buck