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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:02 PM
  #16  
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Just resurrecting an old thread here, but we just started carrying the Leece Neville type 230 amp alternator. These alternators don't come with a pulley natively, so I ran the calculations for what the bearings could handle in the sweet spot for our motors and came up with a smaller diameter pulley option.

With the overdrive pulley, the unit does 170 amps at hot idle, bolts right in, comes with a one year warranty, is commonly used in commercial big rig applications, and runs $374.99 with the aforementioned pulley ($349.99 without).

Leece Neville type 230 amp alternator

 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 12:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com
Just resurrecting an old thread here, but we just started carrying the Leece Neville type 230 amp alternator. These alternators don't come with a pulley natively, so I ran the calculations for what the bearings could handle in the sweet spot for our motors and came up with a smaller diameter pulley option.

With the overdrive pulley, the unit does 170 amps at hot idle, bolts right in, comes with a one year warranty, is commonly used in commercial big rig applications, and runs $374.99 with the aforementioned pulley ($349.99 without).

Leece Neville type 230 amp alternator

Thanks for the info. Ed -- couple of questions: does the stock wiring need to be upgraded with this Alt? And: is there anything special about the pulley? I already have a 58mm one on my factory Ford 140A, so am wondering if it would work without mods on the LN unit...
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 01:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Thanks for the info. Ed -- couple of questions: does the stock wiring need to be upgraded with this Alt? And: is there anything special about the pulley? I already have a 58mm one on my factory Ford 140A, so am wondering if it would work without mods on the LN unit...
Hey Dan - Yes, the manufacturer does STRONGLY recommend upgrading the stock wiring. Our wiring kit options would work fine or you can make your own. There is no reason why you shouldn't be able to just transfer the pulley from your current 140a unit over. Just please make CERTAIN to get that puppy on there as tightly as it should be. 70-80 foot pounds is what you're after.

 
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #19  
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Ed - you thinking about adding Jack's "driver's side block to frame" ground in your complete kit?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2019 | 07:57 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
I have the Mechman S Series 240 amp. Possibly around $399.

Josh
How is that Mechman alt holding up these days?
 
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Old Aug 10, 2019 | 10:35 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by texastech_diesel
Ed - you thinking about adding Jack's "driver's side block to frame" ground in your complete kit?
He already did.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 11:49 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
He already did.
We added that cable to our kit a few years ago (time flies, so couldn't actually tell you when). It's now called our 'deluxe kit' instead of a 'complete kit' (it's not like we are re-wiring the tail lights)- and also are about to add in a replacement and beefier cable to replace the braided one from Ford by the passenger side door. Some talk about adding all sorts of grounds from the trans to the frame, too, but we aren't fans of promoting a ground path through the trans.

We also now can get anyone that asks for them alternators from:
* the OEM
* A/C Delco
* Bosch
* Mechman
* Leece Neville
* Quick Start
* Mean Green
* Singer
* DC Power

and likely a few others that I mentally missing at this point. Of these, a shout out goes out to DC Power for their two year warranty and their willingness to work on units after the warranty period expires for only the wholesale cost of the parts, with another shout out going to Leece Neville for the incredibly few (we're at *one* these days) warranty claims that we've seen on them that weren't categorically the fault of the customer.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 12:43 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Fuzzpuss
How is that Mechman alt holding up these days?
Sold the truck in January 2016 so no clue...
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 12:59 PM
  #24  
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In 2016 based on my PMs.

Why would you add a "beefer" cable at that point?

Any more from L-N on a resolution to the higher voltage set point that causes issues with the GPCM?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 01:44 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
In 2016 based on my PMs.

Why would you add a "beefer" cable at that point?

Any more from L-N on a resolution to the higher voltage set point that causes issues with the GPCM?
Perhaps I shouldn't have used the word 'beefier'. A better word choice would have been something like 'a replacement cable that isn't corrosion-prone like the OEM one'.

Sadly, nothing more from L-N, no. Ugh.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 02:01 PM
  #26  
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That's fine then Ed. I'm using marine grade 12ga. 8ga, 4ga tried.

I don't think we'll ever get any change from Pestolite...... or answer. I tried too.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 02:06 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
That's fine then Ed. I'm using marine grade 12ga. 8ga, 4ga tried.

I don't think we'll ever get any change from Pestolite...... or answer. I tried too.
I believe our's is either 10 or 8ga marine-grade - I'd have to look when I am back in the saddle tomorrow. The only real benefit of going bigger would be to get to a sturdier wire that would last longer from our testing.

Prestolite had at one point suggested migrating to a newer design of the unit, but that was seemingly ages ago and it's been all quiet on the western front.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 02:48 PM
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No, it changes the dynamic from all the other cables. 12ga structural integrity isn’t an issue.

What testing did you do?
 
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