General rust fix questions
#1
General rust fix questions
I have an 87 f250 with a few various rust spots and wanted to run down the options I'm considering and see if you guys agree, or if there is a better (i.e. more cost effective) solution
1) Front fenders have 1/4 inch of rust above chrome trim piece, rusted through - I was considering cutting out the rust, painting the edges, then installing a large bush-whacker style fender flare, so I wouldn't be replacing the rusted metal there. Do the flares need to be screwed into the fender where I'm thinking of cutting it out?
2) Passenger door has rusted through, half dollar size hole. Driver door is rusted (rough to the touch but no penetration) around the key area - My idea here is to just buy some used doors for $40 each and paint them to match.
3) Bed has some surface rust spots where the paint peeled off and the metal is fairly rough, so I'm assuming it has gone all the way through. I think I may have to bite the bullet and do some cutting/welding here. I would, however, like to hear opinions on buying complete replacement skins for the bed since the rear fenders are bubbling slightly as well.
I will try to take some pictures tonight - it's generally pretty rust free, just the few body issues I've listed. The frame and suspension look good considering the age of the rig. I have a cheap welder and limited skills, so I'm trying to avoid a lot of fabrication where possible, but I'll tackle the job if necessary. Thanks!
1) Front fenders have 1/4 inch of rust above chrome trim piece, rusted through - I was considering cutting out the rust, painting the edges, then installing a large bush-whacker style fender flare, so I wouldn't be replacing the rusted metal there. Do the flares need to be screwed into the fender where I'm thinking of cutting it out?
2) Passenger door has rusted through, half dollar size hole. Driver door is rusted (rough to the touch but no penetration) around the key area - My idea here is to just buy some used doors for $40 each and paint them to match.
3) Bed has some surface rust spots where the paint peeled off and the metal is fairly rough, so I'm assuming it has gone all the way through. I think I may have to bite the bullet and do some cutting/welding here. I would, however, like to hear opinions on buying complete replacement skins for the bed since the rear fenders are bubbling slightly as well.
I will try to take some pictures tonight - it's generally pretty rust free, just the few body issues I've listed. The frame and suspension look good considering the age of the rig. I have a cheap welder and limited skills, so I'm trying to avoid a lot of fabrication where possible, but I'll tackle the job if necessary. Thanks!
#2
#3
Thanks for the confirmation. I am running some wide 35s that stick way out and throw dirt up the sides of the truck, so I need flares regardless. If I don't end up putting on flares I'm going to go for some pizza cutter bias ply tires. Just wasn't sure if cutting out part of the fender would prevent me from properly attaching the flares.
Has anybody tried replacement skins on doors/fenders? They seem expensive, but a lot easier than patch panels.
Has anybody tried replacement skins on doors/fenders? They seem expensive, but a lot easier than patch panels.
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#7
My only insight is that I don't think there's any such thing as a used, rust-free bed. The inner fender always traps crud at the top of the rear fender so it seems like there's always rust there. It might not be through yet, and it might be repairable by removing the inner fender and then sanding and repainting the inside of the bed side (I think Brad's thread says how to glue new inner fenders in). But I think the only way to get "rust free" is to get new metal.
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since I already have a welder, I may try my hand at doing the body work on the bed I already have. Aside from a few spots, it's really not bad. If things go terribly wrong and I suck at welding, I can go for plan B. Are there any good places to look for beds, or do I just need to keep an eye out on CL and the marketplace here?
#12
Fixing rusty fenders is silly. REPLACE them. Same goes for doors.
As for a rust free bed. Look at states that does not use salt.
As for bed replacement vs repairing. It is about equal up here in the rust belt..
A GOOD SOUTHERN RUST FREE BED is going to cost 1000+. Then the body work needed and paint
Bed sides for your existing bed is going to be 900-1000 + the supplies and labor to install them. But at least when you are done, there is ZERO question that you have a rust free bed
As for a rust free bed. Look at states that does not use salt.
As for bed replacement vs repairing. It is about equal up here in the rust belt..
A GOOD SOUTHERN RUST FREE BED is going to cost 1000+. Then the body work needed and paint
Bed sides for your existing bed is going to be 900-1000 + the supplies and labor to install them. But at least when you are done, there is ZERO question that you have a rust free bed
#13
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yeah that wouldn't be worth putting into a rust bucket more than likely.if your going to head south/west for a rust free bed,spending the $ in fuel to get there and back and a trailer and then spend thousands to dump into a rusty old truck,you may as well just bring a whole rust free truck back with ya and sell your old one for what ya can.
for an old rig like that,cut out the bad,ditch the bed and replace it with a flat bed or just bondo her up to get ya by for a year or two until your ready for a new truck.
not all trucks are worth full resto's or even repairs that one would do to a good solid/newer truck.there's so many of these trucks out there.
for an old rig like that,cut out the bad,ditch the bed and replace it with a flat bed or just bondo her up to get ya by for a year or two until your ready for a new truck.
not all trucks are worth full resto's or even repairs that one would do to a good solid/newer truck.there's so many of these trucks out there.
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