Cam questions
I've been looking around here, and Typ4's torque cam caught my eye - it sounds like it will help.
Now, before I bite the bullet and buy one, I've got a couple of questions:
1. Our engines only have one cam, correct?
2. What does it take to replace the cam?
Where is the cam(is it directly under the IP?)
How much do I need to remove, and what should I be thinking about replacing at the same time?
Can I leave the engine in the truck, only removing the radiators and front plastic, allowing access to the whole front?
Thanks, guys.
2) Yes, you can remove and install a cam without removing the engine. I have not done it, but the steps to do so are in the Haynes Diesel Tech Book.
Haynes Diesel Tech Book Engine Repair Manual: General Motors & Ford (Haynes Techbooks):Amazon:Books
If you don't have this book, I suggest you buy it if you plan to do this job, it will be money well spent. In a nut shell, the IP, injector lines, valve covers and valley pan need to come off. Then the rocker arms, push rods and lifters need to come out. The grill, radiator, and front components of the engine must be removed so that the cam shaft is clear to come out.
This is a fairly invasive procedure. It is not an afternoon job, and you might want to consider pulling the engine and rebuilding or "freshening it up"/partial rebuild, depending on how many miles are on it etc., consider that you will be putting your new cam on old cam bearings, as those must be pressed in at a machine shop, with the block stripped. Not a big deal if you have a low mileage engine, but something to evaluate. Also, it is considered "poor form" to not match a new cam with new lifters. Hydraulic rollers such as ours are fairly forgiving, but a set of worn flat bottom lifters can destroy a new cam within a few cranks of an engine with conventional lifters. Again, I don't know what shape your engine is in, or what your long term goals are for this build/upgrade, but to do the job "right" you should use new lifters (about $150 for the set). You will also be needing new gaskets for everything you remove from the engine. Check with Russ, but I believe you are good to use stock valve springs with the torque cam. When I bought the more aggressive J2 cam grind from NMB2, he packaged it with upgraded valve springs. Although I have decided against using the J2, I will probably use the stiffer springs with the R&D stage 1 cam. If Russ recommends upgraded springs, you will then be looking at pulling the heads ( gaskets ~$100), and deciding if you want to risk re-using the head bolts, buying new head bolts (better) or studs (best), but parts start adding up fast. Sorry to ramble, just trying to help you think of things...



