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General rust fix questions

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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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General rust fix questions

I have an 87 f250 with a few various rust spots and wanted to run down the options I'm considering and see if you guys agree, or if there is a better (i.e. more cost effective) solution


1) Front fenders have 1/4 inch of rust above chrome trim piece, rusted through - I was considering cutting out the rust, painting the edges, then installing a large bush-whacker style fender flare, so I wouldn't be replacing the rusted metal there. Do the flares need to be screwed into the fender where I'm thinking of cutting it out?


2) Passenger door has rusted through, half dollar size hole. Driver door is rusted (rough to the touch but no penetration) around the key area - My idea here is to just buy some used doors for $40 each and paint them to match.


3) Bed has some surface rust spots where the paint peeled off and the metal is fairly rough, so I'm assuming it has gone all the way through. I think I may have to bite the bullet and do some cutting/welding here. I would, however, like to hear opinions on buying complete replacement skins for the bed since the rear fenders are bubbling slightly as well.


I will try to take some pictures tonight - it's generally pretty rust free, just the few body issues I've listed. The frame and suspension look good considering the age of the rig. I have a cheap welder and limited skills, so I'm trying to avoid a lot of fabrication where possible, but I'll tackle the job if necessary. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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Well, you're saying all the right stuff. All of your solutions are viable, because they either involving cutting and welding or replacement altogether. Nothing wrong with the fender flare solution, just for f sake, get tires to fill them.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 02:51 PM
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Thanks for the confirmation. I am running some wide 35s that stick way out and throw dirt up the sides of the truck, so I need flares regardless. If I don't end up putting on flares I'm going to go for some pizza cutter bias ply tires. Just wasn't sure if cutting out part of the fender would prevent me from properly attaching the flares.


Has anybody tried replacement skins on doors/fenders? They seem expensive, but a lot easier than patch panels.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 03:15 PM
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Search for DieselBrad's posts on here. He has detailed the process of bed skin replacement, with better than OEM rust resistance.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 06:02 PM
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Here's Brad's thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bedsides.html
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 06:30 AM
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Thanks, I'll read through the thread right now. What insight can you all offer on new skins vs. buying a used rust-free bed? I imagine complete beds are fairly difficult to find. Prices to expect? Opinions?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 11:43 AM
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My only insight is that I don't think there's any such thing as a used, rust-free bed. The inner fender always traps crud at the top of the rear fender so it seems like there's always rust there. It might not be through yet, and it might be repairable by removing the inner fender and then sanding and repainting the inside of the bed side (I think Brad's thread says how to glue new inner fenders in). But I think the only way to get "rust free" is to get new metal.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 11:50 AM
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Good to know. What about doors: same situation or do you think they are easier to find rust free?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 12:19 PM
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With stuff as easy to swap as doors, "better than what I have" rule applies.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 12:27 PM
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Buying new bed skins, installing them, and painting them is much more expensive than finding a clean bed, and fixing a little rust from the inner fenders. The bedskins alone are close to the cost of a good used bed. They are not that hard to find.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 12:35 PM
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since I already have a welder, I may try my hand at doing the body work on the bed I already have. Aside from a few spots, it's really not bad. If things go terribly wrong and I suck at welding, I can go for plan B. Are there any good places to look for beds, or do I just need to keep an eye out on CL and the marketplace here?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 05:08 PM
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Fixing rusty fenders is silly. REPLACE them. Same goes for doors.

As for a rust free bed. Look at states that does not use salt.

As for bed replacement vs repairing. It is about equal up here in the rust belt..
A GOOD SOUTHERN RUST FREE BED is going to cost 1000+. Then the body work needed and paint

Bed sides for your existing bed is going to be 900-1000 + the supplies and labor to install them. But at least when you are done, there is ZERO question that you have a rust free bed
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 06:50 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
yeah that wouldn't be worth putting into a rust bucket more than likely.if your going to head south/west for a rust free bed,spending the $ in fuel to get there and back and a trailer and then spend thousands to dump into a rusty old truck,you may as well just bring a whole rust free truck back with ya and sell your old one for what ya can.
for an old rig like that,cut out the bad,ditch the bed and replace it with a flat bed or just bondo her up to get ya by for a year or two until your ready for a new truck.
not all trucks are worth full resto's or even repairs that one would do to a good solid/newer truck.there's so many of these trucks out there.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 07:27 PM
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Point taken. The truck is really not that bad, just a few spots here and there. The frame and suspension are all in good shape though and I bought something for the sake of restoring it, so that's the route I'm going.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 07:33 PM
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Behind rear wheel, a bit bigger than a half dollar


Driver side door


Bed side


Bed supports


Driver door

Rocker panel, cab corners and floor are all good, front clip is good aside from very minor rust around fenders, but I'm just going to cut it out and do some flares, so not too worried about that.
 
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