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A lot of people are upgrading alts as the factory ones dies off, so if you've replaced with a non-OEM part, can you please post the following to the best of your ability? I'm looking specifically for info on NON-DC Power units, because they have the bling website and distribution network to push their product. I'm most interested in compiling a good reference list of interchanges from other applications and over the counter parts that are working for people.
Product name:
Part Number:
Rated/claimed Power
Hot idle output:
Max output:
Hot max output:
Warranty Period:
Price:
Other info (pigtail conversion, fitment, pulley diameter, etc):
Not all the details you asked for but it does prove to me the 3G fitment isn't a problem. Think I'm in for $160 with the pully. 58mm I believe.
Finally got my alternator install sorted out. Left the little shroud off for the pic.
New 3G case and internals bench tested just over 180a. Local shop built it for me. They did some grinding on the bottom side of the case for clearance between it and the intake manifold. Apparently it can touch there before all three mount points touch the intake. I ended up with about 0.060in clearance under there. No other clearance issues. Also (for those who remember my earlier thread) I did end up with a self exciting (one wire) set up. Not for that feature but because the regulator that goes with that option has better set-points and is stronger and they see much fewer bad ones according to the shop. Just got the proper pully installed today, it had been rolling around the floorboard for a week-lol. All looks good with the voltage on cold start, I'm staying above 12v immediately after a cold start where it dropped into low 11's with the stock 110a alt. I guess all that's left is to see how long it last .
Man, looking at that pic I see it's getting pretty dingy under the hood. Time for a little spring cleaning. Maybe paint those CAC tubes like 2006White60.
Leece Neville Replacement Alternator - Your #1 Source for Starters and Alternators - 7341N, 6E7Z10346C, GL8654, A160202, LNAVI160T2002, ZLNAVI160T2002
part 7341N
Rated 230 amps hot temperature
Hot idle 140 amps, I have seen more on mine
High idle 170 amps at 1250 RPM, with stock pulley of my 140 amp alt.
$299 US, this alternator cost me $500 CDN cause I had to pay the duty and taxes too.
I did a new piggy back 2/0 charge cable, plus a new 2/0 ground to chassis and ground to nepegative cable on passenger battery.
13.2 volts at OBD2 immediately after start up.
Charges at 14.4 volts, or 14.8 depending on load.
Obd2 reads 13.1 when charging 4 batteries. I have never measured amps when charging the extra batteries but I bet it's pretty good.
Fully charged batteries should show 12.8 volts key on engine off.
That would be 12.6-12.8 volts @ 68 degrees with nothing on. The vacuum pump, fuel pump, computers and other accessories are going to knock the voltage down.
140Amp, larger 6G housing, and a 210Amp rectifier (e.g. rectifier is oversized). Plug and play, no dealing with replacing pulleys, etc. I did install two or three shim washers but other than that nothing else.
My scanguage usually shows around 13.8v, moves up into the low 14s shortly after starting (when needing to re-charge) but drops down to the 13.8 range after the batterys are re-charged. Glowplugs bring the voltage down into the 12's but not for long.
Warranty is only a year. I've had mine for 2.5 years and been happy so far.
140Amp, larger 6G housing, and a 210Amp rectifier (e.g. rectifier is oversized). Plug and play, no dealing with replacing pulleys, etc. I did install two or three shim washers but other than that nothing else.
My scanguage usually shows around 13.8v, moves up into the low 14s shortly after starting (when needing to re-charge) but drops down to the 13.8 range after the batterys are re-charged. Glowplugs bring the voltage down into the 12's but not for long.
Warranty is only a year. I've had mine for 2.5 years and been happy so far.
Mine has a good warranty as I bought it throught international dealer. Only one year though, if I had issues, i am sure I could get it figured out. My brother sold it to me.
IMHO using a 140 6G or 130 3G with conversion plug and both alternator's using the 58 pulley is likely the best option for most uses. Nationwide warranty from a chain store and relatively low price.
Those that do short trips, multiple starts, multiple batteries, high output stereos etc will need to step up to 200 amps or more.
My own 130 3G was rated at 170 amps stock which is par for the course, they easily do 170+ with no tricks. I would assume the 140 6G is similar.
140Amp, larger 6G housing, and a 210Amp rectifier (e.g. rectifier is oversized)..
Is an "oversized" rectifier a gimic, like the 58V FICM?
It seems like it might help, especially on a 140A where the glowplug cycle on every cold start should max out the alt's output? But that's based on 8-10A per plug, up to 200A at first start from this. Any more info on GP amperage draw? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8343373
Ordering this week likely, stock 140A is having voltage sag while driving, it's hitting 13.0-13.2V now on the highway once it gets hot. Re-doing voltage drop test and checking batteries, if they test ok then the alt is getting changed.
Is an "oversized" rectifier a gimic, like the 58V FICM?
It seems like it might help, especially on a 140A where the glowplug cycle on every cold start should max out the alt's output? But that's based on 8-10A per plug, up to 200A at first start from this. Any more info on GP amperage draw? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8343373
Ordering this week likely, stock 140A is having voltage sag while driving, it's hitting 13.0-13.2V now on the highway once it gets hot. Re-doing voltage drop test and checking batteries, if they test ok then the alt is getting changed.
I have the Mechman S Series 240 amp. Possibly around $399.
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